eibach springs install
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
eibach springs install
I just bought springs and I will be doing the install myself next week.
The car is a 997.1 C2s with PASM
I've done coilover install on many other cars before so I am pretty familiar with the process but not sure how I am going to get the top hat off the strut if there is a PASM wire there.
Here is a picture of how you would do it on a non-PASM car which is straight forward. Would I need a special tool for do it for a PASM car? Second picture shows where the wire is.
The car is a 997.1 C2s with PASM
I've done coilover install on many other cars before so I am pretty familiar with the process but not sure how I am going to get the top hat off the strut if there is a PASM wire there.
Here is a picture of how you would do it on a non-PASM car which is straight forward. Would I need a special tool for do it for a PASM car? Second picture shows where the wire is.
#2
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I think I found the answer to my question - sounds like I have to use this tool or fab one just like it using a deep socket and a metal disk grinder...
#3
my advice is take all the struts out the car.. then take them over to a shop to have them remove the springs and switch the lowering springs onto the struts.
a local shop charged me $60.. dont bother with a cheap spring compressor! its dangerous
the struts will go back into the car with no issues.. i did have to use a rubber mallet to get them into the right locations for the bolts to slip in
a local shop charged me $60.. dont bother with a cheap spring compressor! its dangerous
the struts will go back into the car with no issues.. i did have to use a rubber mallet to get them into the right locations for the bolts to slip in
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Honestly, I love monkeywrenching on cars so I take my DIY very seriously. Rent all my tools from home depot and go at it. My first suspension job years ago took two days, when I was done, I realized I forgot to put in the bumper stops. Redid the whole thing in a few hours =) It was on an acura integra when I was a teenager.
I always find an excuse to buy new tools anyway. I found these at Harbor freight. Basically need a 19mm and 21mm because the front and rear have different size strut nut
http://www.harborfreight.com/oxygen-...set-99850.html
I always find an excuse to buy new tools anyway. I found these at Harbor freight. Basically need a 19mm and 21mm because the front and rear have different size strut nut
http://www.harborfreight.com/oxygen-...set-99850.html
#6
Honestly, I love monkeywrenching on cars so I take my DIY very seriously. Rent all my tools from home depot and go at it. My first suspension job years ago took two days, when I was done, I realized I forgot to put in the bumper stops. Redid the whole thing in a few hours =) It was on an acura integra when I was a teenager. I always find an excuse to buy new tools anyway. I found these at Harbor freight. Basically need a 19mm and 21mm because the front and rear have different size strut nut http://www.harborfreight.com/oxygen-...set-99850.html
I was going to remove the struts and figure a way to get them off once I have them in hand. I spoke to one of the mechanics at AWE and he says that they do not use any specialty tool. They put the strut in a vice, use a pry bar to mobilize the top plate and they then use an open end wrench to remove the top strut nut...
Thanks,
Mark
Trending Topics
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I will document the process as i go through it. Lots of info on audi and vw forums because they have the same issue with the recessed strut nut. Lots of alternatives to the specialty tool but they don't have a stupid pasm wire so they can still use an allen wrench to stop the rod from spinning. Like you mentioned, i will probably have to use a slotted socket on the strut nut and a vice grip to hold the rod in place.
#9
I will document the process as i go through it. Lots of info on audi and vw forums because they have the same issue with the recessed strut nut. Lots of alternatives to the specialty tool but they don't have a stupid pasm wire so they can still use an allen wrench to stop the rod from spinning. Like you mentioned, i will probably have to use a slotted socket on the strut nut and a vice grip to hold the rod in place.
I might just use one of those slotted sockets on my impact just to loosen the nut without it spinning the PASM wire just to break it lose.
Mark
#10
Intermediate
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Palm Desert, CA
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a 997.1 4S and I'm doing the work this weekend and I was looking at the same information and I found this tool that seems similar to the one used in the Porsche workshop manual:
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools...and+valvetrain
I asked around but I couldn't find a store that carries the above tool here in Vancouver, BC.
Also, look at the bottom of the page where someone is using deep socket to fabricate the Porsche similar socket:
http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthr...t=28023&page=3
Good luck,
Ab
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools...and+valvetrain
I asked around but I couldn't find a store that carries the above tool here in Vancouver, BC.
