Spacers...wobble...
Again, I don't think there's a wheel out there that sets up flush with the fender like many want it. Both the 997 GT3 and GT3RS were shipped from the factory with 5mm spacers on the rears so how bad can it be from a performance standpoint?
Either way, I've accomplished a net reduction of about 6 lbs of unsprung weight per corner and in the process also got exactly the look I was after. But you think this is foolishness since I could have gained 6 lbs and 10 ounces per corner had I skipped the 10 ounce spacers for the sake of looks. Whatever...
Either way, I've accomplished a net reduction of about 6 lbs of unsprung weight per corner and in the process also got exactly the look I was after. But you think this is foolishness since I could have gained 6 lbs and 10 ounces per corner had I skipped the 10 ounce spacers for the sake of looks. Whatever...

And don't try to compare a factory installed item to your after market installation of parts. (Even if they are EOM) Would you like to compare a factory turboed car to an aftermarket car? Which one has fewer problems. (Don't lie now, be honest)
And while we are at it, let's ask all the racing teams how many of them keep the spacers. (None in case you are wondering.) They use wheels that fit
But if is what you want on your car. . . knock yourself out kid
And thanks for quoting me in bold , it makes me feel a little more important
I just bought ECS tuning spacers since they're not on the website yet and I got a cheap deal through 6speed....
They are going on on Monday and I hope to have much better luck as once they are installed, I cannot return them..
Sorry to hear of what's going on. I almost went with the same RSS but found them to be overpriced if bought new
They are going on on Monday and I hope to have much better luck as once they are installed, I cannot return them..
Sorry to hear of what's going on. I almost went with the same RSS but found them to be overpriced if bought new
Obviously there a LOT of guys running spacers with no issues and it seemed simple enough. I certainly won't rule out some user error, but mine definitely did not fit exactly right on the rear even being hub centric (perfect and tight to the wheel side, but some slop on and would turn freely on the hub side, not snug at all) and the front were a total free-for-all...you can see in the pic the hub tabs are not even touching the inside of the wheel to align it. I do know how to apply the proper torque and sequence to tighten properly and finish with a torque wrench. So I guess it if takes an even higher level of fiddling then whenever a wheel comes off at the dealer, flat repair, whatever, then I have to hope the guy on the end of the impact knows what to do?? The difference when removing the spacers and putting the wheels back on was night and day. The wheel will hang itself on the hub, solid and precise with NO slop, finger tight the bolts and it's immovable. The spacer mounting, $hit was flopping around, nothing precise, probably could have used another hand, etc.
Now excuse me, I've got some German rice simmering...
I replaced the RSS front spacers with another, non-OEM, set purchased from my dealer. The wobble decreased significantly, but not entirely. This week I'm going to remove the wheels and remount the spacers with the center caps off while paying particular attention to how they seat. The OEM spacers are 5mm and if I still have a wobble I'll buy them in order to allow 2mm more of the hub to extend into the rim. The new spacers have 2 screws that screw into the hub. I read some posts that said 7mm or less spacers can't be hubcentric because there isn't enough thickness to make them so. The 5mm OEM spacers aren't hubcentric.
The RSS spacers are priced a little high but remember they come with the bolts and mounting pins.
The RSS spacers are priced a little high but remember they come with the bolts and mounting pins.
That's awesome, hope they work out! Please post your results.
Obviously there a LOT of guys running spacers with no issues and it seemed simple enough. I certainly won't rule out some user error, but mine definitely did not fit exactly right on the rear even being hub centric (perfect and tight to the wheel side, but some slop on and would turn freely on the hub side, not snug at all) and the front were a total free-for-all...you can see in the pic the hub tabs are not even touching the inside of the wheel to align it. I do know how to apply the proper torque and sequence to tighten properly and finish with a torque wrench. So I guess it if takes an even higher level of fiddling then whenever a wheel comes off at the dealer, flat repair, whatever, then I have to hope the guy on the end of the impact knows what to do?? The difference when removing the spacers and putting the wheels back on was night and day. The wheel will hang itself on the hub, solid and precise with NO slop, finger tight the bolts and it's immovable. The spacer mounting, $hit was flopping around, nothing precise, probably could have used another hand, etc.
Now excuse me, I've got some German rice simmering...
