Jubert39

FWIW- I dont like to use the crescent wrench directly on the piston b/c it may compress unevenly or nicked the metal part. Instead I just use a piece of metal in between to protect the piston and to compress it nice and even. Probably overkill, but got that advice from a rally mechanic.

ajayabb

Or just compress using the old pads

mkaunitz

quick note here you need to unbolt the brake line carrier as well when you do this so you dont risk damaging the solid lines that go to the caliper. just did mine for the first time last week

kouzman

+1 on the S. I just did my rear pads and i remember when i wanted to sell the pads i had as fronts for the 997.2 non-S were th same for the rear S as per your post. Once you do it once it then becomes a 10 minute process per side!

Jubert39

good point

scorcherjf

I had read that the bolts need to be changed every time as well. Where would be the best place for one to get new bolts?

Jeanmarie97

here the pic of a tool to push back 4 pistons

rbennett

I want one of these, where did you source this tool at jeanmarie97?

Glyndellis

I would also r commend the Lisle 29100 pad spreader. Easy to use and fairly inexpensive

Bruce In Philly

Doing my own pads for two cars and the occasional friend's car, I am not sure that tool is worth it to me. A couple small pieces of wood and a large screwdriver does it for me. I guess if I was a track rat, then maybe.

Nice tool though.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

nwGTS

I proudly changed pads at all four corners wheels off to wheels on in 39 minutes between track sessions with nothing but a floor jack, cordless impact driver, torque wrench, needle nose pliers, big fat flat blade screwdriver, awl, hammer and paint stirrer.
Stick a wood paint stirrer (free at Home Depot) under the pistons and place the screwdriver on that. Place a rag between the rotor and lever point of the screwdriver. Then both pistons retract at the same rate/time (or all three if a 6 pot caliper).

318touring

Yes, thread revival!

Just a quick question, what would be the safest way to separate the caliper from its mounting point. It is obviously rather hard to separate and I don't want to shake the car too much in case it falls off the jacks.

Rubber mallet would work, slowly?

Viperfish

The factory brakes (rear) have a thin plate adhered to the pad. Is it necessary to keep it on? It's screwed to the pistons.

mhm993

[QUOTE=318touring;14713042]Yes, thread revival!

Just a quick question, what would be the safest way to separate the caliper from its mounting point. It is obviously rather hard to separate and I don't want to shake the car too much in case it falls off the jacks.

Rubber mallet would work, slowly?[/QUOTE

it should just come off. The rotor might need a whack with a hammer, however.