ALEV8

I'll weld the next sunroof shut. Dammit.

I can barely access the last three xzn manifold bolts, and would like to point out the DIY author removed xzn fastners with a gd 5/16" wrench. I need a 997.1 DIY specifically. I can't wait to flog this b1tch on a track to get back at the lunatic who sold me the car.....

qikqbn

Sorry, a bit off topic from AOS ...

No this does not affect sunroof operation.... sorry, liner is not the proper word so that may have been confusing. The sunroof functions as normal. I am speaking about the plastic suede/alcantara covered lid that moves back and forth with the sunroof. Put the sunroof in the "pop up" positions and you will see what I am talking about. This part shakes and rattles and can come loose periodically.

First you may want to try the suggestion of the foam inserts. Because removing the plastic lid/liner of the sunroof does give you more headroom and that area is no longer flush with the rest of the interior roof. It will make sense when you take a closer look. So if the look of the plastic lid/liner missing bothers you, then the other suggestion of maybe sticking some foam in between the plastic lid and metal roof may solve the problem too.

Basically when you look up at a closed sunroof there is a suede/alcantara covered plastic lid/liner that is attached to the sunroof and slides open or closed with the sunroof mechanism. This plastic part comes loose all the time and rattles like crazy over bumps. That's what causes the "plywood" slapping sound as it bounces up and down over bumps. This plastic, suede/alcantara covered part is what I removed.

There are 4 torx screws that hold your metal roof on to the tracks that run back and forth for the sunroof. Always mark screws positions before removing with a sharpy so you can have the same adjustment position when reinstalling. If you pop the sunroof open, instead of sliding it back you can see everything I am talking about. The plastic inner lid is held in place by some hanging brackets and springs. When this piece is removed you are looking directly at the underside of your metal roof which is painted the color of your car. I covered the exposed metal with peel and stick suede or a faux suede like material that color matches perfectly. Now you will have a little extra head room because the lid that was removed used to be flush with the interior roof liner, but after a few days you will not even remember it was there and all that rattling and knocking is gone forever. Putting the suede peel and stick does take some patience. It's not hard, but if you are meticulous like me you will want place your roof on a protected surface and stretch the suede out while sticking it. Cut along the edges and corners nice and slow. Leave some of the backing in the middle portion so it will not stick in the center concave section. it will all make sense if you try this route.

here is a sample of what I used. "Dark grey"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281264193291

ALEV8

Anyone have a goddamn clue how the rearward xzn bolts come out, OR WHERE THEY EVEN ARE. I ain't feeling or seeing.

ALEV8

Well another day of removing elusive manifold bolts, a parts counter trip, which arrived, and I can't get the jack under the car....F. Two of the M6 bolts are for holding the wiring harness track/bracket. Any bolt coming out during this blind job is a win. Even the wrong one. I'm thinking of jacking the car up, ramps underneath THEN loosen engine mounts...if you go in this deep inspect ALL VISIBLE hoses and unions that are rubber. Oil will kill these. Replace them all if you suspect degradation of the rubber. They are cheap. So I have the manifold still to go. Yes I'm slow. On purpose.

qikqbn

You mentioned jacking the car up then putting ramps underneath to remove engine mounts. Maybe i am misunderstanding, but a heads up that if your car is resting on ramps and you loosen your engine mounts that your compressed suspension will start to spring up as you loosen your engine mounts . Regardless if you are supporting your engine with a jack the car body will spring up and pull away from engine . So make sure wheels and suspension are hanging and uncompressed before loosening any engine mounts.

ALEV8

Put the car on jack stands 4x. Then you have the clearance with a regular jack plus a block of wood across the crankcase. Support the crankcase with the Jack and loosen engine mounts on both sides then allow Jack to slowly through perhaps an inch. The sheer luxury of an inch at this point could be worth it. I do have the socket and extension on perhaps the rear manifold T6 bolt. I've backed it out too but it's not coming free of its confines nor is manifold lifting in the rear. So more groping blindly for the rear bolt or remove coolant tank assembly.

syzygy333

feeling for you here, and rooting for you too. you've payed in full in frustration already.
keep up the good fight, but sometimes walk away for a bit

where are you located?

also maybe get a mobile mechanic versed in Porsche to come out?

ALEV8

I have been walking away. Maybe tomorrow the manifold comes out. I'm alreDy looking for another car. We shall see.

ALEV8

Maybe not as all day has been a pursuit of bolt on back of intake. Something won't let a socket slip over easily, or its stripped. I can touch it but can't drop the socket onto it....this is frustrating as ****.

ALEV8

So deep today. That bolt is the last bit of the curse the bitch who sold me this sled put on it. Likely an eye of Anubis. She was Egyptian and that cat God was always on the dash. My hands look line put a severe beating on someone.

Petza914

Man this sucks!

Maybe running a boroscope back there to get a good picture of what you're trying to remove will help you feel your way once you know what it looks like.

Louis de Funes

I feel so bad for you and what you are dealing with