Brake job
09-26-2013, 02:47 PM
#16
Race Director
Porsche doesn't manufacture brake components, they buy them from places like Sebro and Zimmerman. If you prefer, Pelican (maybe ECS too) will sell you the OEM parts as well for a lot less than a Porsche dealer.
I've always gone with well known aftermarket brands in the past.
I've always gone with well known aftermarket brands in the past.
09-26-2013, 02:51 PM
#17
Race Director
09-26-2013, 03:21 PM
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
Actually I just got a flush done by the dealer ($200). Didn't sound too expensive. It had been over 2 years since the brakes were flushed. I passed on the "injectorsService" which I know is a ripoff.
09-26-2013, 03:26 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
My Indy charges $100.00 for the brake flush, to include the fluid.
09-26-2013, 03:34 PM
#20
Race Director
09-26-2013, 04:00 PM
#21
Instructor
Join Date: Oct 2009
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The tech won't have to bleed the brake system after the brake service as long as he doesn't disconnect any of the lines or gets air into the system some other way which is pretty difficult to do.
09-26-2013, 04:32 PM
#22
I just had a conversation yesterday with my Indy shop in Atlanta. He would charge $800 per axle for a complete brake job, labor, pads and rotors. When I questioned him about the need for new rotors when replacing the pads he said that he has seen people replace their pads without replacing their rotors as well, and that leads to warped rotors and more cost in the short run. BTW I have a 2009 C2S and was having a mod done to the car, it is not in need of brakes just yet.
09-26-2013, 05:19 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
I just took my car to the dealer for a minor service (50K miles). I told them to check the brakes because I know the pads will need to be replaced soon. They have about 25K miles on them.
According to the dealer I need front and rear pads and rotors. I have a few questions:
1. Is it normal to change all 4? Is it normal to change pads and rotors? I believe the rotors also have about 25K miles on them.
2. How much should this cost? Getting quoted $2,300
3. Does anyone know an indy shop in South Florida they would recommend? I understand that a 911 brake job is not very complicated and I would like to start a relationship with a good indy shop anyways. Price is not the only consideration.
Thanks for any feedback
According to the dealer I need front and rear pads and rotors. I have a few questions:
1. Is it normal to change all 4? Is it normal to change pads and rotors? I believe the rotors also have about 25K miles on them.
2. How much should this cost? Getting quoted $2,300
3. Does anyone know an indy shop in South Florida they would recommend? I understand that a 911 brake job is not very complicated and I would like to start a relationship with a good indy shop anyways. Price is not the only consideration.
Thanks for any feedback
Well it depends on your model. The s cost more.
The front rotors are like $400 and rears are like $350
Pads are $200 and $150.
Bolts, fluids , etc prob $100
Of course sensor are more if they need replacing but you can reuse them.
And youll need a flush.
So parts total is prob $1200 So your dealer is charging you $1100 labor for a 3hr job?
Frankly i would buy the parts from suncoast and take it to a indy porsche shop.
I good mechanic could do it in 2 hrs.
Lastly you dont have to get oem rotors. There are some nice aftermkts.
The front rotors are like $400 and rears are like $350
Pads are $200 and $150.
Bolts, fluids , etc prob $100
Of course sensor are more if they need replacing but you can reuse them.
And youll need a flush.
So parts total is prob $1200 So your dealer is charging you $1100 labor for a 3hr job?
Frankly i would buy the parts from suncoast and take it to a indy porsche shop.
I good mechanic could do it in 2 hrs.
Lastly you dont have to get oem rotors. There are some nice aftermkts.
As for replacing rotors, if you are not doing DE's or Time Trials, then check for cracking between drill holes or groving of the surface. Otherwise at your mileage, this seems unnecessary. I'd ask the service tech to show you the bad areas on the rotors before springing for new ones.
As for bleeding the brakes after new pads, I also do it. In your case, if your pads are worn down to the point of either triggering the sensors or almost triggering them, them when the brake pistons are retracted so the new thicker pads can be installed, there may be a need to remove some brake fluid from the reservoir. Maybe I'm not careful enough but I always end up with a few air pockets in the brake line. I do a quick bleed at all four corners. It is a bleed to establish pedal firmness not to replace fluid, although sometimes they do coincide due to track usage.
