Dubbin'

Here are the sockets i just butchered. I used the die grander to smooth out edge post this picture. By cutting them this way you lose alot of strength on the socket although since it will be used with an impact. I am not worried.

sandwedge

It is now. Removed the Techart/Eibachs and put the H&R's on instead. Just one of those personal preferences

Robocop305

I would like to know if a 21 mm and 19 mm tool is sold anywhere? I found the 21mm.

Buddhamonk

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-19mm-Sh...10535098&rt=nc

The R

Yup.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-200...ets/ES2652177/

They have 18mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm & 24mm.

Robocop305

You guys are the best. Thanks!

Robocop305

997.2 and 997s have the same strut hardware/bolts? So a 21 and 19 would suffice? Thanks

Buddhamonk

I'm in the middle of the install and I am wondering the best way to do the rear.
Here are two versions I have found online (click on the link for the second version)



http://www.digitalmemories4you.com/S...cK69x&lb=1&s=A

Seems like the second version would retain the stock alignment...maybe I am just overthinking it...but does it matter where you unbolt the dogbone, medial or lateral end...

Wolfk

Remove the dogbone completely, yes it adds another two minutes to the job, but you will appreciate the extra room to compress and wiggle out the strut. You will be doing a realignment anyway, if not, the additional toe in that is created when lowering will rapidly wear your rear tires.

Remember when re-installing the dogbone, have the suspension loaded with the weight of the car prior to tightening the bolts.

Dubbin'

No need to remove the toe link. Just remove the two upper arms and your golden.

Mark

Buddhamonk

How do you do that? Can you just put the jack under the rotor and compress the suspension? If I place the wheel back on and drop the car, I won't have any room to get in there and tighten the bolts

Buddhamonk

Interesting - that's a third version yet but probably the easiest if you don't have to undo the ball joint of the toe-link

Wolfk

Exactly, place jack under rotor and load suspension, this goes for any other rubber mounted suspension link that you are reassembling.
True, no need to remove toe-link ball joint, you do need to unmount the sway bar to allow the suspension to drop down far enough to remove the strut.

Buddhamonk

So it all worked out by doing the following

removed and dropped the sway bar
removed bolt from both upper control arms (dogbones) on the lateral side. Did not touch the toe link. Removed the bolt on the bottom of the strut and pulled it out.

It's going back in with the H&R but I'm surprised to see that the H&R spring is taller than the stock one. Does that look right to you guys?

Buddhamonk

Doing the front and I seriously don't understand why I need to remove the brake caliper off the rotor. Seems like the brake lines don't get in the way at all...am I missing something.