IMS solution, LN oil filter adapter and even non-Porsche approved oil VOID warranty?
#31
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I should have a sample from my supercharged 997 in a couple months for comparison to see how forced induction, more spirited driving, and higher RPMs effect the #s. That car has a 2L deep sump in it too, so not an exact comparison but should still be another good data point.
#32
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
so if there is more stuff getting into the engine since the K&N, I would assume that will be replaced with the stock filter ASAP, since it doesn't add any HP anyways?
Can anyone compare how much better the DT40 is based on this data? I am not familiar enough to know
Can anyone compare how much better the DT40 is based on this data? I am not familiar enough to know
#33
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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My point was that the silica levels don't show any more junk getting into the oil with the K&N than average samples provided by Blackstone for comparison. I've run my car (not this one) with the stock airbox and stock filter, the stock airbox and a K&N filter, and the Fabspeed J-Pipe and the best performance (better throttle response, better top end, etc) is with the Fabspeed setup. Once I converted my RUF fixed-wing spoiler to be active Aero with hydraulics, I couldn't use the stock airbox anyway (no space for the hydraulics down the sides) so it's either this or an Evoms from here forward, so I'm glad the car runs the best with these higher flowing intakes.
#34
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
While on the topic of oil. My first oil change since I have now put 2800 miles on it since then. Using 5-40 motul excess. The indicator is smack dead in the middle which means I am using about .6L per 3000 miles. I drive 80+% of my miles on city streets and not freeway
my research seems to indicate that this is pretty good (as some people go through and it is acceptable to go through up to 1L per 1000 miles)?
Seems like the biggest concern if one of burning or using a lot of oil is bore scoring?
at 4,000 I will change and blackstone it. Since I still have "enough" oil, should I "top it off" or just leave it til next oil change?
tia
my research seems to indicate that this is pretty good (as some people go through and it is acceptable to go through up to 1L per 1000 miles)?
Seems like the biggest concern if one of burning or using a lot of oil is bore scoring?
at 4,000 I will change and blackstone it. Since I still have "enough" oil, should I "top it off" or just leave it til next oil change?
tia
#35
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
While on the topic of oil. My first oil change since I have now put 2800 miles on it since then. Using 5-40 motul excess. The indicator is smack dead in the middle which means I am using about .6L per 3000 miles. I drive 80+% of my miles on city streets and not freeway
my research seems to indicate that this is pretty good (as some people go through and it is acceptable to go through up to 1L per 1000 miles)?
Seems like the biggest concern if one of burning or using a lot of oil is bore scoring?
at 4,000 I will change and blackstone it. Since I still have "enough" oil, should I "top it off" or just leave it til next oil change?
tia
my research seems to indicate that this is pretty good (as some people go through and it is acceptable to go through up to 1L per 1000 miles)?
Seems like the biggest concern if one of burning or using a lot of oil is bore scoring?
at 4,000 I will change and blackstone it. Since I still have "enough" oil, should I "top it off" or just leave it til next oil change?
tia
#36
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The distance between the major lines is supposed to be about 0.4L. I would add 0.25L and then check the level for the next couple days. You're better off where you are than overfull (all the way up the gauge) but to the top line is the ideal level. Since you have about 1,000 miles to go until your next oil change, you may drop down 1 more major line between now and then, which is a not terrible, but a little too low. That's why I say top up a little now to get back to the top line (not full gauge) and that will probably see you through for the next 1,000 miles until the change.
1. don't top it off and see exactly how much oil is consumed in exactly 4,000 miles (which may not matter, since I may already have a large enough sample size to determine that I am not burning an abnormal amount of oil)? This would also give blackstone a more accurate reading as it wouldn't be adding some fresh oil to the content
VS
2. Top it off for the good of the engine having more oil and adding a little bit of "fresh" oil could maybe do the engine a little good as well.
I am kind of leaning towards #1 to see how much more is consumed and also to send a more accurate sample to blackstone
#37
Warranty
was talking to a mechanic buddy of mine (non-Porsche, just shop talk) and we were talking about the IMS situation. Of course he knew nothing about it (not being involved with Porsche) but as I was talking to him about my options, I also happened to mention that I have a 3rd party warranty that still lasts until the end of 2019. He all of the sudden got real serious and said that I may want to be careful before doing any aftermarket parts to the engine, because if something did happen to it, a non-OEM part would just give the warranty company a reason to deny the claim. Then later I was thinking that even using the LN engineering oil filter thread-on adapter and a different type of oil filter could potentially be a reason to deny, and maybe even magnetic oil pan nut?
I guess now I need to rethink having the IMS solution installed until maybe just before the warranty is expired, and even wonder if even using some good preventative measures may be an “issue”. Come to think of it, the Joe Gibbs Racing oil DT40 is not a Porsche Approved product, so that may not be happening for a while now either.
Anyone familiar with this type of situation? It would really stink to have an extended warranty and while trying to prevent future problems, void my warranty and then have it bite me in the butt later.
I guess now I need to rethink having the IMS solution installed until maybe just before the warranty is expired, and even wonder if even using some good preventative measures may be an “issue”. Come to think of it, the Joe Gibbs Racing oil DT40 is not a Porsche Approved product, so that may not be happening for a while now either.
Anyone familiar with this type of situation? It would really stink to have an extended warranty and while trying to prevent future problems, void my warranty and then have it bite me in the butt later.
I think the insurance company will attempt to deny if they think they have a large probability of success. However I believe this law applies?
http://www.impalasuperstore.com/naisso/magmoss.htm