Obviously there a LOT of guys running spacers with no issues and it seemed simple enough. I certainly won't rule out some user error, but mine definitely did not fit exactly right on the rear even being hub centric (perfect and tight to the wheel side, but some slop on and would turn freely on the hub side, not snug at all) and the front were a total free-for-all...you can see in the pic the hub tabs are not even touching the inside of the wheel to align it. I do know how to apply the proper torque and sequence to tighten properly and finish with a torque wrench. So I guess it if takes an even higher level of fiddling then whenever a wheel comes off at the dealer, flat repair, whatever, then I have to hope the guy on the end of the impact knows what to do?? The difference when removing the spacers and putting the wheels back on was night and day. The wheel will hang itself on the hub, solid and precise with NO slop, finger tight the bolts and it's immovable. The spacer mounting, $hit was flopping around, nothing precise, probably could have used another hand, etc.
Now excuse me, I've got some German rice simmering...

I agree it's puzzling. I sent the RSS spacers back to RSS and they're going to check them, but I don't think they'll find a manufacturing defect. They laid flat on a flat surface and I used a micrometer on them and couldn't find anything abnormal. The P dealer took the wheels off, examined everything and couldn't find a problem. The 2nd set of spacers are much better, but is still causing a slight wobble. While unlikely, I wonder if there's some difference in years/models of the cars. Mine is a 2011 Carerra S.
To clarify, I got the wobble out after I adjusted the front ones. The steering wheel wobble was literally like do not go over 60 mph or something might fly off wobble. After adjusting the fronts it was just a really bad vibration at anything over 55 mph, felt like a couple of wheels out of balance, that vibration that surges and is in the seat more than the wheel, although the wheel was still shaking a little.
It's not the FLATNESS of the mating surfaces (they are perfectly flat), it's the fact the play/slop in the spacers up and down on the axis, causing a slight up and down or out of round on the wheel as it's running. Wobble may have been the wrong term in relation to the wheels...the steering wheel was definitely wobbling in my hands on the first run.
It's not the FLATNESS of the mating surfaces (they are perfectly flat), it's the fact the play/slop in the spacers up and down on the axis, causing a slight up and down or out of round on the wheel as it's running. Wobble may have been the wrong term in relation to the wheels...the steering wheel was definitely wobbling in my hands on the first run.
Spending money (That could have been invested) on parts you dont need (You are not racing it) to impress people you don't know (Granny in the car next to you can care less about your wheels)
And don't try to compare a factory installed item to your after market installation of parts. (Even if they are EOM) Would you like to compare a factory turboed car to an aftermarket car? Which one has fewer problems. (Don't lie now, be honest)
And while we are at it, let's ask all the racing teams how many of them keep the spacers. (None in case you are wondering.) They use wheels that fit
But if is what you want on your car. . . knock yourself out kid
And thanks for quoting me in bold , it makes me feel a little more important
And don't try to compare a factory installed item to your after market installation of parts. (Even if they are EOM) Would you like to compare a factory turboed car to an aftermarket car? Which one has fewer problems. (Don't lie now, be honest)
And while we are at it, let's ask all the racing teams how many of them keep the spacers. (None in case you are wondering.) They use wheels that fit
But if is what you want on your car. . . knock yourself out kid
And thanks for quoting me in bold , it makes me feel a little more important

And to the OP
Try this - Remove the wheel spacers, is the wobble still there?
If so, check the cheap stuff first, like getting your tires balanced, or an alignment.
That not working? Pack some bearings and get new tie rods.
Still wobbling, I am out of ideas.
But if the wobble is cured, then . . . . .
Put the spacers back on. (With extended lug bolts to accommodate the spacers) Is the wobble still there?
If so I have a very simple solution - Get rid of the spacers
And for anyone who wants the right fitment, but those wheels you want are in the wrong offset, have them re-barreled. You can get any offset you want without spacers
Not to get into semantics, but......
The wheels are not wobbling. They are orbiting slightly off the center of the hub as they are not spinning on the centerline of the hub. This orbiting of the wheel and tire acts as a huge imbalance at the hub. This imbalance is causing the steering wheel to wobble as is if you had added a huge eccentric weight to the wheels.
If you don't get the wheel and tire assembly to spin precisely about the hub centerline (hub centric), you will always have some degree of steering wheel wobble unless you can counteract the orbiting by adding wheel weights to bring the wheel and tire assembly into balance about the hub. This wheel balancing would have to occur with the wheels mounted on the car. If and when you removed the wheel and remounted it, you'd have repeat the balancing procedure.
The wheels are not wobbling. They are orbiting slightly off the center of the hub as they are not spinning on the centerline of the hub. This orbiting of the wheel and tire acts as a huge imbalance at the hub. This imbalance is causing the steering wheel to wobble as is if you had added a huge eccentric weight to the wheels.
