997 Car Ramps Suggestions
#1
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I have a 2006 997 Carrera S. I want to do my own oil changes, thus by using store bought ramps. My biggest concern is the front bottoming out once on the rear ramps.
I'm thinking about buying a set of Rino ramps that have an elavation of 17".
Alegedly they are made for cars with low clearance. Can anyone tell me what my concerns should be, and will the front botton out.
I want to avoid making out of 2x12's if possible.
NK
I'm thinking about buying a set of Rino ramps that have an elavation of 17".
Alegedly they are made for cars with low clearance. Can anyone tell me what my concerns should be, and will the front botton out.
I want to avoid making out of 2x12's if possible.
NK
#3
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Actually the pair I'm looking at is rated for 12lbs. I plan on only raising the rear tires enough to get underneath. I have read this type of post in the past on this forum, but noone ever metioned the front end hitting when backing up on the ramps.
This is my biggest fear! / ???
This is my biggest fear! / ???
#4
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jan 2007
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The rhino ramps work perfectly for the rear of the car. The front doesn't have any clearance issue when backing up the ramp. I've been doing oil changes using these ramps for several years.
#6
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I have always used jack stands for oil changes but recently attempted using my old ramps in my garage. Had my wife guiding me so I wouldn't overshoot. Car bogged down half way up the ramp, applied more power and the ramps shot forward high centering the car. Wife screamed and neighbors came running thinking there was a major trauma. Worse, drivers side was close to the wall. Had to jack up each side,remove ramps, then lower. Particularly difficult with the wall proximity. Luckily, no damage but very scary. Fortunately the ramps were under the side rails of the frame and not the center of the body platform that may have deformed and totaled the car. Summary, do not use the ramps on smoothly finished concrete surfaces or use great care and caution.
#7
Track Day
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Hi nkelley. I would rethink your idea of only using ramps on the rear. You need to keep the car level for proper oil drain. I have 4 raceramps, 4 inches high each. No scraping issues at all of course. However, once I changed my oil the first time using the ramps, and got a good idea of the landscape under the car, my next six changes I have done without raising the car at all! There really is enough space for access and you'll find that an oil change on a 997.1S is very, very easy. Get an 8mm hex socket for the drain plug. Also, many don't realize that the oil filler tube/cap in the engine compartment unsnaps and can then be raised to make filling easier. If the oil was drained when the vehicle was level, and the filter changed, then an "S" takes exactly 9 quarts--just like the manual says (who wouda thunk?). I would stick with the Mobil 0W-40 (as specified) for the variocam. The process is so easy you will never have it done at a shop again and I'm here to tell ya that it really can be done without raising the car at all!!
P.S.: Nine qts of hot 0W-40 gushes out VERY quickly.
P.S.: Nine qts of hot 0W-40 gushes out VERY quickly.
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#9
Drifting
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I have ramps and jackstands but I've been doing oil changes on my 997.1 w/o use of ramps. I back my car to the edge of my garage where it has a 1"+ lip/edge above the driveway. Enough for me to slide under and reach the filter housing n drain plug underneath the car on my back. A 2x6 piece of wood should also work for you if your garage is not elevated slightly above the driveway.
#10
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Thanks to all for the advice. I think I will try w/out the ramps first. This is my first 911. I have had many sports cars, hate to throw 50 bucks away for labor at my local service station, plus there is something to say about doing your own oil change.
By the way I got sucked in to buy the porsche oil filter tool to remove the filter. Another idiot move.
Promise to have a pic up ASAP.
THX
NK
By the way I got sucked in to buy the porsche oil filter tool to remove the filter. Another idiot move.
Promise to have a pic up ASAP.
THX
NK
#13
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15 years or so ago I went to a metal fabrication shop and had ramps custom built. They have a very low/long approach and I can drive the front right up, no scrapes. I had them built when I had my 993 C4S that I had lowered. They cost me about $200, are HEAVY!! (maybe 75 lbs each). I had a hole cut in the front panel of the ramps, used a hammer drill and bored a hole right through my garage slab so I can put 12" spikes through the ramps, into the slab and then the ramps don't move when I drive up onto them. They are about 5.5 feet long, 12" wide, and raise the car about 10". I've used them for everything from the 993 to my 08 X5 4.8. They've been a great investment.
That said, I don't have to use ramps for the 997, just back the car to the edge of the garage stall and let the **** hang out over the very mild decline of my driveway. I lay on the ground and get to all the necessary stuff to do the oil change. Car stays level that way.
That said, I don't have to use ramps for the 997, just back the car to the edge of the garage stall and let the **** hang out over the very mild decline of my driveway. I lay on the ground and get to all the necessary stuff to do the oil change. Car stays level that way.
#14
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Ramps are worthless. If you use ramps, you will leave 1-2 quarts in motor the when you do an oil change.
To change the oil or do anything under the car, you have to get comfortable with a jack and jackstands.
Its not rocket surgery. Theres a jack point in the center of the motor that lets you raise the entire rear of the car. Get the car up and put jackstands under the factory jackpoints. Lower the car and make sure the stands are square on the jackpoints, Now go linebacker on the car. Try as hard as you can to push the car off the jackstands. Push on the rear bumper and push sideways on the rear wheels. If you didn't get the jackstands right, you will instantly know.
Now get under the car, and remove the drain plug and remove the oil filter. Next, take the car off the stands to get the car horisontal to drain the last of the oil, but be careful to to adjust the drain pan as another quart or more of oil is going to drain out of the sump.
While the last of the oil is draning, its time to examine the oil filter, Open up a garbage bag an d get a strong light and a magnet, The oil flows from the outside of the filter to the inside, so most of the junk should be on the outside. Cut the top and bottom of the filter off and spread it out on the garbage bag and examine the filter, inside and out. Tiny pieces of plastic and magnetic metal and non magnetic metals are ok. If you have a filter full of metal, don't start the car again.
Put in a new filter, drain plug and you're done.
If you don't want to go thruough this ritual, you may want to pay someone to change the oil. But ask for the old oil filter so you can inspect it yourself.
To change the oil or do anything under the car, you have to get comfortable with a jack and jackstands.
Its not rocket surgery. Theres a jack point in the center of the motor that lets you raise the entire rear of the car. Get the car up and put jackstands under the factory jackpoints. Lower the car and make sure the stands are square on the jackpoints, Now go linebacker on the car. Try as hard as you can to push the car off the jackstands. Push on the rear bumper and push sideways on the rear wheels. If you didn't get the jackstands right, you will instantly know.
Now get under the car, and remove the drain plug and remove the oil filter. Next, take the car off the stands to get the car horisontal to drain the last of the oil, but be careful to to adjust the drain pan as another quart or more of oil is going to drain out of the sump.
While the last of the oil is draning, its time to examine the oil filter, Open up a garbage bag an d get a strong light and a magnet, The oil flows from the outside of the filter to the inside, so most of the junk should be on the outside. Cut the top and bottom of the filter off and spread it out on the garbage bag and examine the filter, inside and out. Tiny pieces of plastic and magnetic metal and non magnetic metals are ok. If you have a filter full of metal, don't start the car again.
Put in a new filter, drain plug and you're done.
If you don't want to go thruough this ritual, you may want to pay someone to change the oil. But ask for the old oil filter so you can inspect it yourself.