Battery Dead Hood Won't open- even w fuse jump
#16
I realized as I put the car "Down" the suspension compressed a lot... I'm assuming this might be the reason the rubber look "off". It wasn't torn, so now I'm thinking it just floats between, but the pressure of the car and the shock closes the gap so non exists.
#17
Just wanted to chime in and offer my experience since I found this forum so helpful.
I have a 2009 997.
I disconnected the battery and closed the frunk.
Lithium jump starter connected to terminal in fuse box, in order to pop the frunk.
Switch next to seat didn't work, but the key fob did (much to my relief).
(And the relief that although battery disconnected, there is a circuit available that will pop the frunk)
I have a 2009 997.
I disconnected the battery and closed the frunk.
Lithium jump starter connected to terminal in fuse box, in order to pop the frunk.
Switch next to seat didn't work, but the key fob did (much to my relief).
(And the relief that although battery disconnected, there is a circuit available that will pop the frunk)
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jlert (05-28-2024)
#18
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#19
thx
Just wanted to chime in and offer my experience since I found this forum so helpful.
I have a 2009 997.
I disconnected the battery and closed the frunk.
Lithium jump starter connected to terminal in fuse box, in order to pop the frunk.
Switch next to seat didn't work, but the key fob did (much to my relief).
(And the relief that although battery disconnected, there is a circuit available that will pop the frunk)
I have a 2009 997.
I disconnected the battery and closed the frunk.
Lithium jump starter connected to terminal in fuse box, in order to pop the frunk.
Switch next to seat didn't work, but the key fob did (much to my relief).
(And the relief that although battery disconnected, there is a circuit available that will pop the frunk)
#20
UNNECESSARY FILLER INFO EVERYWHERE
This thread is so painful to read it makes one feel as if still frozen in the Ice Age. All that’s needed to resolve this is the Mighty Jump Pocket Car Starter: https://ebay.to/2kTiSlg
If there’s any vehicle this device is most useful for, it’s Porsche. Keep it in your glove box. I’m unsure of other models but the Porsche 987 Boxster/Cayman doesn’t have any electrical cut-off for the cigarette lighter port, even with the ignition key removed.
Hope this helps.
If there’s any vehicle this device is most useful for, it’s Porsche. Keep it in your glove box. I’m unsure of other models but the Porsche 987 Boxster/Cayman doesn’t have any electrical cut-off for the cigarette lighter port, even with the ignition key removed.
Hope this helps.
#21
Did you try powering the red bar in the fuse box + ground to the door hinge : for the purpose of popping the hood only? (not to jump the engine)
If so, did you use the hood release button on the rocker panel, or the button on the keyless entry remote to pop the hood?
I recall when I tried this - the button on the rocker panel didn't work but the key button to pop the hood did work.
If so, did you use the hood release button on the rocker panel, or the button on the keyless entry remote to pop the hood?
I recall when I tried this - the button on the rocker panel didn't work but the key button to pop the hood did work.
Hey, Minok just wanted to shout out to you that your tip worked. After searching numerous ways and finding everyone saying to use the door panel button I read your post, hit the button on the remote and like magic it popped open....saved me a ton of time! Thank you!!
#22
I have the same issue with my '09 Carrera S and nothing has worked. Red terminal connected to new battery, two different jump starters and another car using jumper cables. Grounded to door latch and hinge. Still nothing. Any other suggestion before having towed to a local Porsche dealer or mechanic?
Thank you in advance!
Thank you in advance!
#23
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I have the same issue with my '09 Carrera S and nothing has worked. Red terminal connected to new battery, two different jump starters and another car using jumper cables. Grounded to door latch and hinge. Still nothing. Any other suggestion before having towed to a local Porsche dealer or mechanic?
Thank you in advance!
Thank you in advance!
Hook the battery back up and leave it connected for 5 to 10 minutes, then try the key button again.
Once you get thus resolved, find the emergency release cables for both the frunk and the engine lid and route /extend them to somewhere you can access them in case it happens again.
