Notices
997 Forum 2005-2012
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Spark Plugs Easy-Flange Studs PIA

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-19-2016, 09:17 AM
  #1  
140.6er
Pro
Thread Starter
 
140.6er's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Posts: 571
Received 32 Likes on 23 Posts
Default Spark Plugs Easy-Flange Studs PIA

All
Yesterday, undertook Spark Plug replace at 30,000 miles on my 09 C2S. Read everything posted here and really not a complicated job. Everything but the flange stud nuts on the exhaust manifold/cats. I soaked the hell out of the studs and nuts with PBB in hopes they would back off dispite obvious rust. Well, gentle readers, didn't happen for your sad writer. Broke one off after another.

Ok, no problem, I will just pop them out with a C Clamp. Nope, no luck. Next I will just drill those nasty bastards out. Nope. Now I'm stuck. Today, I'm going to try to heat them up and bang them out. Another problem is that I can't get the O2 sensors out and I don't want to muscle them and break them too. So now I'm trying to get these bastards out with the cats still attached.

I sort of feel like the Knight of the Sad Countenance battling the windmill of flange nuts. Any other ideas would be much welcomed. Oh yea, spent about 8 hours on these studs and broke/wore out many a drill bit.
Old 08-19-2016, 10:51 AM
  #2  
Quadcammer
Race Director
 
Quadcammer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 15,650
Received 1,389 Likes on 806 Posts
Default

I wasn't aware all that had to come out to do plugs on an NA car.

BTW, heat and PB are your friends. You'll need both.
Old 08-19-2016, 11:13 AM
  #3  
Bruce In Philly
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
Bruce In Philly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,144
Likes: 0
Received 1,536 Likes on 925 Posts
Default

2009 C2S 100K miles - two DIY plug changes so far

I know it is after the fact, but you didn't have to remove those three evil bolts or O2 sensors...... scroll down to my post here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...lug-diy-4.html

However, I broke those bolts myself when I did my Sharkwerks cross pipe.... If you broke them and the nut came off, they just punch out.... really easy with a punch and hammer. If the nut is still there, you can use a grinder or other medieval way.

I highly recommend you remove the rear bumper if you have not already done so. It is easy to do, and makes life way easier.

Peace
Bruce in Philly
Old 08-19-2016, 11:20 AM
  #4  
nismosd
Instructor
 
nismosd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Like Bruce says just use a BFH and wack those out, I had to do the same.
Old 08-19-2016, 11:54 AM
  #5  
cool flash
Racer
 
cool flash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

I currently have one snapped off bolt but i cant manage to hammer it out. I will try a chissel and try from the bolt head.

Cf
Old 08-19-2016, 12:37 PM
  #6  
pavster
Instructor
 
pavster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Northeast USA
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I just replaced my plugs and coils - removed everything but the cats and it was a breeze, though maybe it's different on a .2

However I also wanted to swap my water pump (which requires cat removal) and aborted the project after seeing those same bolts. I am now formulating a plan to proceed. Heat can't be applied there because the inside nut is awfully close to the engine and some plastic/rubber parts there (again a 997.1).

Ah the fun of DIY maintentance...
Old 08-19-2016, 01:04 PM
  #7  
140.6er
Pro
Thread Starter
 
140.6er's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Posts: 571
Received 32 Likes on 23 Posts
Default

Thanks all. I had to take a break this morning from the studs. Currently sitting on the beach contemplating removing those evil things. Going to heat the and try to punch them out later as mentioned. Is stainless bolt replacement ok or I read somewhere they should be zinc coated? M8 bolts I assume. BTW, the spark plug replacement was a breeze.
Old 08-20-2016, 09:41 AM
  #8  
140.6er
Pro
Thread Starter
 
140.6er's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Posts: 571
Received 32 Likes on 23 Posts
Default

Going to get started again this morning. First I will try to heat and punch them out. If no luck I will dremmel and drill till the cows come home.

By the way, torque values: 7.5 for coil pack screw, 22 on the flange bolts, 18 on the exhaust header bolts, 22 on the spark plugs? Does that sound correct?
Old 08-20-2016, 03:33 PM
  #9  
140.6er
Pro
Thread Starter
 
140.6er's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Posts: 571
Received 32 Likes on 23 Posts
Default

Ok so I finished the passenger side plugs and took Bruce's advice and removed the bumper before moving to the other side. Well, now I can't remove the muffler clamp sleeve nut to remove the muffler. I, of course, rounded the nut.
Is this clam bolt also spot welded or pressed into the clamp or if I cut the nut off will the bolt slide out? Having trouble getting my grinder in a position to grind the nut. Also, do I only have to loosen the outer clamp?
Old 08-26-2016, 09:20 AM
  #10  
140.6er
Pro
Thread Starter
 
140.6er's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Posts: 571
Received 32 Likes on 23 Posts
Default

Does anyone know the torque spec for the exhaust sleeve bolts that connect mufflers?



Quick Reply: Spark Plugs Easy-Flange Studs PIA



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 01:40 AM.