spark plug/coil pack replacement cost
08-08-2012, 06:12 PM
#16
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Location: NV
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Make sure they replace all 6 plugs. The #4 plug(rear most passenger side) is the hardest to get to and torque properly. Normally requires removal of the exhaust manifold to get in there with a torque wrench. Typical mech's would rather not remove the exhaust manifold(EM) as it can potentially introduce additional issues like a broken EM bolts if they don't take the time to soak with some type of break free oil. It's a PITA to remove a broken bolt properly. In addition, if the EM is removed they need to replace the EM gasket. If a new EM gasket is not listed on the lists of itemized parts then they likely did not remove the EM and replaced the EM gasket = #4 plug was hand tighten(torque by feel) = bad as the proper torque is require to set the spark plug inset. Now they could have removed the EM and reused the old EM gasket = risk that you'll have exhaust leak = potentially fail emission test down the road. No need to panic of course but just ask lots of questions... never assume that because it's the p-dealer that a mech won't try to cut corners. GL and I agree with others that you should pay the $350 to have them do the plugs as well. I paid $300 in parts alone for new coils and plugs plus 4 hrs of time to do this myself. Well worth having someone else do if they do it properly.
For anyone planning on doing it, suggested helpful tool list In addition to the socketed plug sockets would be
3/8extensions- 1x3inch, 2x6inch, universal joint
1/4 drive - stubby (~3inch) ratchet, universal joint
Oh, I also used some gorilla tape to fix the plug socket on the 3 inch extension to ensure it could be pulled out easily.
Also, if you remove the silencers, remember to replace the plug heat shields BEFORE you replace the silencer, it is MUCH easier.(guess which dumba$$ forgot to do this ........twice
)
08-08-2012, 08:14 PM
#17
Drifting
Usmc, not sure why you would need to remove the exhaust manifold? I changed the plugs on my 08 c2 yesterday and, after doing one plug on the drivers side, realized that it was waaaaay easier to remove the silencers. Very straightforward, 3 bolts on the mount and 2 on the link piece to the cat (AWE cats on my car). Takes about 5 minutes to remove and about 10 to replace. Makes the job a whole lot easier. Hardest bit was getting the coil pack off on the rearmost plug on the passenger side. the issue is the mounting bracket for the silencer obstructs it. A 1/4inch flex joint would have helped. However, with a couple of 3/8extensions and a universal joint I had no problems getting the torque wrench on the plug to tighten. With the silencers removed, not really too bad a job and I would expect a pro doing it regularly to be able to do the whole job in about a couple of hours. On the drivers side the middle plug was the most awkward.
For anyone planning on doing it, suggested helpful tool list In addition to the socketed plug sockets would be
3/8extensions- 1x3inch, 2x6inch, universal joint
1/4 drive - stubby (~3inch) ratchet, universal joint
Oh, I also used some gorilla tape to fix the plug socket on the 3 inch extension to ensure it could be pulled out easily.
Also, if you remove the silencers, remember to replace the plug heat shields BEFORE you replace the silencer, it is MUCH easier.(guess which dumba$$ forgot to do this ........twice)
For anyone planning on doing it, suggested helpful tool list In addition to the socketed plug sockets would be
3/8extensions- 1x3inch, 2x6inch, universal joint
1/4 drive - stubby (~3inch) ratchet, universal joint
Oh, I also used some gorilla tape to fix the plug socket on the 3 inch extension to ensure it could be pulled out easily.
Also, if you remove the silencers, remember to replace the plug heat shields BEFORE you replace the silencer, it is MUCH easier.(guess which dumba$$ forgot to do this ........twice
)
08-09-2012, 02:56 AM
#18
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Scotsskier, good job swapping out the spark plug and looks like you have some insight we could all benefit from... How about a DIY write-up on the forum. For me taking the exhaust manifold off really helped with getting my set of extensions and my 3/8" torque wrench angled in there properly. I had also heard recently from a buddy who was a p-dealer mechanic that he used 1/4" instead to get around the exhaust manifold. You just validated this for me as well. Now if you're telling us that you did this all with 3/8" extensions then more power to you and they've got a seasonal position open for you in Santa's shop come Xmas.
Well I do have small hands....
Yes, happy to do a write up if it would be helpful. All done with 3/8 extensions
