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2006 with 16K miles. No issues. Would you guys change the WP now? When I bought the car (with 14K miles), the ppi showed a speckle of white residue on the water pump (possibly dried up coolant). My indy shop guy said it was ok and not indicative of WP failure. Quoted me $1000 to replace it if I wanted. I trust him because I figured if he really wanted to get the money he would have told me that it really needs to be replaced.
2006 with 16K miles. No issues. Would you guys change the WP now? When I bought the car (with 14K miles), the ppi showed a speckle of white residue on the water pump (possibly dried up coolant). My indy shop guy said it was ok and not indicative of WP failure. Quoted me $1000 to replace it if I wanted. I trust him because I figured if he really wanted to get the money he would have told me that it really needs to be replaced.
We have not seen any reports of WP's failing with only 16K miles yet... time will tell but no reports of when should be an appropriate preventative replacement time frame. 40K-50K miles is the current guidance by Excellence magazine. Perhaps just continue to inspect the WP every 3 months for any signs of deterioration/leaks. For now it may be OK to just do a partial or full coolant flush if you're still running on the original "lifetime" coolant from the factory. A RMS leak would be a potential issue to watch our for with such low miles on an '06 car.
2006 with 16K miles. No issues. Would you guys change the WP now? When I bought the car (with 14K miles), the ppi showed a speckle of white residue on the water pump (possibly dried up coolant). My indy shop guy said it was ok and not indicative of WP failure. Quoted me $1000 to replace it if I wanted. I trust him because I figured if he really wanted to get the money he would have told me that it really needs to be replaced.
I changed the water pump last month on my 2007 with 52,227 miles on the clock. It had no play at all in the bearings, no evidence of leakage, and the plastic impeller was identical to the new pump except being a darker color.
Concerning the sight trace of antifreeze found in your PPI, I have read a Porsche TSB about water pump replacement. According to Porsche, a small amount of dried antifreeze residue does not warrant pump replacement.
I reread the TSB on water pump replacement that pertains to waterpump replacement under warranty. It says that dried traces of coolant do not warrant a water pump replacement under warranty. Porsche will only replace, under warranty, if the traces are moist, and/or visible drops of coolant are present.
The TSB (and all the others for our cars) are available on Renntech.org and can be viewed with a paid membership. Even with a membership one can't print or post links to the tsb's because of their copywrite status.
I reread the TSB on water pump replacement that pertains to waterpump replacement under warranty. It says that dried traces of coolant do not warrant a water pump replacement under warranty. Porsche will only replace, under warranty, if the traces are moist, and/or visible drops of coolant are present.
The TSB (and all the others for our cars) are available on Renntech.org and can be viewed with a paid membership. Even with a membership one can't print or post links to the tsb's because of their copywrite status.
Awesome thanks. That's what my indy guy said. That the dried up stuff was from the car "sitting" a lot and to just keep on an eye on it for wet stuff. Thanks again! Honestly though, I would rather worry about the WP and replace it easily than worry about the RMS.
just had water pump, Tstat/housing & tip trans filter & fluid replaced on wife's 07 987.1 BoxsterS as preventive maint. Read all the excellence mag articles on water pump- no leaks, noises, etc- Car has 56k miles, 50mile
daily driver in traffic- i replaced belt last yr-
water pump looked perfect no chips on impeller- bearing was fine- peace of mind-
hi all, need some help here. has anyone replaced 997.1 water-pump without removing the thermostat hose? I don't have a lift, and a wimp so can not disconnect - the hose out from the thermostat housing at this time. thanks, fats!
2006 with 16K miles. No issues. Would you guys change the WP now? When I bought the car (with 14K miles), the ppi showed a speckle of white residue on the water pump (possibly dried up coolant). My indy shop guy said it was ok and not indicative of WP failure. Quoted me $1000 to replace it if I wanted. I trust him because I figured if he really wanted to get the money he would have told me that it really needs to be replaced.
I just replaced my 2006 WP at 36k miles. No leakage but i had it in to replace the coolant reservoir (which had sprung a leak) and thought that was a good time to do the WP. My indie suggested he was more concerned with the age than the mileage.....
hi all, need some help here. has anyone replaced 997.1 water-pump without removing the thermostat hose? I don't have a lift, and a wimp so can not disconnect - the hose out from the thermostat housing at this time. thanks, fats!
