sidwin

one thing you have to factor in is the durametric cable to reset the maintenance light.

my mechanic works at a dealership and they had a boxter come in and he changed the oil. he called porsche dealership to reset the light and they told him $150

as little as i drive my car, i'll probably have them change it ever year while it is still under CPO and FWS. that way if anything comes up, they'll have the service record. one thing that i won't do is change the plugs before i hit 40k. i don't care if the plugs are 10 years old I'm dreading that job considering the cost of coil packs too. i might pay a little more and have the engine dropped and change the clutch while i'm at it and tap the coolant pipes

Crazy enough brake job on this car cost $1600 in materials. i used to complain about paying that much for a clutch job in my supra for a twin disk clutch

Sid

Dartmouth

Totally agree with sidwin. Consider this just finished service: Dealer quote: Front Brakes & multi point inspection $1226., (dealer wanted to install new rotors, pads, sensors, hardware), and Brake system fluid exchange $168., oil change $313 Porsche supplied filter VS independent Porsche service; front brake pads (advised rotors were perfect and didn't need replacing or cutting), new brake sensors, oil change (my filter from Suncoast), all 4 brake fluid change, All 4 wheels balanced, Total $715. I will never use the dealer for service again.

msuheritage

175 with oil at my dealer. I also am having them do the changes until the cpo is over. I think 175 is pretty fair when comparing them to other dealers.

Ezkill

Always happy to share - William E. Benoit Independent Porsche Repair. If you call for an appointment be warned that he's extremely intelligent, sarcastic and witty

Iceter

This will be fine for the purposes of keeping your warranty but keep your parts and oil receipts in case you have to make a warranty claim later.

For now, I am having my oil changed at the dealer as long as I'm under the CPO, but that's about to time out. That's primarily because I'm lazy but also since this is my first P-car, and my '09 is the first model year with the DI engine and the PDK, I want everything to be by the book just in case I have a catatrophic failure while under warranty or just after. ...Especially considering what I've read about Porsche's responses to the IMS debacle. I am not going to give Porsche any reason to deny coverage.

I'm actually looking forward to putting the car on the lift and changing my own oil after the CPO is over.

Edgy01

Document your change and use a cut down 5-gallon plastic container (like an old paint container or chlorine tab container). You can even reinstall a handle but just lower down on the sides.

It's so easy--and takes very little time. Taking one of those containers, add precisely 9 quarts of water to it and mark the inside--now you know how tall to leave the container. (If your engine holds more, adjust accordingly). Scribe on the inside water every two quarts so that later you know how much you drained. Only add back what you actually removed.

Using an allen wrench and a 1/2 inch drive (for torque) open it up. Let the hot drain plug fall into the container--don't try to catch it. You will make a mess and it's hot! Always have a spare drain plug.

After sufficient draining (5-10 minutes) reinstall the cold plug with a fresh crush ring. ONLY add back the same amount of oil that you removed from the engine. This is important. Many shops overfill and that's never good.

After you have refilled the engine, start it up and check underneath to make sure you have no leaks. These water cooled engines are extremely tight, and should not leak or seep ANYTHING. (Years ago was an entirely different issue).

Again, document the change. I dispose of my oil at my local recycling center or you can take it to any motor oil retailer--they are by law supposed to take back any used oil for recycling.

I have a 100,000 mile, 10 year extended warranty. If my warranty company wants to debate my service, they can take it up with my attorneys.

Mumbles

Part of the reason that oil change at dealership is expensive is that usually when they get around to servicing your car for an oil change the oil temp is down, so they take your car out and get the oil temp up so it drains properly 15-20min drive. The it takes about 45 mins to fully fully drain before they will re-fill.

Hoist time and shop time is allocated in oil change pricing.

fresh-popcorn

My Autoparts store has a large Used Oil tank located in the back of their building and you can even dump the oil when they are closed. Its self service so you can take the container that you used back with you.

Ags 911

I bought my 09 in 2012. My first service including oil change was at 40k. I was charged $800 at my dealer. I was told I needed new rotors, pads, and sensors, which would be another $2200. Since that visit, I have not been back for maintenance work. I have changed my oil/filter, air filter, changed all rotors, pads, sensors, and bleeded brakes and clutch. I have only spent $1,150 total thus far, which is a third what I would have spent at dealer.

KNS

I recently changed the window regulator on my BMW 325, it involves removing the airbag in the door. It was an easy job and I followed all the steps for airbag removal (done a few them in the past with no issues). Well, somehow I had an airbag light when I was done - only the dealers and some (not all) independents have the equipment to reset the airbag light.

I called the local BMW dealer: $100 to reset the light. No thank you...

I called a BMW garage and explained my problem and he said bring in on by. He plugged it in and reset the light in about a minute. He says: "No charge, have a nice day". He just gained a new customer if I never need a garage. That's how you do business!

Petza914

I installed the oil change update kit on both my 997s that's avaiable from LN Engineering, Pelican, and maybe Automotion. It includes a Fumoto quick drain oil valve that replaces your drain plug, and and adapter so you can use a spin-on metal oil filter. The Mobil 1 filter is an M1-107.

Advantages:

1. a flick of the release on the drain valve and oil comes out in a nice straight stream directly into the catch funnel that's depositing it into your old oil jugs. One jug starts getting full, close the valve, switch jugs, reopen the valve until it's all out. I have a rolling drain pan on my lift so it's a one shot deal.
2. When I did my first oil changes without the Fumoto valve, even with the oil fill cap on, the oil comes out fast - barely kept up with my really big funnel that has about a 1" opening on the end - filled almost all the way up to overflowing right before the fill rate and drain rate equalized. The drain rate is much more controlled through the valve, even with the oil fill cap open.
3. I never liked the concept of the OEM plastic oil filter housing when you consider how many heat cycles that's subjected too and how plastic deteriorates over time - just look at the Cayenne coolant pipes issue. I'm much more comforatble with a metal spin on filter. I cut these open with a race filter cutter to inspect the filter element during changes. I also adhere a magnet to the bottom of the oil filter to capture and trap any magnetic particles in the bottom of the filter, similar to what the magnetic drainplug would do.

I have the skid plate on my 997 so I had to enlarge the hole around the drain plug opening to work with the drain valve, but it was much easier to do that than remove the skid plate for every oil change.

With my current setup, oil changes are a breeze - no way I'm paying someone $100-$250 to do this, and then possibly not fill the oil to the proper level afterward. Photo of drain valve and magnet on oil filter are attached.

espanolie

seems excessive with you providing the oil

cairo94507

OK- do it while having a cup of coffee and it is 20 minutes. You get the point, no? No need to jack it up, just roll it back to the edge of the garage and drain plug easily reached and removed. Open the engine lid and remove the filter canister, remove old filter and wipe out and install new one. Reinstall drain plug and fill with oil. Perhaps the fill with oil part takes the longest.

raspritz

In the U.S. one cannot "dump oil". Almost all of the automotive parts chain stores accept oil for recycling.

myw

120$ taken to my indi, i supply oil+filter.