Battery Dead Hood Won't open- even w fuse jump
07-14-2019 | 12:52 AM
#31
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Florida
First, research or find in the manual the way to release a stuck ignition key from the ignition switch because what we do next will get the key stuck.
Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the accessory position to defeat the steering wheel lock, then crank the wheels all the way to the right, then remove the key.
This should give you enough access to the front of the wheelwell liner to get the front part to come down enough to access the emergency release cable.
There's also a chance you'd be able to see it by removing the front turn signal light on that side. Directions for that are also in the manual, but you stick an old hotel card key in the slot between the light and bumper to get the clip to release.
I think that cable is on the driver's side but double check me on that. If it's on the passenger side you'll need to turn the wheels the other way and remove that liner and signal light.
And as you've now witnessed first hand, the only person deterred by locking lug bolts is the owner. Get rid of those and replace with regular lug bolts. A thief with a gator grip pin socket and a battery powered impact gun will spin that one out just like a regular one.
Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the accessory position to defeat the steering wheel lock, then crank the wheels all the way to the right, then remove the key.
This should give you enough access to the front of the wheelwell liner to get the front part to come down enough to access the emergency release cable.
There's also a chance you'd be able to see it by removing the front turn signal light on that side. Directions for that are also in the manual, but you stick an old hotel card key in the slot between the light and bumper to get the clip to release.
I think that cable is on the driver's side but double check me on that. If it's on the passenger side you'll need to turn the wheels the other way and remove that liner and signal light.
And as you've now witnessed first hand, the only person deterred by locking lug bolts is the owner. Get rid of those and replace with regular lug bolts. A thief with a gator grip pin socket and a battery powered impact gun will spin that one out just like a regular one.
You're right. It's in the driver's side front wheel well. Had this done once. Not by myself but by a Benz tech friend who lives nearby. He didn't take the wheel off but turned it over all the way like you said. It's a bit of a bitch to get to it and having smaller arms and hands helps. Also helps if you know what you're looking/feeling for since you almost have to do it by feel, at least if you leave the wheel on.
02-27-2020 | 03:48 PM
#33
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2019
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[QUOTE=
I recall when I tried this - the button on the rocker panel didn't work but the key button to pop the hood did work.[/QUOTE]
Saved my bacon on this one, thanks!!! Would have never thought of using the key fob instead of the hood release on the rocker panel.
I recall when I tried this - the button on the rocker panel didn't work but the key button to pop the hood did work.[/QUOTE]
Saved my bacon on this one, thanks!!! Would have never thought of using the key fob instead of the hood release on the rocker panel.
03-06-2020 | 03:47 AM
#34
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Did you try powering the red bar in the fuse box + ground to the door hinge : for the purpose of popping the hood only? (not to jump the engine)
If so, did you use the hood release button on the rocker panel, or the button on the keyless entry remote to pop the hood?
I recall when I tried this - the button on the rocker panel didn't work but the key button to pop the hood did work.
If so, did you use the hood release button on the rocker panel, or the button on the keyless entry remote to pop the hood?
I recall when I tried this - the button on the rocker panel didn't work but the key button to pop the hood did work.
01-13-2021 | 07:12 PM
#35
Track Day
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 2
Did you try powering the red bar in the fuse box + ground to the door hinge : for the purpose of popping the hood only? (not to jump the engine)
If so, did you use the hood release button on the rocker panel, or the button on the keyless entry remote to pop the hood?
I recall when I tried this - the button on the rocker panel didn't work but the key button to pop the hood did work.
If so, did you use the hood release button on the rocker panel, or the button on the keyless entry remote to pop the hood?
I recall when I tried this - the button on the rocker panel didn't work but the key button to pop the hood did work.
03-05-2022 | 03:54 AM
#37
Track Day
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 18
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From: Los Angeles, CA
I just wanted to say thank for you for some of the tips here. I had a battery that was completely dead / unable to charge through the 12v input in the car.
I'd tried hooking up the CTEK charger to the fuse box, but no luck. I got a new battery today and my first attempts at using that on the fuse box didn't work either. Grr.
Last this happened (a decade ago) I got to the emergency release behind the wheel without taking the wheel off, but looking at it this week that looked pretty daunting (being ten years older and ten years less interested in twisting and scraping my arm and hand!). I think the tip about turning the wheel is right, but I think maybe turning it left is the right direction. Anyway, I didn't need to because the key eventually opened the frunk. yay.
Three tips from this thread helped:
1) leave the battery plugged in for a bit (just a minute seemed to make a difference).
2) use the key fob remote, not the door button. (The key fob didn't work when the car was charging / alarm was trying to go from the 12v charger).
3) follow the manual exactly. The picture they have is confusing with part of the hinge crossed out; I think what they mean is put negative/ground on the metal hinge close to the car, not on the plastic / aluminum / something else going to the door.
One thing that was confusing to me was that when charging on the 12v outlet the alarm would cycle / try to honk. On the fuse box there's no feedback at all.
I had a key stuck in the ignition since I tried all this first a couple days ago, but today either after/when charging on the 12v outlet or with power on the fuse box I was able to get it out.
ckit73, I don't know if they do house calls, but Dan and Dan at Real Mean Garage ("RMG Enterprises") in Sunnyvale have been excellent for me if you are still looking for a mechanic on the Bay Area peninsula.
I'd tried hooking up the CTEK charger to the fuse box, but no luck. I got a new battery today and my first attempts at using that on the fuse box didn't work either. Grr.
Last this happened (a decade ago) I got to the emergency release behind the wheel without taking the wheel off, but looking at it this week that looked pretty daunting (being ten years older and ten years less interested in twisting and scraping my arm and hand!). I think the tip about turning the wheel is right, but I think maybe turning it left is the right direction. Anyway, I didn't need to because the key eventually opened the frunk. yay.
Three tips from this thread helped:
1) leave the battery plugged in for a bit (just a minute seemed to make a difference).
2) use the key fob remote, not the door button. (The key fob didn't work when the car was charging / alarm was trying to go from the 12v charger).
3) follow the manual exactly. The picture they have is confusing with part of the hinge crossed out; I think what they mean is put negative/ground on the metal hinge close to the car, not on the plastic / aluminum / something else going to the door.
One thing that was confusing to me was that when charging on the 12v outlet the alarm would cycle / try to honk. On the fuse box there's no feedback at all.
I had a key stuck in the ignition since I tried all this first a couple days ago, but today either after/when charging on the 12v outlet or with power on the fuse box I was able to get it out.
ckit73, I don't know if they do house calls, but Dan and Dan at Real Mean Garage ("RMG Enterprises") in Sunnyvale have been excellent for me if you are still looking for a mechanic on the Bay Area peninsula.
Last edited by ask; 03-05-2022 at 03:55 AM.
10-06-2024 | 11:47 AM
#40
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To add a little more to what the other post says, it has very thin gauge wire that does not flow enough current when the latch can draw a bit of current when all is dead. Also the whole system is not powered during the connection to that buss in the fuse panel. Sometimes it does work with the Keyfob though. Its just odd because we tested that so many times and finally found that if you energize the Battery itself with a Wire harness like something we mention earlier in the thread, it pops the frunk when you connect your jump starter to it every time.
Last edited by Antigravity; 10-07-2024 at 11:56 AM.