Buddhamonk

Dubbin,

I wish i could afford coilovers, they really look much better because you can dial the rear a bit lower than the front. With the h&r the rear still remains higher than the front. Certainly does not help with front lip clearance, youve got the drop and offset set up perfectly

Dubbin'

Imagine that you saved 1,000$ doing this yourself? Not only is it rewarding to DIY you saved good money. Thumbs up buddy.

Mark

Dubbin'

I did end up going a bit lower in the rear... I am all the way down on the front coilovers which ended up being about 1.5' drop and on the rear I went down about 1.75-1.8'. I like having the car sitting flatter rather than raked, but that's only personal preference. Even though I altered the rake I was still able to get the corner balancing within spec. 39% in front which is very close to how it is set up from the factory...

Mark

A few bonus pictures since I just got my ramp blockers for the lift and I can get the DD tucked under there

Buddhamonk

I agree regarding the rake. I actually loves how the car rode when I had done just the rear and stock front (went for a short drive)

I had ton of clearance up front and the ride was confortable. Now with the front installed, it's a lot stiffer ride. I feel a lot more of the bumps etc. With PASM on it's actually teeth rattling now but I can't complain because the lack of body roll with PASM off is so worth it. The car handles like a proper sports car.

Dubbin'

I would say the coilovers are the same. With PASM on I would say it is so stiff that it's not suitable for street driving. If there are any bumps in a corner it feels like the wheels want to lift off and the car hops around the corners...

Mark

Chrono

That's crazy for just labor. I guess there's a premium for the safety risk.

Robocop305

Do it yourself. It's not that hard, specially with the DYI on these forums.

nwGTS

rising this thread from the dead:

Can someone confirm that these sockets will work on a 997.2 GTS w/ PASM to remove front and rear strut nuts?
Looks like they will based on the discussion here but just want the thumbs up for PoM.

21mm and 19mm Shock Strut Tools (2) Two Open Sockets
http://amzn.com/B018PWY0LO

Buddhamonk

those were the sizes needed for my .1. I assume the .2 is the same

Saaboteur

Thread revival to post pictures of my cut sockets. Had my engine builder mill out nice cuts on a pair of impact sockets. Should still be quite strong.

Also purchased some aluminum flat stock and 5mm bolts to fabricate up my own top mount washer retaining tool. Will post up photos later.

nwGTS

good job filing those edges. and be careful if you use an impact to remove the top nut. one two many turns and you'll cut that PASM wire.

Saaboteur

I wish I could take credit, my engine builder filed the edges of his own volition, but he knew that there would be wiring in there. I'm gonna try with hand tools first in any event. Hopefully my homemade tool can work nicely, but I'm not going to start fabricating that until I have the first strut out.

Saaboteur

Started on my car this evening (06 C4S). Thought I was all prepared and knew the steps, but then found that the front strut removal process is different than the 2WD cars.

I ended up removing almost the entire front suspension. I had anticipated finishing up the fronts this evening and then attack the rears tomorrow evening, but I only got through the right front corner, and even then I need to find torque specs for all the suspension arms, and torque bolts down again But on the plus side, there wasn't any fear of buggering up the front fender! The whole strut and upright just came down in one piece.

I also fabricated my own washer retaining tool. Quite rudimentary, and it wasn't strong enough to keep everything steady so I could remove the top nut with my 3/8 ratchet, so I loosened the nut with a few blips of my impact and did the rest by hand, with the tool keeping the shaft from spinning.