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People who are insisting that adding an intake would immediately void your warranty need to go read up on the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act. It exists to prevent unscrupulous businesses from denying warranty claims for bogus reasons...
thanks. Good points, so would you run Motul or DT40?
I just changed my car over to DT40 based on the additive package (primarily the Zinc level) not holding up well in both my car and my wife's with a sample size of 4 oil changes, and they're driven completely differently. If you feel you need to run a Porsche A40 Approved oil, then run the Motul at a 3,000 MI change interval. I personally would run the DT40, and am, but I don't have a warranty consideration to factor into my decision.
I just changed my car over to DT40 based on the additive package (primarily the Zinc level) not holding up well in both my car and my wife's with a sample size of 4 oil changes, and they're driven completely differently. If you feel you need to run a Porsche A40 Approved oil, then run the Motul at a 3,000 MI change interval. I personally would run the DT40, and am, but I don't have a warranty consideration to factor into my decision.
Great, thanks for you input. Still trying to figure out in my head whether to switch to the screw on oil filter adaptor. Want no red flags
Great, thanks for you input. Still trying to figure out in my head whether to switch to the screw on oil filter adaptor. Want no red flags
The bypass valve in the bottom of the OEM filter assembly is bad. It's purpose is to prevent the engine from starving for oil, but bypass means the oil bypasses the filter which can run junk directly up into your motor. I don't know if this is there because the there's not enough filter media in the stock filter assembly and they're concerned it could get jammed up with crud and not flow enough oil to the motor, or what. Also, with the metal filter, you can attach magnets to it and trap even the finest ferrous particles against the side of the filter instead of only relying on the media to catch them.
Ya, I saw some of those large magnets online seems like a great idea. Thought about those too
Originally Posted by Petza914
The bypass valve in the bottom of the OEM filter assembly is bad. It's purpose is to prevent the engine from starving for oil, but bypass means the oil bypasses the filter which can run junk directly up into your motor. I don't know if this is there because the there's not enough filter media in the stock filter assembly and they're concerned it could get jammed up with crud and not flow enough oil to the motor, or what. Also, with the metal filter, you can attach magnets to it and trap even the finest ferrous particles against the side of the filter instead of only relying on the media to catch them.
Ya, I saw some of those large magnets online seems like a great idea. Thought about those too
LNE sells a bundle with a magnetic plug, FilterMag for the filter casing, and the spin-on adapter. For me, 5k oil changes, JGR DT-40, the bundle, and less than 3k rpm until about 200 deg F oil temp, until my clutch needs to be replaced to then be able to see if I have the small bearing (go with a new bearing) or the large bearing (just remove the seal).
Last edited by jchapura; 03-03-2016 at 10:44 PM.
Reason: the original got "chopped"
The bypass valve in the bottom of the OEM filter assembly is bad. It's purpose is to prevent the engine from starving for oil, but bypass means the oil bypasses the filter which can run junk directly up into your motor. I don't know if this is there because the there's not enough filter media in the stock filter assembly and they're concerned it could get jammed up with crud and not flow enough oil to the motor, or what. Also, with the metal filter, you can attach magnets to it and trap even the finest ferrous particles against the side of the filter instead of only relying on the media to catch them.
I don't really agree with this Pete. Bypassing oil filtration for short times sounds bad but really is not. At first.... OMG! Dirty Oil!!!!! BAD!.
The issue is not about badness, but about dirtyness. The oil just isn't dirty. The oil is constantly being filtered so it is darn clean. The only particulates in it are what the engine deposited in the last circulation cycle which is microscopically nothing. If it was significant, you filter would be clogged solid and not be able to last 10,000 miles (spec for change in my car).
I really think this horror over a temp bypass valve is way over blown.
Bruce, you can do what you like (including a 10,000 mile change interval - which I think is a little nuts too) but the other problem with the bypass valve is that it works off of spring pressure and as that spring wears or if you get one that's not quite as strong, it can allow some oil through the bypass path all the time, not just once in a while. Couple that with oil that's had lots of use where the byproducts of up to 10,000 miles (in your case) worth of combustion events are circulating through it, and I don't think you're taking the best care possible of the engine. I know you put tons of miles on these cars so you can do what's been working for you in the past, but I think you've also had a couple engine failures as well, or am I remembering that incorrectly?
Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly
I don't really agree with this Pete. Bypassing oil filtration for short times sounds bad but really is not. At first.... OMG! Dirty Oil!!!!! BAD!.
The issue is not about badness, but about dirtyness. The oil just isn't dirty. The oil is constantly being filtered so it is darn clean. The only particulates in it are what the engine deposited in the last circulation cycle which is microscopically nothing. If it was significant, you filter would be clogged solid and not be able to last 10,000 miles (spec for change in my car).
I really think this horror over a temp bypass valve is way over blown.
Bruce, you can do what you like (including a 10,000 mile change interval - which I think is a little nuts too) but the other problem with the bypass valve is that it works off of spring pressure and as that spring wears or if you get one that's not quite as strong, it can allow some oil through the bypass path all the time, not just once in a while. Couple that with oil that's had lots of use where the byproducts of up to 10,000 miles (in your case) worth of combustion events are circulating through it, and I don't think you're taking the best care possible of the engine. I know you put tons of miles on these cars so you can do what's been working for you in the past, but I think you've also had a couple engine failures as well, or am I remembering that incorrectly?
I change my oil every 7 and have, generally changed it earlier than necessary. I don't think I can attribute my engine failures in my Boxster S to following the recommended maintenance schedule... the failures were unknown and that stuff is way complicated to truly understand cause and effect.
But what underlies my general approach to these things is questioning Porsche's maintenance requirements and designs. Sure, the M96/97 is no design worthy of posting on Porsche's 'fridge, but there is a theme here with these thread types:
-Porsche's oil recommendations are bad, probably some money deal with suppliers
- Designs that relate to cooling or oiling are always not as good as it should or needs to be
- Following factory maintenance scheduled are bad for you car and will lead to early failures or at least you can extend life and lessen failures by doing more earlier.
I just don't jump to this stuff very quickly. I need real convincing to deviate.
Vern, move along bro. Ignore threads you have no interest in
Oh I have plenty of interest and frankly think I have given you the best advice.
Where do you stop on the oil change spectrum? Why 3000 and not 500 mile changes? And why not Mobil 1 vs Motul etc. These topics have been discussed to DEATH and there is still no consensus. Honestly if you followed some of the suggestions on oil threads you would change it after every drive (and my guess is there is someone out there that does!)
So my suggestion of not obsessing over things like this and just take a reasonably moderate view on service intervals and get on with life and driving and ENJOYING the car
LNE sells a bundle with a magnetic plug, FilterMag for the filter casing, and the spin-on adapter. For me, 5k oil changes, JGR DT-40, the bundle, and less than 3k rpm until about 200 deg F oil temp, until my clutch needs to be replaced to then be able to see if I have the small bearing (go with a new bearing) or the large bearing (just remove the seal).
Ordered the LN parts today along with lots of Motul. May eventually switch to JGR, but for now want to run a porsche approved oil
Just received back the most recent UOA from Blackstone on my wife's '05 997 C2S (attached PDF in addition to the pic in case it's too small) and thought you guys might find it interesting as it relates to the K&N filters allowing more dirt and dust into the motor, which would actually show up as silicon in the analysis. This car has been running an EVOMS intake with an oiled K&N filter since we've had it for all the UOAs that have been done. As you can see, Blackstone's average range for Silicon content is 6-8 and all of these samples are at or below these averages.
Also of interest here is how much better the Joe Gibbs Driven DT40 is holding up in this 997 motor compared to the A40 approved Motul 8100 xcess. It's viscosity at 4,000 miles is better than the Motul even when the Motul was changed at a 3,600 mile interval, and the Phosphorous & Zinc levels, which are critical to the life of these motors, are the highest compared to any of any Motul sample.
Based on these #s, I'll be going back to a 5,000 mile change interval to see what the #s look like there.
Can you recall seeing a DT40 analysis that might show how long the oil is good for under a certain set of circumstances (summer in NC, daily driver, xxxx miles put on over 4 months, etc., etc.)?
03-03-2016, 07:44 PM
