So I've searched this topic and I think I know what I need now but just want to confirm with the suspension gurus.

I lowered my car with springs recently, about a 1.2" drop front and rear. From what I understand, to be sure I can return to stock alignment settings, I should get dogbones and toe links. Is that correct?

And one last question, which ones are generally considered high quality that are proven to last?

 

Is important to get an alignment after lowering if you haven't done so already. I'd only invest in extra hardware if they can't get it close to stock settings.

I put GMG springs on my turbo, and didn't need anything more to get back to standard alignment.

 

Just installed H&R's on my car, getting alignment hopefully yet this week. I'll post back what numbers I'm able to get stock parts, PASM.

 

I had an alignment done after they installed my springs. I didn't receive a report and they didn't say anything afterward about it being off but I'm going to see if they have the report to verify.

I plan to have another alignment done soon when I get my new tires installed and in case the springs settled a bit so I'll be sure to get a report at that time.

What's considered normal? Anyone using the GT3 alignment specs post lowering?

 

Got mine done today. Totally stock C2S other than H&R lowering springs with PASM.

Front
Camber -1.5 to -1.7 max each side

Rear
Camber -2.1 to -2.2 each side

That's about the max give or take on the stock front. The rear, I don't know max is...it was right there where I wanted it when I brought the car in so we didn't change it. (about -.5 degrees more camber in the rear vs. the front is what I was shooting for).

Front Toe in + .04 per side.
Rear Toe in + .16 per side.

Caster is what it is, around 8 degrees give or take, not really adjustable but changes with the toe and camber slightly.

I took it to a non dealer with a Hunter alignment machine. These guys let me stand out in the garage with them and discuss the setup and how it was being changed. So that was cool. On the other hand, the jack that was built into this particular rack was not able to rotate into position to jack my car because my car was too low, and their portable jacks were also not low enough to raise it up to, to unweight the suspension and adjust the top camber strut bolts to get the camber EXACT. It was close, within .1-.2 side to side so I said just leave it. He did tell me to let the springs settle, drive the car some and bring it back. So I'll bump the one side slightly on camber on my lift and take it back to them or just throw my low profile jack in go back at some point. Never could have done this with the dealer!

Honestly if I had the setup I could do this myself. Wishing I had a Smart Camber device to check against this new alignment numbers so I could see how accurate those things are.

 

So no dogbones or toe links necessary, which is what I was hoping to hear. I went to an independent shop as well. When my new Michelin PSS tires arrive I'll be back for a final alignment and I'll get a report at that time.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

Right, that just the stock adjusters. So unless you need more camber, then that's roughly what's available. Track guys seem to be more in the -3 range or more. As it is, with the road dust on the fresh tires, you can see the inside rears are going to wear more.

 

The only issue with getting a proper street alignment with lowering springs is the possibility of not being able to reduce rear camber while keeping the toe in spec. As you reduce camber, you will naturally add positive toe (in), which is the real tire killer.
You shouldn't have an issue with H&Rs installed (my 997 has them) while trying to keep approx -1.5 degrees, but every car settles differently. If so, rear toe links will be all that is required, and that will only be the case if the person performing the alignment is unable to adjust with the rear of the car lifted, or unloaded, as a last ditch effort to set it properly, because this always makes a difference.

 

Thanks for the advice Ptech1. That's actually my main concer, premature tire wear.