If you don't get the wheel and tire assembly to spin precisely about the hub centerline (hub centric), you will always have some degree of steering wheel wobble unless you can counteract the orbiting by adding wheel weights to bring the wheel and tire assembly into balance about the hub. This wheel balancing would have to occur with the wheels mounted on the car. If and when you removed the wheel and remounted it, you'd have repeat the balancing procedure.
My 2007 C4S w/ 19" Carrera Sport rims came from the factory with spacers on the rear...so Porsche must not think it is a problem.
The spacers bolt to the hub with the Porsche bolts and then the wheel to the spacer w/ lug nuts (vs. bolts - spacers have studs). No wobble. No problem putting wheel on.
Unfortunately my winter rims didn't fit with the spacers and looked really stupid sitting that far inboard. The bolts holding the Porsche spacer to the hub interfered with the aftermarket rim I'm using for the winter setup. The backside of the Porsche rim was clearly designed to for the heads of the bolts holding the spacers on to have clearance but not the aftermarket winter rim.
Tire Rack sent me a set of HRE spacers and LONGER wheel bolts that hold the spacer and rim to the hub. These are a bit trickier to get lined up but I did NOT have any drive-ability problems. Everything nice and smooth.
In summary - try the Porsche or HRE spacers and I wouldn't worry about the notion that spacers are bad. Judging by the fact Porsche built my car with spacers and designed the rims to accommodate spacers it must not be a concern.
Good luck. Let us know what works.
The spacers bolt to the hub with the Porsche bolts and then the wheel to the spacer w/ lug nuts (vs. bolts - spacers have studs). No wobble. No problem putting wheel on.
Unfortunately my winter rims didn't fit with the spacers and looked really stupid sitting that far inboard. The bolts holding the Porsche spacer to the hub interfered with the aftermarket rim I'm using for the winter setup. The backside of the Porsche rim was clearly designed to for the heads of the bolts holding the spacers on to have clearance but not the aftermarket winter rim.
Tire Rack sent me a set of HRE spacers and LONGER wheel bolts that hold the spacer and rim to the hub. These are a bit trickier to get lined up but I did NOT have any drive-ability problems. Everything nice and smooth.
In summary - try the Porsche or HRE spacers and I wouldn't worry about the notion that spacers are bad. Judging by the fact Porsche built my car with spacers and designed the rims to accommodate spacers it must not be a concern.
Good luck. Let us know what works.
Now, tell me I am ignorant again
As someone on here once said 'who whizzed in your Wheaties?'
And for anyone who wants the right fitment, but those wheels you want are in the wrong offset, have them re-barreled. You can get any offset you want without spacers.

Almost missed this one:
Would you like to compare a factory turboed car to an aftermarket car?
Last edited by Alan C.; Oct 23, 2013 at 03:25 PM.
Wow, you really missed the point, didn't you.
You read only what you want and skip the rest.
Anyway.
There are 3 companies within an hour of me who all re-barrel wheels. 1 piece forged, 3 piece, yep they can do them all.
So once again I ask;
Why would you put a cheap band-aid Ricer fix on an expensive car?
It is weird, I have owned tons of cars, been a member of dozens of forums. It is scary that a good majority of people who own more expensive cars seem to know less about cars than anyone else.
Hey alan, how long have you owned your car?
You read only what you want and skip the rest.
Anyway.
There are 3 companies within an hour of me who all re-barrel wheels. 1 piece forged, 3 piece, yep they can do them all.
So once again I ask;
Why would you put a cheap band-aid Ricer fix on an expensive car?
It is weird, I have owned tons of cars, been a member of dozens of forums. It is scary that a good majority of people who own more expensive cars seem to know less about cars than anyone else.
Hey alan, how long have you owned your car?
Because custom wheels can get so expensive, even Porsche uses spacers sometimes.
Racers often use spacers, too; wider stance adds stability, and spacers lets you make small adjustments to wheel placement to prevent rubbing of larger wheel/tire combos. Would suck to get a custom wheel made at enormous cost, and then realize you had it manufactured 5mm off, wouldn't it?
Racers often use spacers, too; wider stance adds stability, and spacers lets you make small adjustments to wheel placement to prevent rubbing of larger wheel/tire combos. Would suck to get a custom wheel made at enormous cost, and then realize you had it manufactured 5mm off, wouldn't it?