Also, look at the bottom of the page where someone is using deep socket to fabricate the Porsche similar socket:
http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthr...t=28023&page=3
Good luck,
Ab
Last edited by ab996; 04-04-2014 at 03:51 PM. Reason: added my current car information
#11
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
so here are all the options that I was able to find
a dogbone wrench would clear the pasm wire but not allow you to use an impact wrench. They do come with 21mm as the biggest size
Offset wrench work as well to clear the wire and fit in the recess of the top mount. Sadly she ones at HF come in 20mm-22mm. Couldn't find on that fits the 21mm on the front. Still doesn't allow you to use an impact wrench
Go through socket set at HF are cheap but only go up to 19mm. Would be able to do the rear but not the front. Still having the issue of not being to use an impact wrench and having to hold the rod with a vice grip which I want to avoid
Finally ebay has all kinds of those specialy socket with open side. The ones for the o2 sensor at HF only comes in 7/8 SAE which equals 22mm metric and probably wouldn't be useful in this case.
This one is only $26 on ebay. 21mm. I am having a hard time finding a cheap one for the rears (19mm)
Anyway. I am probably going to buy a cheap set of black impact socket and dremel out a hole for the wire and then use an impact wrench
a dogbone wrench would clear the pasm wire but not allow you to use an impact wrench. They do come with 21mm as the biggest size
Offset wrench work as well to clear the wire and fit in the recess of the top mount. Sadly she ones at HF come in 20mm-22mm. Couldn't find on that fits the 21mm on the front. Still doesn't allow you to use an impact wrench
Go through socket set at HF are cheap but only go up to 19mm. Would be able to do the rear but not the front. Still having the issue of not being to use an impact wrench and having to hold the rod with a vice grip which I want to avoid
Finally ebay has all kinds of those specialy socket with open side. The ones for the o2 sensor at HF only comes in 7/8 SAE which equals 22mm metric and probably wouldn't be useful in this case.
This one is only $26 on ebay. 21mm. I am having a hard time finding a cheap one for the rears (19mm)
Anyway. I am probably going to buy a cheap set of black impact socket and dremel out a hole for the wire and then use an impact wrench
#12
Yea those are all plausible options.... I usually get pretty creative when its all apart.
I've butchered a socket before for this type of work and DO NOT buy the black impact sockets to cut up. Those are hard as ****!!! You need to get like the cheapest walmart deep socket you can find. And forget about the dremel.... Your going to need to pull out the grinder...
Mark
I've butchered a socket before for this type of work and DO NOT buy the black impact sockets to cut up. Those are hard as ****!!! You need to get like the cheapest walmart deep socket you can find. And forget about the dremel.... Your going to need to pull out the grinder...
Mark
#13
I have a 997.1 4S and I'm doing the work this weekend and I was looking at the same information and I found this tool that seems similar to the one used in the Porsche workshop manual: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools...and+valvetrain I asked around but I couldn't find a store that carries the above tool here in Vancouver, BC. Also, look at the bottom of the page where someone is using deep socket to fabricate the Porsche similar socket: http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthr...t=28023&page=3 Good luck, Ab
From what I understand it is used to immobilize the top plate which shouldn't be that hard other wise with a pry bar or something. I wonder if holding the actual strut shaft is actually an issue.
I seriously would not worry too much, once the strut is out the nut should be relatively easy to remove... These cars are babied, nothing is rusted or seized on there...
Mark
#14
Intermediate
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Palm Desert, CA
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Porsche tool to counter the top of the strut is $190 something. There must be a cheaper option. According to the workshop manual:
"
8. On PASM spring struts, before tightening the lock nut, align the stop plate -2- offset 45° from
direction of travel marking -Arrows A- of the supporting mount.
The value: 45° + - 2° is necessary so that the two grooves of the stop plate (cut-outs for countering) are
positioned over or between the recesses (pockets in the rubber part) which lie below.
"
See images:
http://workshop-manuals.com/porsche/...age-681007.png
"
8. On PASM spring struts, before tightening the lock nut, align the stop plate -2- offset 45° from
direction of travel marking -Arrows A- of the supporting mount.
The value: 45° + - 2° is necessary so that the two grooves of the stop plate (cut-outs for countering) are
positioned over or between the recesses (pockets in the rubber part) which lie below.
"
See images:
http://workshop-manuals.com/porsche/...age-681007.png
#15
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Can't wait to get the struts out and see how hard it is to remove that nut. Honestly, how old the car is has very little to do with the amount of torque it takes to remove it. I've done coilovers on nearly brand new cars and without the ability to stop the shaft to rotate freely, you can apply all the torque you want to the nut and it'll just spin, unless you have an impact wrench which is why this is so tough with the PASM wire in the way. With the ability to use a 7mm allen wrench to hold the end of the shaft, this whole procedure is a breeze.
I plan to to hold the shaft with a vice grip and protect it using an old leather belt to prevent scoring of the shaft.
I plan to to hold the shaft with a vice grip and protect it using an old leather belt to prevent scoring of the shaft.