yashagrawal

I have a 2009 911 C4S, currently at 35,000 miles. Stealer says new front brakes and rotors will be needed at next visit at 40,000 miles (4 mm left).

I am surprised that he is asking to replace both brakes and rotors. Car has not been tracked, only street and highway driving.
- What is the typical interval to replace rotors on the C4S with non-track use. - - - Cost quoted is about 1960$, is that typical.

Cbst09

Most dealers will recommend rotor changes with every pad change. If you don't track the car and the rotors don't show a big lip on them and there are no cracks running between the drilled holes you will probably be fine with just pad replacement. Ask the dealer if the rotors are approaching their minimum thickness, if they are not then you could just get the pads done. It's super easy to do so and there is plenty of info out there detailing the process. You could do the rotors and pads yourself for about $450 using Sebro or Zimmerman rotors and Textar pads.

Hella-Buggin'

35k miles of 911 stopping bliss for $2k seems like a fair deal. I believe my dealership was slightly less but that's because I have seven dealerships within an hour of the house.
You can find a good indy and save a few hundred bucks or do it yourself.

Crester

If your rotor has a big lip on it... replace them... if not just change the pads. My last brake change I changed just the front pads. But next time I will change the rotors too because I'm developing a lip.

Sydneysixer

I suspect when the dealer said there is "4 mm left" they meant the pads rather than the rotors, as I understand on most (if not all) 997 OEM steel brake rotors, the difference between new and minimum (replacement) thickness is 2mm. A big lip (approx 1mm each side) is therefore an indicator the rotor is getting down to the minimum thickness. The minimum rotor thickness is engraved on the rotor near the hub, visible through the wheels - if you are able to measure the thickness with a vernier calliper or micrometer I would do so.

How long your rotors last is hugely dependent on driving style. I have recently replaced the front rotors on mine at 72,000km (45,000 miles). The rear rotors have reasonable life left in them yet.

If you are half way mechanically inclined and have basic tools, replacing pads and rotors on a 997 is pretty straightforward - there is plenty of help on this forum if you search.

Wayne Smith

The rotors have drilled divots around the outer edge. When you can't see these you are too thin. Vernier calipers will measure the lip but not the surface thickness. And there are not very many places to fit them in.

Full replacement is quite easy. I replaced mine at 63K miles in under an hour. The biggest hassle is getting the guide clips for the wear sensor cable off but this is easy when you see the trick. I did pads, rotors, sensors, and bolts.

Life expectancy is quite variable and depends on your driving. I've followed some whose brake lights are always off and some whose lights are on half the time.

Sydneysixer

[QUOTE=Wayne Smith;13027854]The rotors have drilled divots around the outer edge. When you can't see these you are too thin. Vernier calipers will measure the lip but not the surface thickness. And there are not very many places to fit them in.


Wayne, you raised a good point about the lip that I neglected to mention if using a vernier calliper. Two options to get around this are to either:
1. use the vernier depth gauge via the cross drilled holes (a magnet on the inside face helps, but remember to remove it afterwards), or
2. use a couple of coins to zero the caliper, and then measure the thickness of the rotor plus a coin either side, so as to clear the lip.

Also, I don't think all models/ rotor sizes have the wear indicator divots (my 997.1 C2 OEM rotors for example, do not). Perhaps the later models do?

cheers

Wayne Smith

A version of the coin trick is what I used until I found the divots. I like your magnet idea.

I neglected to state mine is a 2010 C4S. YMMV!

Quadcammer

mother of christ people, this is why they make micrometers.

A cheap set is like $35 at harbor freight. mitutoyos they may not be, but they'll do.

Bruizer

File the lip off

ltcjmramos

Is not 2009 the beginning of the 997.2? If so, the divots should be there.

slicky rick

40k kms and waiting for something to light up or squeak like a pig...the. I will start replacing brake stuff

stronbl

To the OP - according to the workshop manual for 997-2, PAG does not require a brake disc replacement with each pad replacement. They have specific thicknesses (measured at 3 different place on the brake disc) and crack procedures that guide the replacement of brake discs. That being said, it all depends on how heavy of a brake user you are ... I replace pads several times during the track season, and brake discs usually once a season. If you drive very aggressively on the street and utilize your brakes a lot, you could very well be in need of new brake discs as well as pads. But measurements and visual observation is the proper test according to PAG.

As others have said, it is a simple procedure to do all the work yourself or even at a good indy shop if cost is an issue. I just reviewed my costs for parts only for 2 front brake discs, and front and rear pads, including hardware, sensors and brake flush it was $1059 (I did the labor). So if you are getting all 4 wheels with new discs and pads for $1600, that's not too bad.

yashagrawal

Thank you all, I was just surprised that the dealer wanted to change the rotors along with pads, with my previous Saab, I only changed pads. Will get it done at the dealership.

Wayne Smith

Looks like the $1960 is front only. FWIW, after PCA discount, I paid $795.66 at my dealer for rotors, pads, sensors, hardware, and tax. An hour later I was done. I did not bleed the brake lines (I had done a full flush eight months before).

It doesn't sound like you will DIY, but if you do opt to do the brakes yourself, make sure you don't overflow the master as you push the pucks back into the calipers.