Torq5teer

I just discovered that there is a small oil leak coming from the oil filter housing. I got under the car and the whole filter housing was covered with a thin layer of oil, with a little drip hanging from the bottom. The oil coverage also extended above the filter housing onto the case by about 1/2 inch. It is the entire circumference of the housing and case, and appears to be coming from the seam where the two meet.

The car is essentially in storage for the winter now, and it has been 6K miles since last oil service. I was planning on doing the oil change when I wake it up in the spring. My guess is that the housing or seal simply loosened up in some way allowing oil to escape. My question though, after trying to search with the extra crappy rennlist app, is has anyone else run into this, and is it indicative of something more significant the I should be on the lookout for.

Quadcammer

Replace the big o-ring seal and put in a new filter while you're at it. Add back fresh oil to replace what drained out.

Monitor.

BIG smoke

Before you drop everything?
Is the housing loose? Try snugging it up first.
Then wipe everything down, and keep an eye on it.
If its going away for the winter, some change to oil before, some in the spring.
I'm a change and store guy. Don't have to do it in the spring when I'm excited to get it out.

semicycler

You can remove the oil filter canister without draining all the oil in the engine. You will only lose what oil is in the canister itself. So, unscrew the canister, clean it up, inspect for cracks and damage, and replace the o-ring. I'd replace the filter too while in there since you buy the filter and o-ring as a pair. Then reinstall the canister and top off the oil.

j beede

The canister is cheap... replace it too. Have you considered eliminating the canister by converting to a conventional spin on filter using the LN adapter?

I vote for running the engine on clean, fresh, "dry" oil changed after storage.

Torq5teer

Thanks for the responses. I plan on changing the oil in the spring, rather than let it sit in the engine over the winter.

I didn't know eliminating the canister was even an option. I'll look into that.

What I am happy to hear (or not hear) are no anecdotes about clogged oil lines and failure preceded by a leaking canister. I know anything is possible, but it is nice to know it isn't a known "thing".

ChicagoSpeed996

Yep, o-ring, had the same problem with a new o-ring. Get a replacement filter and o-ring as others have said.

Wayne Smith

Rub a little oil on that o ring before you install it.

Sneaky Pete

That's what she said.......Ba Dum Bum

Petza914

I know there are thousands of them out there, but I just don't like the idea of the oil filter canister being plastic. With all those heat cycles, it has to become brittle over time and you know if it's going to fail, it's going to do it when it's most convenient for you - NOT.

I would replace it with the spin on oil filter adapter as previously mentioned (I have these on both my 997s) or if you want to keep the original design, someone makes a billet version of the canister which will be a lot stronger and more durable, and might even help in adding a tiny bit of cooling.

Once enough oil loleaks out to get below the junction point between the engine and filter housing the leak will stop so you can either change it now or later.

Also, I would recommend not going beyond 5,000 miles between oil & filter changes.

Torq5teer

The unseasonably warm November racked up some extra miles. I am sure it will survive somehow. Every time I told myself it was time to pack it up, the next day was 65 and sunny. I looked at the screw on adapter, the jury is still out.

almico

I just love this forum!

I picked up my first p-car (997.1) 2 weeks ago and haven't stopped driving it since. The weather has be hot and sunny here in NJ. The car was bone dry until yesterday when I noticed a little puddle of oil. Uh-oh.




Stuck my head under this morning and it appears to be coming from the oil filter housing.







I already have oil and a filter to do a change in a few weeks, but I haven't purchased the filter housing "wrench" yet. What is recommended? I might try snugging up the housing first as the oil is only 1500 miles old.

More pics before and after wiping it down. I just ordered a new housing too.

jchapura

I'd get this
Spin-on Oil Filter Adapter for MY97-08 Boxster Cayman 911 $159.00 SKU: 106-01
and this
FilterMAG SS300 for 2.9-3.4" OD Filters (Fits Spin On Filter Adapter 106-01 106-01.3) $69.95 SKU: 106-01.8
from LNE, instead.
And a filter.
LNE, or reseller, may have a "bundle" available.

rileyracing1

The spin on adapters are the way to go .... Much better than the oem cartridge type .

8x57IRS

I have done some research on this and really was surprises because I thought about fitting the spin-on solution.

First of all, i pulled out the pressure relief valve from the original filter housing for curiosity and did some measurements. The opening pressure of the valve starts at approx. 2.2barg. My housing was from 2010. The spin on solution uses oil filters that also have a pressure relief valve installed in some cases, which already opens at lower (!) or similar overpressures. Furthermore, the original housing is made of glass fiber reinforced nylon (PA66 GF35). I was about to shoot the original housing and a spin on filter with an air rifle. I could not yet bring myself to do this, have no spin on filter anyway. But: I trust the tough original housing more than a thin sheet metal jacket when hit by stone etc.

So at this point, I really can't see any advantage anymore, besides, the original filter insert is much easier to check for chips and waste is also minimized.

Btw, the valve can be pulled out and put in again without destroying something, it's just clicked in.