Buddhamonk

I just bought springs and I will be doing the install myself next week.
The car is a 997.1 C2s with PASM
I've done coilover install on many other cars before so I am pretty familiar with the process but not sure how I am going to get the top hat off the strut if there is a PASM wire there.

Here is a picture of how you would do it on a non-PASM car which is straight forward. Would I need a special tool for do it for a PASM car? Second picture shows where the wire is.

Buddhamonk

I think I found the answer to my question - sounds like I have to use this tool or fab one just like it using a deep socket and a metal disk grinder...

porka

my advice is take all the struts out the car.. then take them over to a shop to have them remove the springs and switch the lowering springs onto the struts.

a local shop charged me $60.. dont bother with a cheap spring compressor! its dangerous

the struts will go back into the car with no issues.. i did have to use a rubber mallet to get them into the right locations for the bolts to slip in

myw

looking forward to this, i have heard that for the 997.1's the pro-kits are the springs to buy.

Buddhamonk

Honestly, I love monkeywrenching on cars so I take my DIY very seriously. Rent all my tools from home depot and go at it. My first suspension job years ago took two days, when I was done, I realized I forgot to put in the bumper stops. Redid the whole thing in a few hours =) It was on an acura integra when I was a teenager.

I always find an excuse to buy new tools anyway. I found these at Harbor freight. Basically need a 19mm and 21mm because the front and rear have different size strut nut

http://www.harborfreight.com/oxygen-...set-99850.html

Dubbin'

Would be cool to know how the install went. I am kind of in the same boat. I will be installing my Bilstein coilovers once the snow melts and Nothing about the process phased me except for the strut nut with the PASM wire sticking out.... I have the Porsche repair manual and there are special tools for this job although I couldn't seem to find them anywhere online. The socket used is similar to what you found at Harbor Freight.... A deep socket which is slotted to allow the wire to pass through and the other tool is a large vice grip style tool which holds the top plate so it does not turn.

I was going to remove the struts and figure a way to get them off once I have them in hand. I spoke to one of the mechanics at AWE and he says that they do not use any specialty tool. They put the strut in a vice, use a pry bar to mobilize the top plate and they then use an open end wrench to remove the top strut nut...

Thanks,
Mark

USMC_DS1

Good thread... likely a further project for me as well. I used that exact set of HF tools to remove my O2 censors.

Buddhamonk

I will document the process as i go through it. Lots of info on audi and vw forums because they have the same issue with the recessed strut nut. Lots of alternatives to the specialty tool but they don't have a stupid pasm wire so they can still use an allen wrench to stop the rod from spinning. Like you mentioned, i will probably have to use a slotted socket on the strut nut and a vice grip to hold the rod in place.

Dubbin'

I am not a big fan of holding the shock shaft with a vice grip but sometimes that it the only way... I've done it in the past and no matter what you do, it will damage the shaft. Just make sure you are grasping the shaft as high up as you can not to damage a part of the shaft that actually goes into the shock because that can lead to leakage and premature wear on the strut. In the past i've always worked on VW and Audi (that's almost all that I've owned) and I would simply use an impact wrench to get the nut off and never had an issue. When I was 'less' equipped I was using the allen key or vice grips to mobilize the shaft.

I might just use one of those slotted sockets on my impact just to loosen the nut without it spinning the PASM wire just to break it lose.

Mark

ab996

I have a 997.1 4S and I'm doing the work this weekend and I was looking at the same information and I found this tool that seems similar to the one used in the Porsche workshop manual:

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools...and+valvetrain

I asked around but I couldn't find a store that carries the above tool here in Vancouver, BC.

Also, look at the bottom of the page where someone is using deep socket to fabricate the Porsche similar socket:
http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthr...t=28023&page=3

Good luck,
Ab

Buddhamonk

so here are all the options that I was able to find

a dogbone wrench would clear the pasm wire but not allow you to use an impact wrench. They do come with 21mm as the biggest size


Offset wrench work as well to clear the wire and fit in the recess of the top mount. Sadly she ones at HF come in 20mm-22mm. Couldn't find on that fits the 21mm on the front. Still doesn't allow you to use an impact wrench


Go through socket set at HF are cheap but only go up to 19mm. Would be able to do the rear but not the front. Still having the issue of not being to use an impact wrench and having to hold the rod with a vice grip which I want to avoid


Finally ebay has all kinds of those specialy socket with open side. The ones for the o2 sensor at HF only comes in 7/8 SAE which equals 22mm metric and probably wouldn't be useful in this case.

This one is only $26 on ebay. 21mm. I am having a hard time finding a cheap one for the rears (19mm)


Anyway. I am probably going to buy a cheap set of black impact socket and dremel out a hole for the wire and then use an impact wrench

Dubbin'

Yea those are all plausible options.... I usually get pretty creative when its all apart.

I've butchered a socket before for this type of work and DO NOT buy the black impact sockets to cut up. Those are hard as ****!!! You need to get like the cheapest walmart deep socket you can find. And forget about the dremel.... Your going to need to pull out the grinder...

Mark

Dubbin'

That counterhold tool does look like the one in the Porsche repair manual.... I wonder if it would work...

From what I understand it is used to immobilize the top plate which shouldn't be that hard other wise with a pry bar or something. I wonder if holding the actual strut shaft is actually an issue.

I seriously would not worry too much, once the strut is out the nut should be relatively easy to remove... These cars are babied, nothing is rusted or seized on there...

Mark

ab996

The Porsche tool to counter the top of the strut is $190 something. There must be a cheaper option. According to the workshop manual:

"
8. On PASM spring struts, before tightening the lock nut, align the stop plate -2- offset 45° from
direction of travel marking -Arrows A- of the supporting mount.
The value: 45° + - 2° is necessary so that the two grooves of the stop plate (cut-outs for countering) are
positioned over or between the recesses (pockets in the rubber part) which lie below.
"

See images:
http://workshop-manuals.com/porsche/...age-681007.png

Buddhamonk

Can't wait to get the struts out and see how hard it is to remove that nut. Honestly, how old the car is has very little to do with the amount of torque it takes to remove it. I've done coilovers on nearly brand new cars and without the ability to stop the shaft to rotate freely, you can apply all the torque you want to the nut and it'll just spin, unless you have an impact wrench which is why this is so tough with the PASM wire in the way. With the ability to use a 7mm allen wrench to hold the end of the shaft, this whole procedure is a breeze.

I plan to to hold the shaft with a vice grip and protect it using an old leather belt to prevent scoring of the shaft.