I hear and read about not getting on the car too hard until it's "warmed up". However, what does that exactly mean?

In the manual, it only refers to the cooling system temp gauge (the one on the right) when mentioning how to drive the car. It says if the needle is to the left, avoid high engine speeds and heavy engine loading. When it's in the middle, normal operating temp.

So that's the gauge I've used to determine if the car is "warmed up".

However, I've seen some posts regarding the engine oil temp gauge (the one on the far left) as being the one to watch. The manual doesn't mention driving moderately at all in reference to this gauge. Plus, it takes awhile to get this one up to normal temp (200).

Just trying to determine if there's a definitive take on this, and if it's not in accordance with the manual, why?

Thanks!

 

from what I have been reading and being told the Oil Temp is supposed to be up to 225 but at least over 200.
I live in the south now and the car warms up faster than it did when I lived in MO - especially in the Summer.
I wait until it is above 200 and than drive it spirited.

I am no expert so I am just communicating what I have read and been told.
Others may be able to explain this in greater detail

 

175+ on oil and you can start to push it. 190+ let it sing.

 

This even though the manual states the coolant system gauge is the one that should be monitored before driving hard?

 

Coolant will be pegged in the middle within a few minutes and will never deviate for all eternity. It's the engine oil that is lubricating parts and needs to be at op temp before you start putting those parts into "high stress situations".

 

I definitely wait until my oil temps are 180+ before going over 4k rpm

 

Ditto.
T

 

Interesting.... the manual for my 2009 C2S denotes something I don't remember anyone saying here:





Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

Me 2.

 

5 min is an ok measurement but oil temp is better IMO. The oil definitely takes longer to get to temperature depending on the starting temp (cold outside).

I gradually increase rpm and load until oil is around 180ish. That's about the time for me to get to some safe "test road". After that, I gauge load, rpm and speed on how much of a smile I want.

 

Just to echo what is being said here, I recall the BMW M3/4 actually having a rev limiter that restricts RPMs until the engine has reached an appropriate temp. I do not recall the exact RPM or whether the limiter's function can be electively overridden.

 

Bruce ... When first on, the motor runs rich helping to heat the cats. The idea is to get moving soon thereafter to finish the heating cycle, but to not load and rev the motor until the metal parts have heated up, thermally expanded, and are at their operating tolerances.

Water temperature is indicative of the warm up but it is indirect. The oil temperature is more direct, but still some latencies exist. I figure 5 miles past oil at 190. Better safe than sorry ... the 9A1 motor takes a long time to get to temperature in my experience.

 

Related to what Wayne (Smith) posted: I have been waiting for the motor to idle down on cold starts before driving. I take it by doing so I may be inappropriately delaying warm-up of the cats? And here's another semi-related question: during the "run-rich" period I here a burbling sound out of the exhaust that goes away once the motor idles down to the normal 650 RPMs or so. Is that normal and related to the motor running rich? (Porsche neophyte here.) I previously attributed that sound to a possible mechanical issue, but now think it might be related to the motor running rich upon start up. Thanks in advance for the any answers.

 

Yes. You'll have a nice overrun exhaust note until the cats warm up. Then it leans out.

 

You warm up the engine faster by driving so yes you should start driving but moderately. Also - by driving the oil pressure will be higher which helps lubrication when cold. But as mentioned keep it below 3.000. There is actually a delay of ca 10 minutes between the water temp reaching OK level and the oil doing the same.

Yes the burble is due to rich mix. You hear it more pronounced on cars with Gundo hack or where PSE is permanently engaged.