7500rpm

I've read most articles on jacking up the 996/997 but none ever spoke of using the cross member as a jacking point. I've probably done it 15-20 times already and not seen any issue. Anyone knows if I am asking for trouble? It looks pretty sturdy and secured by 4 large bolts, but its aluminum. I do it because it raises both rear wheels simultaneously and I can put the rear jack stands together.

Spiffyjiff

i use suspension points in order to get 4 jacks under all the body jack points. but if you're just lifting the rear, there's a better spot just aft of the oil pan. i dont have a pic but i'm sure you'll see it when you look. but it's footprint is small so be sure to use a good hockey puck/wood block so that no part of the jack pad touches the pan.

alpine-al

Look at this excellent posting by Edgy01. He's got a few photos of the rear jacking point. Look for the blue bolt & washer.

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-securely.html

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Edgy01

The suspension parts are tough in the rear end. Just don't jack up the engine case--it definitely was not built to be used for supporting the weight of the car.

7500rpm

Thanks for all the replies! I have certainly seen Edgy01's post before asking. (Nice cab, by the way.) I have also read the tech tip in Pelican Parts and at least 2 other posts. None of them placed their jack in the middle of the cross member. I don't have 2 floor jacks like Edgy01, so I simply start by jacking up the middle of the rear cross member. This lifts both rear wheels and I slip in the rear floor stands. I then jack the enforced part shown in Pelicanparts at the front, which lifts both front wheels. This means jacking up twice as opposed to 3-4 times shown in all the other threads. I am just unsure if the cross member is strong enough for the task. I don't understand how some people can use the oil sump as jacking point. Yes, it needs to be tough enough to handle the occasional encounter on the road, but it is also usually the only place the engine oil gets cooling. It can't be too thick.

Edgy01

If you only have one floor jack (like many of us) then I would simply place my front stands after jacking from the rear jack points (with the single floor jack) and then remove the rear floor jack and place it at one of the mentioned suspension points to get the rear up one side at a time to place the rear stands in their receptacles. The time you are jacking against the rear suspension and putting those parts under load is so short that I wouldn't worry about it for a second.

USMC_DS1

What type of project are you planning for? Oil changes don't require jacking up the car. Other projects can be done with ramps. Many of us eventually ended up with jack stands from jackpoint. http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

7500rpm

Thanks Edgy01, but that still means jacking up 4 times. Also, I prefer jacking front or rear ends first as jacking the sides tilt the car much more for similar height gains. Seem safer my way, if I don't break the rear cross member!

USMC_DS1, yes, the jackpots seems a good solution. I do all kind of things under my car but this weekend was futile. I was going to enforce my gearbox mount only to find out Torque Solution's mounts are actually for Tips! Manuals are different and needs to be tackled differently.

USMC_DS1

7500rpm, sounds like you're going to get into numerous DIY projects... I highly recommend the JackPoints stands. Made all my projects that much easier and safer to execute.