Fat, I just replaced mine saturday and I had to remove the hose and the thermostat also. I removed all the coolant lines to the left of the pump and tied them gently out of the way. Removing the drivers side header will give you enough room to slide the pump out to the left. My header bolts were rusted so I choose not to go that route. The pump can be moved straight down if you turn it clockwise fist and then back. It's kind of like a puzzle to get it out but it will come out. That with the right combination of magical four letter words and it's out. Also the original gasket is part of a larger gasket and will have to be broken off or cut in three places. There are also two long and five shorter bolts , if you look at usmc's pictures you will see two of the pump holes that have sleeves on them . That is where the long bolts go.
Hey Doors, thank you. Meet up with snap-on guy, purchased rad-hose removal tool - amazing! Tool is worth every penny. It was so easy to remove the thermostat hose.
Now iam ready to support engine and Trans to complete we removal. This Junior mechanic wanna be is great therapy. Fats!
Location: The 911 Nation - 2006 4S Manual 108K Miles
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Thank you for posting this DIY, it along with the posted 996 video really helped me out. I took the removal approach specified in the video.
I have 103k on the car and decided to switch out the original water pump while I had the time. There were no sounds or signs of it going. Please find enclosed photos of the original water pump, the bearing felt good. Used a 50/50 mix with the VW/Audi G-12 coolant. Also changed out the T-housing and corresponding gasket.
There were two issues in following the procedure: (1) the lower engine support plate studs came out with the stud-nut and (2) moving the metal coolant line on the left side of the engine to access the upper bolts on the T-housing.
Engine Support Plate Studs: These were noticed to be backing out when attempting to remove the 13mm nut. I did not want to remove the Cat-converters so once the studs were backed out about an inch, I was able to grab the stud with a pair of locking needle-nosed pliers and break the nut free. With one stud, I actually needed to re-cut the threads because I damaged them with the pliers. The stud was re-inserted using a second 13 mm back-up nut.
Metal Coolant Line: Removal of the metal coolant line to access the T-housing is easier than removing the Exhaust Header. After removing the three bolts that hold this line to the engine and disconnecting the coolant hose at the water-pump coolant header, I was able to manipulate the metal line between the exhaust header and T-housing hose attachment, WITH DIFFICULTY. A better approach would have been to also remove the coolant hose at the front of the line (have both ends free) to allow easy manipulation of the line, especially when reinstalling.
Thanks again to the OP and cheers to another 100k on the second WP!
Last edited by niner niner seven; 06-19-2015 at 12:58 PM.
Thank you for posting this DIY, it along with the posted 996 video really helped me out. I took the removal approach specified in the video.
I have 103k on the car and decided to switch out the original water pump while I had the time. There were no sounds or signs of it going. Please find enclosed photos of the original water pump, the bearing felt good. Used a 50/50 mix with the VW/Audi G-12 coolant. Also changed out the T-housing and corresponding gasket.
There were two issues in following the procedure: (1) the lower engine support plate studs came out with the stud-nut and (2) moving the metal coolant line on the left side of the engine to access the upper bolts on the T-housing.
Engine Support Plate Studs: These were noticed to be backing out when attempting to remove the 13mm nut. I did not want to remove the Cat-converters so once the studs were backed out about an inch, I was able to grab the stud with a pair of locking needle-nosed pliers and break the nut free. With one stud, I actually needed to re-cut the threads because I damaged them with the pliers. The stud was re-inserted using a second 13 mm back-up nut.
Metal Coolant Line: Removal of the metal coolant line to access the T-housing is easier than removing the Exhaust Header. After removing the three bolts that hold this line to the engine and disconnecting the coolant hose at the water-pump coolant header, I was able to manipulate the metal line between the exhaust header and T-housing hose attachment, WITH DIFFICULTY. A better approach would have been to also remove the coolant hose at the front of the line (have both ends free) to allow easy manipulation of the line, especially when reinstalling.
Thanks again to the OP and cheers to another 100k on the second WP!
just finishing up on this same set of service items. 06 C4, 103k mi. Ordered all parts from suncoast or sonnen even ecs. Have not hit spark plugs yet but should I think.
05-11-2014, 02:34 AM
