Hi Bruce,

thank you so much for this guide. I just changed my worn out mounts to WEVO semi-solid. Using your instructions this was a breeze.

 

NP.. stuff is easy with the help of others.

Airbox air hose install update: This thing is annoying to get back together properly. Hint: Where the hose attaches to the metal throttle body, look inside the hose before you try and install.... there are nubs that have to go inside the throttle body... if you just try and slip the hose over it, the nubs get jammed... hence pain and suffering. See my vid below on that stupid sound valve thingy in the S model.... in that vid, I show the nubs in the rubber hose.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

By the way, here's is one little trick I picked up when I did the mounts:
When you jack up the engine so it no longer has load on the mounts, it's hard to judge when you applied enough pressure.
Before I started to jack up the engine, I loosened the 4 bolts (2 on each side) on top of the mounts by maybe two turns.
Now as soon as you applied enough lift, the mounts will come up and make contact with the bolts again (in my case I heard a small metallic click).
This takes out the guesswork and prevents you from applying too much pressure on the oil pan.

 

Clever...... exggcellent.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

I just completed this upgrade today -- Thanks Bruce for the excellent write up. I also used OEM Porsche mounts.

For those considering this on 997.2 base/3.6 models -- no need to remove the airbox completely/disconnect MAF/intake. The vacuum lines for the 3.6 DI are under the airbox and don't block the right side mount.

No need to jack up the car, but a breaker bar and a 10" socket extension are essential. Easy swap, big improvement.

 

I just swapped mine as well. Very easy job. I just bought my car and it had 112k miles on it. Mounts were original and they were well worn to say the least. Big improvement.

You don't need to remove the entire air box (at least on 997.2). Just removing the top is enough.

 

I'm thinking about installing mine tomorrow, so I thought I'd hijack this thread. I just got my real deal OEM mounts from Suncoast...they didn't come in a box, they were each individually wrapped up...I'm OCD so that bothered me. Made me a little suspicious they're rebuilds. But I'm gonna let it go and just proceed because Suncoast has a pristine reputation and I'm a noob.

Member @LittleBitBent said this about his DIY: I put my trolley jack directly on the engine harness aft of the oil pan. By doing that, I avoided the need to put a piece of wood on the jack. I lifted the engine about three inches, just enough to take the weight off.

Any thoughts? Is that ok, or a little risky? If everyone else is using a big piece of wood there must be good reason? But now I have to find a big chunk of wood somewhere haha!! Maybe just Home Depot? The wood is the only thing holding back at this point. Otherwise this is gonna be way easier than plugs and coils ��

 

I just stole a piece of wood from an old bookshelf , took the books off, pulled the shelf out and threw it over the jack then pumped it up a few inches and I was off to the races. Super easy job. Longest part was getting the wood...

 

So I did this tonight after work, started around 10pm and finished around 11PM. As for the wood, a block of wood will do. I'm not a carpenter, but like a 2x6 or 2x8? It's not that big of a deal.

The only thing that gave me pause was tightening the t55 nut. I torqued the top two 13mm bolts first. But after I got the t55 torqued I just couldn't get my head wrapped around how the t55 nut held the engine in place. So I loosened both t55 nuts and jacked the engine up a little more. That way I could see the engine mounts were all the way down where they were supposed to be. After that, I re-torqued the t55 nuts. Completely unnecessary but I tend to overthink things.

It's really late so I had to start her up with the garage closed to I wouldn't disturb the neighbors. Wow the warmup process was SO much smoother and it idled so smooth. My vibrating passenger seat is a thing of the past. I only revved it to 2k once before I shot her off and I could barely feel anything. And of course it will all be even smoother once the oil is warm etc. I'm really happy.

Someday I'll tell you guys about how I bought this car. No one in their right mind would have purchased this car. She was cosmetically perfect but no one would buy her. She had plugged up air filters, dirty oil, 89 octane gas, bad engine mounts, and desperately needed plugs and coils. Put all those things together and she shook like crazy on my test drive. But I did a lot of googling and felt I could completely transform this car with some TLC. It's now six weeks later and I've done everything I set out to do and she runs so smooth now. Here I am celebrating and probably something will go wrong haha!! But for now she runs beautifully.

For anyone wondering, doing all the recommended maintenance and putting together all the receipts and documents is very satisfying.

 

If you use lines like this, avoid the Racing and DE section on Rennlist!

 

Replaced my mounts with Corteco units from FCP Euro this weekend and couldn't be happier. (Like the OP, I DD my .2 C4S and didn't want to trade NVH.) Huge thanks to @Bruce In Philly for this thread, which made both the install and what to expect super straightforward!

 

I'm glad to hear that we could help you repair your 911 with quality OEM parts.

- Eric

 

Thanks for the write-up Bruce! - I completed the installation today with OEM parts. In the spirit of improving the process for future DIY'ers - I'd also like to second Mercman's suggestion that only the top cover of the airbox needs to be removed. AKA: you do NOT need to remove the hose to the throttle body, and the lower half of the airbox which can be a PITA. FYI: I have the 3.8 engine, and with the top half of the airbox removed, you have more than adequate space to remove the motor mounts. You may need a wobble socket to access a couple of the 4 bolts, but still quite easy. Soup to nuts including using (jackpoint) jack stands took a hair over an hour.

 

Anyone else do this motor mount change without jacking up the car? I haven't wrapped my head around jacking up the car vs leaving all the motor's weight on the frame.

 

I jacked the rear up a couple of inches and put the car on jack stands, then used the same trolley/floor jack to lower the engine slightly to remove the mounts. I think the whole job took well under an hour, including all the messing around with jacks and wooden blocks.