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MEMike (07-12-2019)
#24
x2 guilty. I disconnected my battery AND closed the frunk AND my car does not have the red lifesaver pull out block AND left my lug nut lock in the frunk . My very helpful savior, my local indy mechanic, came to the house, jumped the fuse block with a portable battery pack and voila...
#25
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Hi All,
We are a Rennlist sponsor Antigravity Batteries. We specialize in Battery products and I wanted to post up some options that would help, or eliminate some dead battery issues, and getting access to the frunk as an FYI.
1- First being we make a new Lithium-Ion Battery that has Built-IN Wireless Jump-Starting. Which means you would never be left with a dead battery emergency again... This is because this battery will put itself to SLEEP if you accidentally over-discharge it, and with its Wireless Keyfob, you simply press the Keyfob and AWAKEN the battery and have enough reserve energy to Start your car again, or open the frunk. See them here>>. https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...tive/ag-h6-rs/ I posted a video below for you all as well...
2- Second being we make a Harness Kit that you can route to the edge of your hood and just plug any mini/portable Jump Starter into and energize you Cars system so the frunk will open (easier than the fuse panel and works every time). You can see here>>>> https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...s-msa10b-long/ . WE also make those Mini Jump Starters, our brand is the MICRO-START and our XP-10 product won Consumer Reports "Best Rated Jump Starter".
3- Last we make a Bluetooth device that connects to your battery and will give you all the voltages and send warnings to your phone if you battery is getting low. You can see here>>> https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...ker-lead-acid/
.
Our Automotive "RE-START" Battery Video
We are a Rennlist sponsor Antigravity Batteries. We specialize in Battery products and I wanted to post up some options that would help, or eliminate some dead battery issues, and getting access to the frunk as an FYI.
1- First being we make a new Lithium-Ion Battery that has Built-IN Wireless Jump-Starting. Which means you would never be left with a dead battery emergency again... This is because this battery will put itself to SLEEP if you accidentally over-discharge it, and with its Wireless Keyfob, you simply press the Keyfob and AWAKEN the battery and have enough reserve energy to Start your car again, or open the frunk. See them here>>. https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...tive/ag-h6-rs/ I posted a video below for you all as well...
2- Second being we make a Harness Kit that you can route to the edge of your hood and just plug any mini/portable Jump Starter into and energize you Cars system so the frunk will open (easier than the fuse panel and works every time). You can see here>>>> https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...s-msa10b-long/ . WE also make those Mini Jump Starters, our brand is the MICRO-START and our XP-10 product won Consumer Reports "Best Rated Jump Starter".
3- Last we make a Bluetooth device that connects to your battery and will give you all the voltages and send warnings to your phone if you battery is getting low. You can see here>>> https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...ker-lead-acid/
.
Our Automotive "RE-START" Battery Video
Last edited by Antigravity; 07-12-2019 at 07:44 PM.
#26
Once connected, you're trying to open it with the key button, not the release switch, correct.
Hook the battery back up and leave it connected for 5 to 10 minutes, then try the key button again.
Once you get thus resolved, find the emergency release cables for both the frunk and the engine lid and route /extend them to somewhere you can access them in case it happens again.
Hook the battery back up and leave it connected for 5 to 10 minutes, then try the key button again.
Once you get thus resolved, find the emergency release cables for both the frunk and the engine lid and route /extend them to somewhere you can access them in case it happens again.
Can't seem to find a indy in my area (SF Bay Area, mid-peninsula) that doesn't have bad reviews. Unless someone knows of a indy that will come out to make house calls in my area. Suggestions?
Again, thank you for the input.
#27
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Thank you for the suggestions. I did hook up my jumpers from my other car and left it connected for about two hours. I've used the key fob frunk button and the one in the door without any luck. I would use the emergency cable in the drivers side fender, but the lug key is in the frunk. I currently have a solar charger connected to the cigarette plug (about 2 weeks) with no luck either. I've gone back and tried the red fuse block a few times in the last week or so also.
