Notices
997 Forum 2005-2012
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

DIY for replacing the trunk / engine lid switch

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-13-2015, 03:02 AM
  #1  
Hatzenbach
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Hatzenbach's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Carlos, CA 94070
Posts: 1,895
Received 482 Likes on 226 Posts
Default DIY for replacing the trunk / engine lid switch

Hi,

I broke the switch to open the trunk (the one in the door sill next to the driver's seat). I have the spare part, but now i am trying to figure out how to replace it.
Has anyone some pointers?
Old 09-13-2015, 09:51 AM
  #2  
Quadcammer
Race Director
 
Quadcammer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 15,650
Received 1,389 Likes on 806 Posts
Default

not bad to do.

1. locate the two plastic trim plugs on the sills. You can feel them with your hand. They are a bit difficult to remove cleanly. I tend to just stab them with a pick and lever them out.

2. behind the plugs are allen bolts. I want to say they are 5mm but I can't recall. Front one is a piece of cake. Just loosen them, you don't need to remove. The rear one is very tight to the seat, so you'll need to adjust the seat to get the allen in there.

3. once the allens are loose. Just pull up on the sill firmly. Don't go gorilla on it but you do have to be firm with it.

4. Disconnect the harness plug.

5. Flip the sill over and look at the switch unit. There are 4 tabs that you need to pry on to slide the switch out. Really I just wedge a pick or very small flat head in there. Once you get the first side done, it goes easily.

6. New one just snaps in, plug it in, assembly is reverse of removal.
Old 09-13-2015, 02:57 PM
  #3  
Hatzenbach
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Hatzenbach's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Carlos, CA 94070
Posts: 1,895
Received 482 Likes on 226 Posts
Default

Thanks a lot
Worked like a charm :-)
Old 05-28-2018, 02:44 PM
  #4  
mblueracer
Advanced
 
mblueracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

I confirm hex allen key is 5mm. It is necessary to be patient with the pulling up of door sill, takes some effort. Same with removing the switch unit: small flat head is indeed best method with care and more efforts.


Finally got the door sill away and switch unit disconnected. Then removing the unit takes some more patience and effort.


Front allen bolt is easy.


Not much room with rear allen bolt.


The front allen bolt with the tabs keeping the sill firmly in place after applying pressure from top. That's why it is an effort to pull up.
Old 07-16-2018, 05:28 PM
  #5  
ForwardLooking
1st Gear
 
ForwardLooking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Thanks to all on this thread - worked great!

Pulling firmly and slowly upwards on the sill made somewhat terrifying rending noises, but it appears to be just the black friction connectors visible in mblueracer's photographs giving way.

Easy job with the above instructions and some patience removing the switch unit from the plastic sill assembly.
The following users liked this post:
jstepupt (10-27-2019)
Old 07-16-2018, 09:08 PM
  #6  
TheBruce
Three Wheelin'
 
TheBruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,764
Received 460 Likes on 165 Posts
Default

Is it possible to to repair a broken switch? My frunk switch is a little fiddley. Feels like something came loose in the switch and wondering if I can crack if open or need to buy a new module.
Old 09-18-2018, 12:37 AM
  #7  
bbachan
2nd Gear
 
bbachan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hello Fellas,

Do you guys know where I can purchase the trunk switch. I'm looking for a replacement. Mine broke off. I'd appreciated it if guys can direct me somewhere or know if someone is selling a used one.

Thanks
Bruce B
Toronto, Canada
Old 09-18-2018, 12:47 AM
  #8  
Matthew Yonan
Intermediate
 
Matthew Yonan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 31
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

The following users liked this post:
sfNative (11-11-2020)
Old 09-18-2018, 12:50 AM
  #9  
bbachan
2nd Gear
 
bbachan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks Mathew. Much appreciated.

