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997 dead battery / key stuck / power to fuse panel terminal doesn't work

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Old 10-22-2014, 08:21 AM
  #31  
jhbrennan
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Originally Posted by Doug Rasor
I too suffered the Dead Battery problem. Mine was SO dead, no click click; no nothing. I followed the manual's directions and clipped a new battery to the fuse box red pull-out terminal and door latch ground. Heard a faint click; but lid still wouldn't open. Talked to my Porsche advisor who told me the 12V battery voltage wouldn't be sufficient to pop the lid. He told me to get a Jump box. They roughly put out 14 volts. Sure enough; hooked up the jump box and BOOM; lid opened.
I've found that if I use the manual procedure using the pull-out terminal and a battery, the hood will open if I use the key remote to open. If the release on the door sill just clicks, the remote button seems to be able to open it. In fact, in re-reading the manual, the directions say to use the remote.
Old 10-22-2014, 03:40 PM
  #32  
johnireland
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All pointing the to absurdity of not having an easily accessible manual frunk release. Or having an electrical one to begin with. We are in the age of deminishing returns from our technology.
Old 10-22-2014, 11:25 PM
  #33  
mlv_250
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Here's an option...

Frunk


Rear
Old 10-26-2014, 01:55 PM
  #34  
peace hunter
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Mlv_250 did you add the wire to access the frunk?

Robert
Old 10-26-2014, 05:29 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by peace hunter
Mlv_250 did you add the wire to access the frunk?

Robert
Hi Robert,

I bought from Home Depot a cable a couple of feet long from their bin to extend both front and back pulls. Also bought a crimping tool to attach the home made cable pulls with the porsche cables (rear and frunk).

Rear so much easier to extend/attach the cable than the front. In the rear, the work is all done outside of the wheel well area. Once the cables are attached, just thread it from the rear passenger light into the wheel well area.

Much of the work to extend the frunk cable is done within the wheel well area. Not much room in this area to work making it very difficult to compress/crimp the cables together.

Wish I had taken pix for the job.

-Matt
Old 10-17-2015, 10:03 PM
  #36  
remik
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In my case, I removed my battery and then the hood was shut! So I had to search for that emergency frunk cable in my 2008 997. Initially I took off the sidemarker light, but could not see anything through that tiny hole. After removing the driver side front wheel well shield (without removing the wheel), I found a 3" cable. I had to pull with locking pliers, and bingo, hood latch released. Note, I could not remove the wheel to make more room because the lug nut lock was stowed in the frunk. There were 3 screws underneath, and 4 on the side. To slip it out, rotate it 90 degrees clockwise looking forward as a driver. After restoring power, I had to electronically unlock/release the hood (with key or cabin button) so the mechanism would allow the latch to fully engage again, otherwise the dash will report "Hood open" in red text, and it won't close entirely. Also, the emergency cable dislodged the inner hood fuzzy wall liner, so I had to fudge that back in, see images attached.
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Old 10-18-2015, 02:24 AM
  #37  
Racetwin2
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I have a Ctek trickle charger and installed this Quick connector. It has a charge indicator and I always have the actual connector outside the hood (underneath the hood just behind the wipers) just in case battery should go flat. I can't recharge a flat battery with the charger but I should be able to get enough power to open doors, open frunk etc.
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Old 10-18-2015, 03:31 AM
  #38  
ADias
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Originally Posted by Racetwin2
I have a Ctek trickle charger and installed this Quick connector. It has a charge indicator and I always have the actual connector outside the hood (underneath the hood just behind the wipers) just in case battery should go flat. I can't recharge a flat battery with the charger but I should be able to get enough power to open doors, open frunk etc.
Yes!
Old 10-18-2015, 10:06 AM
  #39  
Petza914
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Originally Posted by Racetwin2
I have a Ctek trickle charger and installed this Quick connector. It has a charge indicator and I always have the actual connector outside the hood (underneath the hood just behind the wipers) just in case battery should go flat. I can't recharge a flat battery with the charger but I should be able to get enough power to open doors, open frunk etc.
Yup, me too, but I use a Battery Tender brand so the connector looks a little different. It's the little black thing hidden in the front upper bumper vent grill for the center radiator on the driver's side. It's a little tough to see unless you enlarge the photo. But the wires go directly back to the battery.
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Old 10-18-2015, 05:13 PM
  #40  
jhbrennan
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I use the same pigtail device for charging also...but if installed it still wouldn't have helped "Remik" since he had taken the battery out.
Old 10-18-2015, 06:31 PM
  #41  
ADias
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Originally Posted by jhbrennan
I use the same pigtail device for charging also...but if installed it still wouldn't have helped "Remik" since he had taken the battery out.
Yes it would. Even without the battery a maintainer connected to the cigarette lighter would supply voltage to open the trunk relay-controlled lock.
Old 10-19-2015, 07:57 AM
  #42  
jhbrennan
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Originally Posted by ADias
Yes it would. Even without the battery a maintainer connected to the cigarette lighter would supply voltage to open the trunk relay-controlled lock.
Have you tried this? I thought without a battery the vehicle electrical continuity was interrupted...but my electrical knowledge is nil. BTW, other folks have reported that even with a dead battery in line, the battery maintainer connected through the cigarette lighter doesn't provide enough juice to pop the trunk.
Old 10-19-2015, 01:09 PM
  #43  
ADias
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Originally Posted by jhbrennan
Have you tried this? I thought without a battery the vehicle electrical continuity was interrupted...but my electrical knowledge is nil. BTW, other folks have reported that even with a dead battery in line, the battery maintainer connected through the cigarette lighter doesn't provide enough juice to pop the trunk.
Removing a battery does not cut any wires...
Old 10-19-2015, 01:20 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ADias
Removing a battery does not cut any wires...
Obviously no wires are cut...but the battery is missing so there's no continuity between the positive and negative - I guess if I understand you then that doesn't matter.
Old 10-19-2015, 01:25 PM
  #45  
Petza914
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If the battery mantainer pigtail is connected directly to the positive and negative battery connection cables, it's just like having a battery in the car once 12v is supplied to it (with the caveat that the wires are small and won't support a heavy amp load like starting the car), but for popping the hood release it works just like the battery is installed, it just happens to be physically outside the vehicle.


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