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Old 10-23-2013, 04:40 PM
  #46  
myw
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Originally Posted by rglbegl
You read only what you want and skip the rest.

Why would you put a cheap band-aid Ricer fix on an expensive car?
you need to re-read your own posts.

porsche offers spacers, these are not band aid ricer fixes if done correctly; these CAN be correctly and safely used on our cars; factory oem approved.

for normal driving at legal speeds, if used correctly will have absolutely no effect on performance.

your attitude is rubbing people the wrong way bigtime, the OP merely (and respectfully) was asking for some help; while your immediate posts come in talking down at him (and to others) for none other reason then the fact that he was just asking for help re his spacers.

it wasnt until others told you to take it easy until you stopped $h!tting on the poor guy and finally helped with some (condescending) troubleshooting.

Last edited by myw; 10-23-2013 at 04:57 PM.
Old 10-23-2013, 04:54 PM
  #47  
myw
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+1

if anything try the oem porsche 6mm ones for the front, give a test drive and ensure no wobbles then find a good set of more aggressive aftermarket spacers for the rears. for the more aggressive rear, i believe you will need hub centric spacers with extended studs.

Originally Posted by TJ Elliott
I would investigate further. I've run both 7 mm and 15 mm RSS spacers for a few years and have never experienced a wobble due to the spacers. Wobble due to a weight falling off but never due to spacers. Make sure the hub face and rim is clean and free from any contamination.

Hope you find the issue.
Old 10-23-2013, 05:01 PM
  #48  
rglbegl
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Originally Posted by sjfehr
. . . . . Would suck to get a custom wheel made at enormous cost, and then realize you had it manufactured 5mm off, wouldn't it?
This is why you measure twice, and cut once.
(And my first response was a real answer to his problem. Ditch the spacers = problem solved)


I am sorry if I have hurt some feelings. Telling people they are not as smart or as good a driver as a Honda driving ricer must have hit a little too close to home for some folks. And for that, I am truly sorry.
Old 10-23-2013, 05:38 PM
  #49  
Alan C.
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A little clarification. Of the 3 companies near you that re-barrel how do they go about testing any wheel I would send them for a modification? The company that designed and built the wheel did their homework. I've attached a photo of the new ForgeLine RA1s I installed last Friday and I somehow just can't see how they would cut out the center section and make a viable product. Maybe you can elaborate from your experience?

Last edited by Alan C.; 09-22-2015 at 10:36 PM.
Old 10-23-2013, 05:48 PM
  #50  
rglbegl
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You are assuming you must cut the center face to re-barrel.
If you want more info, find someone who does it. Re-barrel and single lug conversions seem to be hot these days. (Imagine going single lug on Any wheel you want, cool, eh?)

Again I ask;
How long have you owned your current car?
Old 10-23-2013, 06:00 PM
  #51  
Alan C.
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I've thought of other ways of changing the offset on a wheel like this but it ends in welds.

I've had the GTS almost 2 years which is approaching a record.
Old 10-23-2013, 06:03 PM
  #52  
myw
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Your car is incredible!

Originally Posted by Alan C.
A little clarification. Of the 3 companies near you that re-barrel how do they go about testing any wheel I would send them for a modification? The company that designed and built the wheel did their homework. I've attached a photo of the new ForgeLine RA1s I installed last Friday and I somehow just can't see how they would cut out the center section and make a viable product. Maybe you can elaborate from your experience?
Old 10-23-2013, 06:08 PM
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wheeler
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Originally Posted by Alan C.
A little clarification. Of the 3 companies near you that re-barrel how do they go about testing any wheel I would send them for a modification? The company that designed and built the wheel did their homework. I've attached a photo of the new ForgeLine RA1s I installed last Friday and I somehow just can't see how they would cut out the center section and make a viable product. Maybe you can elaborate from your experience?
Wheels and car look fantastic! The wheels would look great on Meteor Gray as well! :-) Just sayin. Are they much lighter than stock?
Old 10-23-2013, 06:20 PM
  #54  
myw
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im going to assume yes or very comparable in weight as they should be forged.

with that said i have seen some single piece cast wheels that are extremely light as well.

Originally Posted by wheeler
Wheels and car look fantastic! The wheels would look great on Meteor Gray as well! :-) Just sayin. Are they much lighter than stock?
Old 10-23-2013, 06:29 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by 07C4S
My 2007 C4S w/ 19" Carrera Sport rims came from the factory with spacers on the rear...so Porsche must not think it is a problem.

The spacers bolt to the hub with the Porsche bolts and then the wheel to the spacer w/ lug nuts (vs. bolts - spacers have studs). No wobble. No problem putting wheel on.

Unfortunately my winter rims didn't fit with the spacers and looked really stupid sitting that far inboard. The bolts holding the Porsche spacer to the hub interfered with the aftermarket rim I'm using for the winter setup. The backside of the Porsche rim was clearly designed to for the heads of the bolts holding the spacers on to have clearance but not the aftermarket winter rim.

Tire Rack sent me a set of HRE spacers and LONGER wheel bolts that hold the spacer and rim to the hub. These are a bit trickier to get lined up but I did NOT have any drive-ability problems. Everything nice and smooth.

In summary - try the Porsche or HRE spacers and I wouldn't worry about the notion that spacers are bad. Judging by the fact Porsche built my car with spacers and designed the rims to accommodate spacers it must not be a concern.

Good luck. Let us know what works.

I though all spacers were like that, you first put the spacer on the hub using flush allen bolts and then use your original bolts to attach the wheel onto the spacers.

My 993 had spacers like that, I would not put spacers that are lose with longer bolts, I could see where wobble would come into play this way, bad torquing of lugs.

And I agree that spacers are for looks only, but it does look good!
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:47 PM
  #56  
Alan C.
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I can't remember what Dave told me on weights. They should be right in there with the factory wheels which are forged. However, the fronts are 9" and the rears are 12" which means they do have some extra material in the width.

I agree they would look great on a meteor gray car. I'm sure Dave would be happy to build a set for you. The color is called 'midnight silver'. As I understand it a near chrome looking base coat is applied first followed with a smoke tint clear coat.
Old 10-23-2013, 06:56 PM
  #57  
myw
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stop giving me ideas

any closeup photos?

Originally Posted by Alan C.
I can't remember what Dave told me on weights. They should be right in there with the factory wheels which are forged. However, the fronts are 9" and the rears are 12" which means they do have some extra material in the width.

I agree they would look great on a meteor gray car. I'm sure Dave would be happy to build a set for you. The color is called 'midnight silver'. As I understand it a near chrome looking base coat is applied first followed with a smoke tint clear coat.
Old 10-23-2013, 07:38 PM
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A better picture, wheel almost sticking out!!
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:50 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Alan C.
A little clarification. . . . . . .
I thought I recognized your car. You were taking pics of it last Friday at about 4 or so. Right there off of Kettering and Hoyle, right?
Old 10-23-2013, 07:58 PM
  #60  
Alan C.
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That would be me. I was at ForgeLine.


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