So I did the clutch switch mod today and I like it. Instead of a 2 stage acceleration (1st rush = clutch engagement, 2nd rush = clutch switch contact), the acceleration is much more linear now in Normal (non-sport) mode. I don't think this switch has any effect in "sport" mode.

Here's I measure NO connectivity when the clutch switch is OUT (clutch disengaged)



Then I measure solid CONNECTIVITY when the clutch switch is IN (clutch fully engaged)



I then slip a wire in between the 2 conductors in the connector then plug the switch back in.... DONE & easily reversible.




Hope this helps the next guy who wants to do this.




/

 

 

Block off the Helmholtz resonator on the factory airbox or change to an aftermarket intake.

 

Thanks Petza.
Is there another solution without changing the original intake?

 

Blocking off the Helmhotz resonator leaves the factory airbox and plumbing intact - it just closes off that secondary offshoot pipe to the airbox. There a brand of oil bottle cap that's supposed to be a perfect fit, but I don't recall which one.

 

Can it not cause damage to the engine?
I remember that I had read before that it was not recommended but I can not find where I read.
Thanks

 

No, no damage. Every aftermarket intake also eliminates it.

 

IIRC its the Mobil 1 container lid that works, but it has to be the 5 litre jug, not the 1 litre.

 

I noticed this hesitation immediately after purchasing my 997.1 C2S MT (had about 70k miles), but only between 2000 and 3000 rpm. Felt like an awkward lurch, hesitation, fuel cutoff, etc., but only when applying light to medium throttle. When applying full throttle, sort of went away (like the car was telling me, "finally, I know what you want to do").

After upgrading the intake to aftermarket, I think the issue was minimized partly. After upgrading the exhaust with high flow cats, I haven't noticed the issue at all, at any throttle input level. I have a stock ECU. Couldn't say why this is the case, maybe the ECU automatically adjusted for the additional air flow throughout the system?

 

Thanks Petza914 and jlert
jlert, the feeling you describe is the same as the feeling I experienced...
I'm with Chrono Sport and I'm not interested in the ECU
That's why I thought there was another solution (without replacing the intake and exhaust system of my car)

 

Hello friends

The problem of hesitation has not yet been resolved.
I will soon switch my catalytic converters to 200 cell and would also like to buy an intake at Petza914's recommendation.
I've been thinking about https://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-997...r-upgrade-kit/ with the BMC filter Or with an original filter.
Do you recommend this product?
Is it the flapper valve that causes hesitation?
I noticed that the intake of the Porsche x51 canceled the flapper valve, right?

And my last question:
Do I need a software update after switching 200cell converters (Magnaflow or HJS) and after replacing the intake?

Thanks

 

You don't need a tune for the cats and intake to work, though the tune will help maximize their benefits. I think the Evolution Motorsports intake draws in cooler air but the Fabspeed has a better path so either would be OK.

After you've installed the intake and cats, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes so the ECU can go into learning mode and adjust for the changes. It will do this without the battery disconnect over time - it will just take longer.

 

Thank you!
​

 

I still have this hesitation around 3-4K with light throttle. Never been able to kick it.
997.1 C2s with evoms intake, fabspeed sport cats manual.

 

I update that I have replaced the intake kit + exhaust system and the 200CELL HJS catalytic converters and the hesitation at the start of driving between 1500RPM-3000RPM has not yet been resolved. what should I do?
Feeling confused.