nwGTS

Hi all,

This is my very first post so I apologize ahead of time if this is in the incorrect forum. Simply direct me on where to go if this is incorrect and I'll follow up there.

I'm in the market for my first Porsche and over the last year and a half have zoned in specifically on a manual 2012 997.2 GTS (RWD). There have been a few available from the Porsche website over that time and I'm finally in the financial position to pull the trigger.

I'd say I'm pretty learned about the options on this particular model, what separates it from the S and GT3 and even what separates it from the 991 (mostly thanks to you all after lurking here for the past year or so).

My questions revolve around what I should be paying for this model with around 10-20k on the clock and what to look out for (if anything) with regard to maintenance (hard to do with so few miles). Prices range from $69k to $80k for very similar versions of this car with similar mileage. It's going to be a summer only car that I'll track maybe once a month, garage the rest of the year and plan to own indefinitely.

Thanks for any advice as I work toward pulling the trigger in the next month or so.

MarkG123

I agree with you prices for these cars span quite a range that I don't understand. I own a manual white GTS with aero package and 9000 miles. I plan to list the car in a couple of weeks once I find time to take some pictures. Having owned a couple 997 GT3's, the GTS is a great fit between a hard core GT3 and a 911 S.

Mark

ltcjmramos

I came out of a 6GT3 (10 year ownership), and, if you will track the car monthly, highly recommend you go for a 7GT3. As noted, the GTS is a nice compromise between the S and the GT3, but why compromise?

I assume you would seek a GTS with Sport or Sport Chrono Plus. If so, you should find yourself operating the car in Sport mode all the time, which will approximate the suspension of the GT3. Yes, the GTS may be more "luxurious," but I'd go for the driving experience of the GT3 any day. The only reason I drive a GTS now, which I enjoy, is because I no longer track, and have an ankle that is fused, which makes it a bit clumsy to drive smoothly on the track.

BTW, I paid at the high end of your noted range, fully optioned (incl PDK) and with 40k miles, but CPOd.

SpeedyD

My only advice is to look closely at the cars in that price range (hopefully some are near where you live? I know they aren't that common...) then figure out why, in terms of condition and features, they are priced across that wide range. It usually will become evident quite quickly, whether aesthetics, condition, or options, and you should be able to develop your own preferences and willingness to pay (or not pay) for those features.

Another word of advice -- anything that looks too good to be true, is likely too good to be true.

nwGTS

Aint that the truth.

Some cars are priced higher but have fewer options and similar mileage though it's usually due to one being a warm weather car vs cold weather and a lot of the time it's the locking differential option that sets them apart so much.

There have been precisely zero manual, RWD, GTS coupes '11 or '12 in the Chicagoland area since I've started looking over a year ago. Most are east coast with a few spattered in the west and south. That leads me to the buying process.

After finding the car I want, I'd like to get a PPI done but every car I've been looking at is on a Porsche dealer lot and I'm remote. I wouldn't trust the dealer to do a PPI on its own car. What's the best way to go about acquiring a PPI when you're remote? I saw a few topics in here about this and none of them clearly laid our how to do this.

ltcjmramos

I didn't bother with a PPI given CPO and purchase from a well-regarded Porsche dealer. Most will advise a PPI regardless, but I consciously decided not. Same with the GT3 I bought in '05, CPO, no PPI.

nwGTS

For example... Here's one I am seriously considering.

https://conshohocken.porschedealer.c...85988/info.php

It does have the rear diff lock which would put it in the higher price category and the mileage is higher than average but not terrible. I really like the red accents and am indifferent about the center-lock delete. I think center-locks looks the biz but know they are harder to maintain and use especially if tracking with different tire sets. But 10k miles a year makes me think it was driven year round in the snow (this is in PA and the carfax shows new tires mounted in Nov '13 at 16k miles.

How would I go about getting a PPI for this car to see if it has had any winter driving that may be problematic down the road?

nwGTS

I've thought that maybe I was worrying too much but having lived in NYC for 5 years before Chicago I've become jaded and now will go to the ends of the Earth to make sure I'm not getting hosed.

What would be the best way to tell that it wasn't at least overrevved a lot? Turns out the title was issued as a corporate vehicle and I don't know how that makes a difference in ownership behavior.

ltcjmramos

I'd start with posting in Off Topic and Region forums asking for referrals. Also, identify the PCA region where the car is located, and ask there.

My car was more equipped than this one. I'll send you my build sheet in comparison.

nwGTS

Great idea. I'll follow up this thread there.

Thanks for the info.

eviligloo

Ask the dealer to show you the DME report which tracks overrevs. Since it's a CPO car it shouldn't have many overrevs. They can't CPO a car if it has it.

Personally I'd put this one down as a plus. I considered this one when I was looking for a car because it's hard to find a GTS without center lock wheels.

SmokinGTS

My buddy decided to go a different way but there was a nice 12 GTS cab in Florida at Jenkins Auto sales 73k. I thought the price was right for the option package it had. If this is a summer car get a cab.

nwGTS

I'm not a cab fan. I like the look of the coupes and it's more difficult to track a cab. They do 'baby' better though.

eviligloo

Actually the opposite. The seats in the cab are more upright than a coupe which makes it even harder to fit a carseat in the back.

UT911GTS

Be patient now

that you have your finances in order. I was in the same boat late last year and vetted a few cars until I found the exact one I was looking for. Bought an 11 CPO from a dealer in Texas but I still had it PPI'd by a local indy. $250 well spent as he went through the car and gave me a detailed report with pictures. I also wanted a car from down south so it never had to be driven in the snow and salt.

I even go the sport buckets! The car is awesome. Hope to hold on to this one even when I get my 991 GT3! Enjoy!