Bruce B
Old 10-30-2018, 11:14 AM
  #10  
JustinCase
Racer
 
JustinCase's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Nolensville, TN
Posts: 495
Received 147 Likes on 88 Posts
Default Customized 5mm Allen Key Sill Removal Tool

While some people report being able to loosen the two 5mm Allen bolts required to remove the driver's side sill with a standard Allen key, I suspect different seat configurations make loosening the rear bolt much more difficult, if not impossible. It also may depend on the length of the short leg of your Allen key. In my case, I have a manually-adjusted driver's seat, and I found it impossible to loosen the back bolt with my particular 5mm key because the short leg could not reach the front of the bolt. The seat interfered with the key, making it impossible to use the long leg no matter the seat position. So I cut the long leg of the Allen key down (see photo) to a total of about 2", polished the end with sandpaper, and slightly eased the newly cut edges. It worked perfectly, but was just barely long enough. If I were to do it over again, I would have cut the long leg about 1/4" longer. These Allen keys are quite inexpensive, and cutting one down makes more sense than, say, removing the seat.

Last edited by JustinCase; 10-30-2018 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Typo
The following 2 users liked this post by JustinCase:
brownfox (02-23-2021), sfNative (11-11-2020)
Old 10-30-2018, 09:49 PM
  #11  
jhbrennan
Rennlist Member
 
jhbrennan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austin
Posts: 6,571
Received 81 Likes on 73 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by JustinCase
While some people report being able to loosen the two 5mm Allen bolts required to remove the driver's side sill with a standard Allen key, I suspect different seat configurations make loosening the rear bolt much more difficult, if not impossible. It also may depend on the length of the short leg of your Allen key. In my case, I have a manually-adjusted driver's seat, and I found it impossible to loosen the back bolt with my particular 5mm key because the short leg could not reach the front of the bolt. The seat interfered with the key, making it impossible to use the long leg no matter the seat position. So I cut the long leg of the Allen key down (see photo) to a total of about 2", polished the end with sandpaper, and slightly eased the newly cut edges. It worked perfectly, but was just barely long enough. If I were to do it over again, I would have cut the long leg about 1/4" longer. These Allen keys are quite inexpensive, and cutting one down makes more sense than, say, removing the seat.
Good tip...but even better yet (at least for me) was to use a ball end 5mm wrench. Makes getting the wrench into the bolt very easy. Also, make sure you don't remove the bolt - just need to loosen. BTW - no photo.
The following 2 users liked this post by jhbrennan:
brownfox (02-23-2021), sfNative (11-11-2020)
Old 11-28-2018, 12:27 PM
  #12  
door2416
Instructor
 
door2416's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Toledo,Ohio
Posts: 179
Received 13 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bbachan
Hello Fellas,

Do you guys know where I can purchase the trunk switch. I'm looking for a replacement. Mine broke off. I'd appreciated it if guys can direct me somewhere or know if someone is selling a used one.

Thanks
Bruce B
Toronto, Canada
Look on ebay. I found mine listed for 69.00 or make offer. I ended up paying 65 with free shipping. (new OEM) The prices for these are all over depending on where you buy from.
Old 12-16-2018, 04:36 PM
  #13  
Clinton Ave
Advanced
 
Clinton Ave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 67
Received 32 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Quadcammer
not bad to do.

5. Flip the sill over and look at the switch unit. There are 4 tabs that you need to pry on to slide the switch out. Really I just wedge a pick or very small flat head in there. Once you get the first side done, it goes easily.
Very helpful. I'm to this step right here. Can anyone provide additional guidance on this step? I'm having trouble locating these tabs as there appears to be several options. Thanks!

Edit - I finally figured it out. I had to pry it from the top side (where the levers face you) and order to get it out. Once pried, I put tooth pics in place to hold the areas open as I jimmied the piece out.

Last edited by Clinton Ave; 12-16-2018 at 05:42 PM.
Old 12-20-2018, 11:36 AM
  #14  
MOXY_997.2
Intermediate
 
MOXY_997.2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 45 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

I am getting ready to replace my switch too. Do you pull up on the sill or out? The pic makes it seem like you pull out (I am basing this on the black slotted tabs that are secured by the alan screws, seems like it should pull out).

Thanks
Old 12-29-2018, 05:34 PM
  #15  
MOXY_997.2
Intermediate
 
MOXY_997.2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 45 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Wow, that was easy. Keep in mind that the switch being replaced is pushed through (after releasing retaining devices) the piece holding it and not pulled through.

Thanks for the guidance.


Quick Reply: DIY for replacing the trunk / engine lid switch



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 07:34 AM.