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Have a 2007 997.1 GT3 and a Durametric enthusiast version.
I've plugged in the Durametric a few times just to check the system but haven't done a brake bleed to flush the ABS portion of the lines before.
What are the steps in order to correctly bleed the brakes in relation to Durametric. Also, what are the specific steps in the program as I haven't used it in a year or is it obvious when the program is open? I've read most of the threads on brake bleeding in regards to the 997.
Also, most say how hard it is to get to the clutch bleed valve; how bad would it be to skip this step if the car is street driven about 1-2K/year. (put away in the winter)
With the right tool setup, doing the clutch bleed is easy. Here's a photo of the rig I use, which is a ratchet for long bolts, a silicone hose, and collection bag (both the hose and the bag come from SpeedBleeders). I can pass the hose through the center of the ratchet & socket, attach it to the bleed nipple, then slip the socket over the bleed nipple to loosen it and then flick the ratchet switch to tighten it back without ever having to remove it - works great.
To use the Durametric to bleed the ABS system, you have to go into that module, then into the Activations sub-menu, and then activate the pump for each corner in the order they're listed in the Durametric menu. Hook up a Motive Power Bleeder to the reservoir and pressurize it, then activate bleeding for the corner in the software, while the pump is active go open the bleed nipple at the caliper for a couple seconds, close the bleed nipple, then turn off the activation on the PC. Then move to the next corner and repeat the process. If not filling the Motive Power Bleeder with fluid, make sure you don't run the in car fluid reservoir dry during the process - maybe do two corners, refill, repressurize and then do the last 2.
Just want to confirm its necessary to use Durametric to bleed brakes on any Porsche 996 with PSM Switch?
I have both the Durametric and the Motive Pressure Bleeder. Just want to make sure I need to use both and don't need to push brake peddle at all in the process.
Do I need to bleed the clutch at the same time?
What is proper way to ensure that no air gets into line with the Motive bleeder?
No, you don't need to use the Duramtetric activations to bleed the brakes unless you have an issue with a spongy pedal after you're done or accidentally allow air to enter the system. Bleeding the clutch as the same time is a good idea while you have everything out.
There are two ways you can use the Motive Bleeder for a brake bleed.
You can use it simply as a pressure source where you leave it empty (dry), make sure the fluid reservoir in the car is full, hook up the bleeder, pressurize to about 20 psi, then go to the wheel you'll be bleeding and open the bleed screw. The motive will force fluid from the reservoir through the lines - as stated earlier - DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR RUN DRY IF USING IT THIS WAY. Since the reservoir has limited capacity, depending on how much fluid you're planning to bleed at each caliper, the safe thing to do is disconnect the motive after each caliper, refill the car reservoir, then repeat the above steps as you bleed the 2nd caliper, then repeat the process again for each of the 4 calipers.
The other way is to actually put the brake fluid into the Motive Bleeder, screw it onto the reservoir, pressurize it and go bleed the first caliper. With this method, you can put enough fluid into the Motive where you won't have to disconnect it from the reservoir, refill, reconnect, repressurize, etc before moving on to the next caliper. If doing it this way, just repressurize with the pump after each caliper so you're at about 20 psi and while doing that, take a look and make sure you have enough fluid left in the motive for the next wheel. The drawback to this method is you have to clean-up the Motive when you're all done. I used this method #2 and hit all the Pcars each Spring, one right after the other, when I have everything out and dirty, which makes the efficiency of filling the Motive worth the clean-up. They all have SpeedBleeder bleed nipples installed in the calipers as extra insurance that air cannot be sucked back into the caliper at any time.
Using either method, if you let the car reservoir or the Motive reservoir run dry and put air into the system, it will take a few bottles of fluid and the durametric to get it all back out to a solid pedal again, so be very careful not to allow this to happen. Also, be very careful with brake fluid as even a drop on your paint will ruin it - I cover the fenders with trash bags and then cover those with old t-shirts to catch the random drop should it happen.
Good luck
Originally Posted by mjberning
Just want to confirm its necessary to use Durametric to bleed brakes on any Porsche 996 with PSM Switch?
I have both the Durametric and the Motive Pressure Bleeder. Just want to make sure I need to use both and don't need to push brake peddle at all in the process.
Do I need to bleed the clutch at the same time?
What is proper way to ensure that no air gets into line with the Motive bleeder?
Thanks and interesting...I don't track any of my cars, even though the 997 is setup to be a track monster with the engine and suspension upgrades.
I've used SpeedBleeders in all my cars since about 1985 and never had an issue with a single one - that's 32 individual bleed screws with zero failures, but I'll certainly keep an eye on them when doing any brake or wheel work.
