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Water pump failure..........how mine got identified

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Old 03-06-2013, 03:28 PM
  #16  
LexVan
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Originally Posted by CORSASCHNELL
Water pump failure at 30K-50K miles is very premature. Not good, this part should last at least 90-100K miles.
Guys like Flat 6 Innov. and L&N Eng. are recommending that they are replaced every 4 years, regardless of mileage. It's a wear item.
Old 03-06-2013, 03:59 PM
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pnwc4s
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Mine failed around 45k miles. Roughly the same story as the first poster -

All the temps and coolant seemed fine in the car, no CEL or anything, but I started hearing a raspy grindy noise from the engine, like a loose piece of metal in a tumbler. Obviously I was terrified that my engine let go, so I had the car towed in to a shop, and they immediately saw it was the water pump.

I was relieved to spend the $1000, just glad it wasn't anything worse!
Old 03-06-2013, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Spokane5150
Well, I posted a question about jackstands and thought this avatar would be funny since the Jackpoints don't go up high enough in my opinion. The girl in the avatar is using Jackpoint stands. LOL
It looks like she's got one of those inflatable jack systems built in!
Old 03-06-2013, 04:21 PM
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cvtbenhogan
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Originally Posted by CORSASCHNELL
Water pump failure at 30K-50K miles is very premature. Not good, this part should last at least 90-100K miles.
You would think so.

I've got only 23K on the clock (bought a garage queen) but I'm thinking of changing it for peace of mind. A $275 DIY expense, which a S belt could be done as well. My car is 7 years old now. In theory, isn't it mileage that matters most for a water pump? Bearings wearing out. Or does the water get into the seals, meaning time matters?

80K to 100K seems fairly common for most German cars.
Old 03-06-2013, 04:28 PM
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I figure the serpt belt and coolant needs to be changed every 5, 6, or 7 years. Might as well just throw on a new water pump and thermostat, while-you're-in-there. Cheap insurance. How often is the water pump going to let go in the safety and comfort of your garage?
Old 03-06-2013, 06:28 PM
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cvtbenhogan
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Yeah, have to agree. It looks like a cool DIY project as well. Wonder if USMC DS01 might be visiting Chicago this year.

Add this to a brake flush.
Old 03-07-2013, 01:36 AM
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Darn... I was in Chi-Town last year. Austin/DFW to SFO/LAX are my bi-wkly commutes though.
Old 03-07-2013, 09:02 PM
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Just to add to the list of people who did a DIY water pump replacement, I did mine last weekend, based largely on USMCs really nice post. In my case, though, I had to take off some more stuff, like the cats, the exhaust silencers (or whatever those things in the wheel wells are called) and entirely removed the engine mounting bracket. I suspect that's cause I didn't have a nice set of tight space tools like USMC. I was also slowed by all the Torx bolts, having to repeatedly go back to the hardware store to get yet another Torx something-or-another. I've now rectified both of those issues with a Torx set and the Max Axess set of sockets suggested.

In my case, I replaced the water pump, installed lower temp thermostat, new plugs, coils and air filter. Plus about 3.5 gallons of coolant exchanged. Total cost was on the order of about $600 in parts. I spent another $150 or so in tools. Basically a Torx set, a number of wobble extensions to try to get at tight bolts, and an Airlift for the coolant exchange.
Old 03-08-2013, 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Rotmilky
In my case, I replaced the water pump, installed lower temp thermostat, new plugs, coils and air filter. Plus about 3.5 gallons of coolant exchanged. Total cost was on the order of about $600 in parts. I spent another $150 or so in tools. Basically a Torx set, a number of wobble extensions to try to get at tight bolts, and an Airlift for the coolant exchange.
Awesome... you just did $2,000-$2,500+ in p-dealer service. The Max Axess mech tools are my favorite go to set.
Old 03-08-2013, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Rotmilky
Just to add to the list of people who did a DIY water pump replacement, I did mine last weekend, based largely on USMCs really nice post. In my case, though, I had to take off some more stuff, like the cats, the exhaust silencers (or whatever those things in the wheel wells are called) and entirely removed the engine mounting bracket. I suspect that's cause I didn't have a nice set of tight space tools like USMC. I was also slowed by all the Torx bolts, having to repeatedly go back to the hardware store to get yet another Torx something-or-another. I've now rectified both of those issues with a Torx set and the Max Axess set of sockets suggested.

In my case, I replaced the water pump, installed lower temp thermostat, new plugs, coils and air filter. Plus about 3.5 gallons of coolant exchanged. Total cost was on the order of about $600 in parts. I spent another $150 or so in tools. Basically a Torx set, a number of wobble extensions to try to get at tight bolts, and an Airlift for the coolant exchange.
Have good luck with tools and the torx set from Lisle.