Can't seem to find a indy in my area (SF Bay Area, mid-peninsula) that doesn't have bad reviews. Unless someone knows of a indy that will come out to make house calls in my area. Suggestions?
Again, thank you for the input.
Can't seem to find a indy in my area (SF Bay Area, mid-peninsula) that doesn't have bad reviews. Unless someone knows of a indy that will come out to make house calls in my area. Suggestions?
Again, thank you for the input.
Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the accessory position to defeat the steering wheel lock, then crank the wheels all the way to the right, then remove the key.
This should give you enough access to the front of the wheelwell liner to get the front part to come down enough to access the emergency release cable.
There's also a chance you'd be able to see it by removing the front turn signal light on that side. Directions for that are also in the manual, but you stick an old hotel card key in the slot between the light and bumper to get the clip to release.
I think that cable is on the driver's side but double check me on that. If it's on the passenger side you'll need to turn the wheels the other way and remove that liner and signal light.
And as you've now witnessed first hand, the only person deterred by locking lug bolts is the owner. Get rid of those and replace with regular lug bolts. A thief with a gator grip pin socket and a battery powered impact gun will spin that one out just like a regular one.
Last edited by Petza914; 07-13-2019 at 09:26 AM.
#28
First, research or find in the manual the way to release a stuck ignition key from the ignition switch because what we do next will get the key stuck.
Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the accessory position to defeat the steering wheel lock, then crank the wheels all the way to the right, then remove the key.
This should give you enough access to the front of the wheelwell liner to get the front part to come down enough to access the emergency release cable.
There's also a chance you'd be able to see it by removing the front turn signal light on that side. Directions for that are also in the manual, but you stick an old hotel card key in the slot between the light and bumper to get the clip to release.
I think that cable is on the driver's side but double check me on that. If it's on the passenger side you'll need to turn the wheels the other way and remove that liner and signal light.
And as you've now witnessed first hand, the only person deterred by locking lug bolts is the owner. Get rid of those and replace with regular lug bolts. A thief with a gator grip pin socket and a battery powered impact gun will spin that one out just like a regular one.
Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the accessory position to defeat the steering wheel lock, then crank the wheels all the way to the right, then remove the key.
This should give you enough access to the front of the wheelwell liner to get the front part to come down enough to access the emergency release cable.
There's also a chance you'd be able to see it by removing the front turn signal light on that side. Directions for that are also in the manual, but you stick an old hotel card key in the slot between the light and bumper to get the clip to release.
I think that cable is on the driver's side but double check me on that. If it's on the passenger side you'll need to turn the wheels the other way and remove that liner and signal light.
And as you've now witnessed first hand, the only person deterred by locking lug bolts is the owner. Get rid of those and replace with regular lug bolts. A thief with a gator grip pin socket and a battery powered impact gun will spin that one out just like a regular one.
Thank you for the suggestions. I will try that one. I've learned how to take the key out of the ignition from this adventure. Great idea on the lug nut!
One more question: The dealer quoted me 1.5 hours to reprogram the car after they put in a new battery. What needs to be reprogrammed that I can't do myself? Will I be able to start and drive the car safely? They made is sound like I couldn't do it and it would not be safe to drive without reprogramming the car.
Again, Thank you so much!
#29
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Thank you for the suggestions. I will try that one. I've learned how to take the key out of the ignition from this adventure. Great idea on the lug nut!
One more question: The dealer quoted me 1.5 hours to reprogram the car after they put in a new battery. What needs to be reprogrammed that I can't do myself? Will I be able to start and drive the car safely? They made is sound like I couldn't do it and it would not be safe to drive without reprogramming the car.
Again, Thank you so much!
One more question: The dealer quoted me 1.5 hours to reprogram the car after they put in a new battery. What needs to be reprogrammed that I can't do myself? Will I be able to start and drive the car safely? They made is sound like I couldn't do it and it would not be safe to drive without reprogramming the car.
Again, Thank you so much!