I'm not sure how they'd leak though. The tapered point of the bleeder mates to the tapered recess in the caliper and fluid should only be able to get into the opening of the bleeder screw if the bleeder screw is loosened, opening the gap between the bleeder screw base and the inner caliper. The only difference at that point between the factory bleed screw and the SpeedBleeder is the SB has a ball bearing and spring that prevents any sort of reverse flow back into the opening, like air, but that mechanism shouldn't be in use at all when the bleeder screw is tightened down. I wonder if the poster in the other thread over-tightened them and actually stripped the caliper threads and his leaks were coming from there. The SBs are Stainless Steel, so you could certainly damage an aluminum caliper by over-tightening them.
Originally Posted by semicycler
Good info. Very thorough with your posts as usual. Thanks.
In case anyone wants to buy one, The socket set pictured earlier is called "GO-THRU"
You can also use an offset,flex head ,ratcheting box wrench like Gearwrench. Get the set !
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 11-29-2016 at 04:35 PM.
[QUOTE=ymc226;13524248]Have a 2007 997.1 GT3 and a Durametric enthusiast version.
I've plugged in the Durametric a few times just to check the system but haven't done a brake bleed to flush the ABS portion of the lines before.
[QUOTE]
Unless you have replaced or worked on the brake master cylinder, you should not need to bleed the ABS. If after you have bled the main brake circuit and you still have excessive pedal travel (i.e. you close off the system and pump the brakes several times but never get a pressure build-up) then you may need to bleed the ABS (secondary circuit). I have not done it with a Durametric, but if it allows the activations, then all you need to do is pressure up the system to 2 bar (connect your motive bleeder), start the ABS activations with Durametric, have someone pump the brake pedal while you bleed the system, left rear, left front, right rear, right front. On the right front, on the last brake pedal pump, keep it down and close off the bleeder screw, release the brake pedal. At this point I usually give it a couple steady pumps to build up the line pressure. Then I disconnect the bleeder. Of course it goes without saying you will need to ensure brake fluid is full and in the system while bleeding the ABS.
To note, if the Durametric does not automatically activate the proper brake caliper, then you will need to manually activate it in the above sequence.
The wrench pictured looks like a Craftsman max axess. That's what I used to do my clutch, but I had to bore out the hole in the socket a bit to fit over the tube while it was on the bleeder.
Reality check for DIY'ers........ Do you need a lift to get to that clutch bleeder?
I just did a flush for a friend....... from the research I did, it is common to forego this bleed due to access.
Not that it is best, but pretty common for DIY'ers to ignore this and continue on with a regular flush.... without Durametric...... Use the Durametric only if you let the reservoir go dry and therefore let air into the ABS/master cylinder.
While a Motiv is cool and makes a DIY simple if you are alone, this does not imply that having your friend or wife pump the brakes is awful.... it is not. I recently purchased a Motiv but have been doing flushes with my wife and friend's as helpers for a long time. Don;t overthink a simple DIY because of a parts list.
[QUOTE=stronbl;13778113][QUOTE=ymc226;13524248]Have a 2007 997.1 GT3 and a Durametric enthusiast version.
I've plugged in the Durametric a few times just to check the system but haven't done a brake bleed to flush the ABS portion of the lines before.
Unless you have replaced or worked on the brake master cylinder, you should not need to bleed the ABS. If after you have bled the main brake circuit and you still have excessive pedal travel (i.e. you close off the system and pump the brakes several times but never get a pressure build-up) then you may need to bleed the ABS (secondary circuit). I have not done it with a Durametric, but if it allows the activations, then all you need to do is pressure up the system to 2 bar (connect your motive bleeder), start the ABS activations with Durametric, have someone pump the brake pedal while you bleed the system, left rear, left front, right rear, right front. On the right front, on the last brake pedal pump, keep it down and close off the bleeder screw, release the brake pedal. At this point I usually give it a couple steady pumps to build up the line pressure. Then I disconnect the bleeder. Of course it goes without saying you will need to ensure brake fluid is full and in the system while bleeding the ABS.
To note, if the Durametric does not automatically activate the proper brake caliper, then you will need to manually activate it in the above sequence.
Hope this helps ...
It is not recommended to when using the pumping the brake pedal to bleed the brakes to avoid a situation that has the helper pushing the brake pedal all the way down. This results in the piston entering an area of the master cylinder that it normallly does not enter. This can have sediment or if cast iron rust that can damage the seals on the piston.
I used a lift to get to the clutch (quick jack). I'm sure you could do it without a lift, but you'd have to put it on jack stands high enough to be able to get to the top of the transmission.
08-13-2016, 09:50 AM
Durametric and brake bleed and other ?
