KeninBlaine

I had my Damptronics removed a few months ago and had the factory struts put back on. Now that I have had the coilovers serviced by Bilstein, I'm debating about putting them back on the car. I'm even considering installing them myself, but need to know if anyone else here has tried this.
While I'm pretty good mechanically, I'm no longer interesting in really challenging projects. Any experience/input would be appreciated.

Tarek307

i'm about to get a set installed on my car- i hear they are a pain. Why did you send yours back to Bilstein? i bought some used ones, is there anything i need to check for?

Spiffyjiff

i have removed/reinstalled my rear damps before and it wasnt really that difficult, i cant imagine the fronts are any moreso (and i've helped with other cars, incl BMW fronts which werent bad at all). the only downside is it will need an alignment - and making it drivable TO the alignment shop - but that's a given.

like every other DIY, just make sure you have the right tools, space, and helpers if necessary.

Spokane5150

I've done it on an Audi but not on the Porsche yet. You alway run into the stuburn rusty bolt that doesn't want to come out. You know, the nightmare that slows your project down for 2 hours - 2 days waiting for parts. I really enjoy wrenching on cars so I'd do it myself but only you can decide. You'll still need to have it put on a scale to adjust the preload.

KeninBlaine

Thanks for the comments. Since these were removed from my car a few months ago, there should be no stubborn bolts. When they were originally installed a few years ago, I had the alignment adjusted and corner balanced. I don't believe the shop that re-installed my factory struts needed to make any change to the alignment. So it should be pretty close if I re-install the Damptronics. But I would have the alignment checked again just to be safe.
I expect the biggest challenge may be to get the factory struts off, since the springs are much wider. I've been told that getting them out of the car can be awkward due to limited clearance. I also assume I'll need spring compressors. I was hoping that by raising the car and letting each wheel drop and the struts extend fully, it might help
Question: do any other items need to be removed to get them out, such as sway bar, steering linkages, etc?

Tarek307: I don't think my issues was common. Somehow one of my front struts was low on internal grease, so after long freeway drives it would develop a minor rattle internally. The rattle would disappear after the car sat for 20 minutes due to the heated grease cooling down again. Bilstein has changed the grease to a higher temperature grease that maintains higher viscosity at high temps. By replacing and topping up the grease in both front struts, the problem should be solved. If you aren't sure about your used ones, I suggest sending them to Bilstein to have them inspected. They (Bilstein in Poway, Ca) serviced mine for $50 each, and could do a total rebuild (seals etc.) for $150 each, which is what I originally intended. They said mine didn't need to be rebuilt, as they were just low in grease.

PorscheDoc

Pretty easy install. You do need a couple of more involved tools to do it though: tie rod removal tool (NOT A PICKLE FORK). This will not damage the ball joint and tie rod end boots like a pickle fork likely will. t30 torx if you have the bose system. A pry bar and 2nd set of hands if very helpful for removing the front strut. You need to pry down on the control arm slightly, lift the carrier off the balljoint and slide it around so you have room to slide the strut out. Nothing else needs to come off. I do pop the rear sway bar off for the rears, but that is easy, just 4 bolts and the two nuts on the drop links.

gray911

I did this by myself and put up a DIY so I won't forget, and also to share with other 997 owners. Here is a link to the document.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BzY...jNJYWlIV1pGRUk

Alan C.

I've done Damptronis on a 997.2. I did not break the ball joints loose on the fronts. It is possible to force the stut down and out. Cover the top of the strut with two layers of towel to protect your paint should you slip. To get the top nut off you can use a pipe wrench to hold the washer while removing the nut. Remove the two top dog bones in the rear to make it easier to get the rear shocks out. On the 997.2 I needed a thin 17mm to get the drop link off the front. I bought a Harbor Freight 17mm and ground it down until it fit.

Tarek307

I'm about to pay to get this done at a shop gonna cost me over $800 + another couple of hundred for aligment! expensive mod

KeninBlaine

Thanks. Is there a particular brand of tie rod removal tool you recommend?

KeninBlaine

That is a fairly typical cost. Just be careful how much you lower the car. I had mine lowered about 3/4" which gave it a great look without too many problems negotiating driveway transitions (but I did have to be very careful and take most of them at an angle to avoid the front bumper hitting the ground). I also suggest having the car corner balanced in addition to a new alignment. I had my alignment set up a little more aggressively and it totally transformed (improved) the handling.

utkinpol

it is easy to do if you have second guy to help you, if you are alone i would rather get it to mechanic.

cost if a diff factor - corner balance and alignment is $500 for itself, so, total will be probbaly about a grand as it is 2-3 hour job, at $130 per hour rate in a good shop, but shop around, it is an easy job for anybody who knows what to do.

you do need to do good corner balancing and alignment anyway after install, so, mechanic will be needed.

to depress tie rods you need a special tool - ball joint separator. costs $30 or so. i am too lazy to do fronts by myself, rear struts are easier but you need a helper to push strut from under the car while second person is inside.

Tarek307

3/4 inch then might as well buy springs..i'm going a little more than that. probably 2" thats what i had on my 996, i believe it was called GT STANCE..i just had to be very careful on driveways etc..but didn't have any issues

Alan C.

I believe 2" will get into the low rider club. ;-)

PorscheDoc

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...3022bajosepeto

You need something like this. I have a tool from Koch Tools, but I see he doesn't offer it anymore for some reason. Keep your fingers clear when using this, you will put on what seems like a ton of pressure, then all of a sudden it will pop free with a loud BANG. Mostly it is just noise and stuff doesn't go flying or anything, but probably wouldn't want a finger right by the jaws when she pops loose.