09-26-2013, 05:26 PM
#24
I would want to see the pad thickness and rotor thickness measurements before deciding that I have to replace immediately. When it is really close to the limit .. Then buy the Sebro/textar parts from ecs/ pelican etc. and find any local German car shop that should be able to do for $100 per axle or less. Brake job on these cars is totally standard and no special tools.
I took the pads and rotors off my 996 and they were stamped with textar and brembo part numbers. No need to pay the Porsche mark up or help the dealer make his boat payments ... Unless money is no issue ...
I took the pads and rotors off my 996 and they were stamped with textar and brembo part numbers. No need to pay the Porsche mark up or help the dealer make his boat payments ... Unless money is no issue ...
09-26-2013, 05:55 PM
#25
Drifting
I also ask to see all the old parts. It just makes me feel better when I hand over the funds.
Sometimes it's, "OH SHIP" "I really needed those new stopping widget". Glad I did them.
Check out my water pump blades. Where the hell are the rest of the fins !
Sometimes it's, "OH SHIP" "I really needed those new stopping widget". Glad I did them.
Check out my water pump blades. Where the hell are the rest of the fins !
Last edited by BIG smoke; 11-13-2013 at 10:41 AM.
09-26-2013, 09:53 PM
#26
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks again for all the great advice. Itching to do this myself but without a lift or a floor jack seems like it is over my head. I did manage to do my last oil change myself.
Saw an Indy today recommended by a rennlist member (Robocop305). He told me I do not need new rotors and, in fact, I still have some time to go before I need pads. He said to call when the sensor goes off. Turns out dealer was just trying to upsell.
Indy priced four corner pad/rotor change at $1,300 with Sebro rotors and Texar pads. He also told me he would have charged $100 for the flush. Next time it will be the Indy doing the work.
Gotta say, I have to think highly of a mechanic who tells me my car doesn't need work. Plus he is a Porsche trained and used to be a tech at the dealer where I get my car serviced now. Had about 6 p-cars in his garage when I stopped by!
Saw an Indy today recommended by a rennlist member (Robocop305). He told me I do not need new rotors and, in fact, I still have some time to go before I need pads. He said to call when the sensor goes off. Turns out dealer was just trying to upsell.
Indy priced four corner pad/rotor change at $1,300 with Sebro rotors and Texar pads. He also told me he would have charged $100 for the flush. Next time it will be the Indy doing the work.
Gotta say, I have to think highly of a mechanic who tells me my car doesn't need work. Plus he is a Porsche trained and used to be a tech at the dealer where I get my car serviced now. Had about 6 p-cars in his garage when I stopped by!
09-26-2013, 10:06 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Thanks again for all the great advice. Itching to do this myself but without a lift or a floor jack seems like it is over my head. I did manage to do my last oil change myself. Saw an Indy today recommended by a rennlist member (Robocop305). He told me I do not need new rotors and, in fact, I still have some time to go before I need pads. He said to call when the sensor goes off. Turns out dealer was just trying to upsell. Indy priced four corner pad/rotor change at $1,300 with Sebro rotors and Texar pads. He also told me he would have charged $100 for the flush. Next time it will be the Indy doing the work. Gotta say, I have to think highly of a mechanic who tells me my car doesn't need work. Plus he is a Porsche trained and used to be a tech at the dealer where I get my car serviced now. Had about 6 p-cars in his garage when I stopped by!
09-26-2013, 10:36 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Svoboda Motorsports. William Svoboda is a great and reasonably priced mechanic. He has done some maintenance and the Tubi exhaust installation on my 997.2 C2S. William will tell you exactly what you need and he wont rape you like the dealer!
Ufischer, I'm glad that I was able to help you. I'm swinging by the shop after lunch tomorrow so he can reset my airbag light.
Ufischer, I'm glad that I was able to help you. I'm swinging by the shop after lunch tomorrow so he can reset my airbag light.
09-26-2013, 10:37 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
The shop is located in Medley Florida.
09-26-2013, 11:56 PM
#30
Race Director
As stronbl stated its a good practice to bleed after a brake job. the spreading of the caliper pistons can lead to a small amount of air entering the system. Plus its easy w/ the wheels off.
Its especially important if you track.
Every race shop i know does this.
Its especially important if you track.
Every race shop i know does this.