BTW. Do you really need a airlift? How to/cost?
Old 03-08-2013, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cvtbenhogan

BTW. Do you really need a airlift? How to/cost?
The cost of the Airlift was about $100 from Amazon. I have shop air, so it wasn't an issue to use it. To use, you stick a rubber plug into the coolant reservoir. This plug attaches to your shop air. You basically blast your shop air at 90 PSI through a venturi vaccuum thingy for about 30 secs and it'll pull a vacuum on your coolant circuit....removing all the air bubbles from the motor, etc. In fact, the vacuum is strong enough to collapse the rubber tubing running to the water pump. Then you disconnect the shop air and connect a tube to your coolant you'd like to add. Open the valve and it sucks the fresh coolant into the cars coolant system. When it stops sucking in coolant, you're full. Even the reservoir was filled in my case.

Did I need the Airlift? Dunno. It made replacing the coolant that I removed during the water pump change very easy. I have read that people just opened the burp valve and kept adding coolant every couple of minutes until the car stopped needing coolant. I thought about it, considered the cost of replacing the engine if I messed up the coolant refill (something like $20K) and decided that $100 wasn't that big of a cost. I'll use the Airlift again in the future any time I need to disconnect the cooling hoses.

Also, the Airlift was half the price of the 4 gallons of Porsche coolant I purchased. I wasn't sure how much I'd need, so I figured 8 gallons, mixed 50-50 should do it. That was almost $200 there. Ouch!
Old 03-08-2013, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Rotmilky
The cost of the Airlift was about $100 from Amazon. I have shop air, so it wasn't an issue to use it. To use, you stick a rubber plug into the coolant reservoir. This plug attaches to your shop air. You basically blast your shop air at 90 PSI through a venturi vaccuum thingy for about 30 secs and it'll pull a vacuum on your coolant circuit....removing all the air bubbles from the motor, etc. In fact, the vacuum is strong enough to collapse the rubber tubing running to the water pump. Then you disconnect the shop air and connect a tube to your coolant you'd like to add. Open the valve and it sucks the fresh coolant into the cars coolant system. When it stops sucking in coolant, you're full. Even the reservoir was filled in my case.

Did I need the Airlift? Dunno. It made replacing the coolant that I removed during the water pump change very easy. I have read that people just opened the burp valve and kept adding coolant every couple of minutes until the car stopped needing coolant. I thought about it, considered the cost of replacing the engine if I messed up the coolant refill (something like $20K) and decided that $100 wasn't that big of a cost. I'll use the Airlift again in the future any time I need to disconnect the cooling hoses.

Also, the Airlift was half the price of the 4 gallons of Porsche coolant I purchased. I wasn't sure how much I'd need, so I figured 8 gallons, mixed 50-50 should do it. That was almost $200 there. Ouch!
+1... Wish I had known about the Airlift tool 25 yrs ago. Besides being a great tool for the p-car... it also came with multiple fittings for other branded vehicles. My boys and I flushed all four of our other vehicles in an afternoon - 4Runner, Tundra, Tacoma, and Lexus GX-470. The tool made it easy.
Old 03-10-2013, 12:03 PM
  #28  
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A quick update on my water pump fix.......................all done at Porsche of Norwell for $1,050. This seems to be on the lower end of pricing for this job. I really like the team at Porsche of Norwell. Very professional, great pricing, and a good team all around.
Interestingly enough, I asked the techs how many water pump failures they see and at what mileage. They said it ranges all over the map, but that they see a strong correlation between lower mileage failures and garage queens. Note to self................drive her often and drive her hard.
Old 03-10-2013, 12:34 PM
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Porsche Norwell is awesome, that is one big thing that I am going to genuinely miss. Aristocrat Motors has big shoes to fill for me.

Like others have noted, the water pump seems to be a standard maintenance item.
Old 03-10-2013, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Marine Blue
Like others have noted, the water pump seems to be a standard maintenance item.
I dealt with a similar issue on my prior M3. From the factory the WP came with polymer impeller blades which was prone to failure after 40-50K miles and/or 5-6 yrs. Many of us switched to an aftermarket WP with metal impellers but then if the bearings failed it could potentially gouge the engine block... so you still need to replace the WP prior to bearing failure. With my p-car I expect to replace the WP every 40K miles and/or 4 yrs... Just my own comfort zone as I'd much rather replace it upfront then be stranded on a remote road or worst yet have any bits of the impeller lodged somewhere within the coolant system and/or engine block itself.


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