eibach springs install
#31
Here are the sockets i just butchered. I used the die grander to smooth out edge post this picture. By cutting them this way you lose alot of strength on the socket although since it will be used with an impact. I am not worried.
#32
Nordschleife Master
#33
Rennlist Member
I would like to know if a 21 mm and 19 mm tool is sold anywhere? I found the 21mm.
#35
#36
Rennlist Member
You guys are the best. Thanks!
#37
Rennlist Member
997.2 and 997s have the same strut hardware/bolts? So a 21 and 19 would suffice? Thanks
#38
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I'm in the middle of the install and I am wondering the best way to do the rear.
Here are two versions I have found online (click on the link for the second version)
http://www.digitalmemories4you.com/S...cK69x&lb=1&s=A
Seems like the second version would retain the stock alignment...maybe I am just overthinking it...but does it matter where you unbolt the dogbone, medial or lateral end...
Here are two versions I have found online (click on the link for the second version)
http://www.digitalmemories4you.com/S...cK69x&lb=1&s=A
Seems like the second version would retain the stock alignment...maybe I am just overthinking it...but does it matter where you unbolt the dogbone, medial or lateral end...
#39
Remove the dogbone completely, yes it adds another two minutes to the job, but you will appreciate the extra room to compress and wiggle out the strut. You will be doing a realignment anyway, if not, the additional toe in that is created when lowering will rapidly wear your rear tires.
Remember when re-installing the dogbone, have the suspension loaded with the weight of the car prior to tightening the bolts.
Remember when re-installing the dogbone, have the suspension loaded with the weight of the car prior to tightening the bolts.
#40
I'm in the middle of the install and I am wondering the best way to do the rear. Here are two versions I have found online (click on the link for the second version) http://www.digitalmemories4you.com/S...cK69x&lb=1&s=A Seems like the second version would retain the stock alignment...maybe I am just overthinking it...but does it matter where you unbolt the dogbone, medial or lateral end...
Mark
#41
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
How do you do that? Can you just put the jack under the rotor and compress the suspension? If I place the wheel back on and drop the car, I won't have any room to get in there and tighten the bolts
#42
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#43
True, no need to remove toe-link ball joint, you do need to unmount the sway bar to allow the suspension to drop down far enough to remove the strut.
#44
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
So it all worked out by doing the following
removed and dropped the sway bar
removed bolt from both upper control arms (dogbones) on the lateral side. Did not touch the toe link. Removed the bolt on the bottom of the strut and pulled it out.
It's going back in with the H&R but I'm surprised to see that the H&R spring is taller than the stock one. Does that look right to you guys?
removed and dropped the sway bar
removed bolt from both upper control arms (dogbones) on the lateral side. Did not touch the toe link. Removed the bolt on the bottom of the strut and pulled it out.
It's going back in with the H&R but I'm surprised to see that the H&R spring is taller than the stock one. Does that look right to you guys?
#45
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Doing the front and I seriously don't understand why I need to remove the brake caliper off the rotor. Seems like the brake lines don't get in the way at all...am I missing something.