DIY Oil change -- very easy ;-)
09-26-2011, 10:02 AM
#17
Burning Brakes
I did my first oil change the other day. I consolidated the various tips from different posts/forums. Thanks to all those who provided the various tips/info. Here's the procedure I followed in case anyone will find it useful:
1. I changed the oil with a warm engine so that the oil would drain more easily.
2. I didn't unscrew the cap on the filler neck until midway through the draining process so that the oil wouldn't come out too quickly and splatter.
3. Unscrew the drain plug using an 8mm hex bit and let drain into a collecting basin. Next time I'll also place a tarp on the floor to catch any splatter that comes from the collecting basin.
4. While the oil was still dribbling, I loosened the oil filter housing using the special tool Oil Filter Spanner 92040.
5. While waiting for the oil filter element to completely drain, I removed the old O-ring from the oil filter housing. I used a flat head screw driver to get under it and to pry it off. Ensure not to scratch/damage the oil filter housing. The O-ring comes off very easily.
6. I then cleaned the oil filter housing, and placed a new O-ring on the oil filter housing. In the latter regard, I dipped the O-ring in some of the oil that was still inside the housing, distributed it all over the O-ring, and then gently rolled the O-ring over the housing until it rolled into place. Rolling it on evenly ensures that it doesn't get twisted, which would hamper making a good seal.
7. I then removed the old oil filter and cut it open to inspect it for metal fragments. Apparently small pepper sized metal fragments are okay, but cracked pepper sized fragments are a sign of potential problems. Mine looked great, with only a few little metal fragments in the entire filter.
8. Then I replaced the drain plug. I changed from the original to a magnetic one from LN Engineering (via Pelican Parts). It uses a 10mm hex. When putting the new aluminum sealing ring on the drain plug, ensure the smooth side is toward the engine block and the sharp edged side is toward the plug. I turned it counter clockwise until I felt it seat, then turned it clockwise by hand to ensure no cross-threading. Then use a torque wrench to tighten to 37 ftlb torque.
9. Then I inserted a new filter element. Place a little pressure on it and it pops right in place.
10. I prefilled the oil filter housing to somewhere between 1/3 and just under 1/2 full. Then screw it on by hand and finish with a torque wrench tightening to 19 ftlb torque (my 1/4" torque wrench only goes to 200 inlb which is a bit less than 19 ftlb--228inlb, and my 1/2" starts at 20ftlb; so I put it on with the 1/4 at 200 inlb and then checked with the 1/4" at 20 ftlb and got the click right away, so it should be about right).
11. I then began filling oil, having placed some paper towel to catch any drips under the filler neck. I put in the rest of the container that I started for the oil filter housing, as well as 7 more litres (i.e., 8 litres).
12. Check oil level. It gave an overfull indication, which apparently is normal. I started the car and let it run for about 15 seconds (Despite having prefilled the oil filter housing, I did get a low pressure warning that lasted only a second). Then started the check oil procedure again. This time it takes about 30 minutes. It tested one segment short. One segment corresponds to 0.4 litres, so I put in 400ml more, checked again with ignition only, and the oil level was perfect. So, the total oil used was 8.4 litres.
13. Then start the motor again and let run for a few minutes. Check for leaks.
14. Take it for a spin, and check for leaks.
1. I changed the oil with a warm engine so that the oil would drain more easily.
2. I didn't unscrew the cap on the filler neck until midway through the draining process so that the oil wouldn't come out too quickly and splatter.
3. Unscrew the drain plug using an 8mm hex bit and let drain into a collecting basin. Next time I'll also place a tarp on the floor to catch any splatter that comes from the collecting basin.
4. While the oil was still dribbling, I loosened the oil filter housing using the special tool Oil Filter Spanner 92040.
5. While waiting for the oil filter element to completely drain, I removed the old O-ring from the oil filter housing. I used a flat head screw driver to get under it and to pry it off. Ensure not to scratch/damage the oil filter housing. The O-ring comes off very easily.
6. I then cleaned the oil filter housing, and placed a new O-ring on the oil filter housing. In the latter regard, I dipped the O-ring in some of the oil that was still inside the housing, distributed it all over the O-ring, and then gently rolled the O-ring over the housing until it rolled into place. Rolling it on evenly ensures that it doesn't get twisted, which would hamper making a good seal.
7. I then removed the old oil filter and cut it open to inspect it for metal fragments. Apparently small pepper sized metal fragments are okay, but cracked pepper sized fragments are a sign of potential problems. Mine looked great, with only a few little metal fragments in the entire filter.
8. Then I replaced the drain plug. I changed from the original to a magnetic one from LN Engineering (via Pelican Parts). It uses a 10mm hex. When putting the new aluminum sealing ring on the drain plug, ensure the smooth side is toward the engine block and the sharp edged side is toward the plug. I turned it counter clockwise until I felt it seat, then turned it clockwise by hand to ensure no cross-threading. Then use a torque wrench to tighten to 37 ftlb torque.
9. Then I inserted a new filter element. Place a little pressure on it and it pops right in place.
10. I prefilled the oil filter housing to somewhere between 1/3 and just under 1/2 full. Then screw it on by hand and finish with a torque wrench tightening to 19 ftlb torque (my 1/4" torque wrench only goes to 200 inlb which is a bit less than 19 ftlb--228inlb, and my 1/2" starts at 20ftlb; so I put it on with the 1/4 at 200 inlb and then checked with the 1/4" at 20 ftlb and got the click right away, so it should be about right).
11. I then began filling oil, having placed some paper towel to catch any drips under the filler neck. I put in the rest of the container that I started for the oil filter housing, as well as 7 more litres (i.e., 8 litres).
12. Check oil level. It gave an overfull indication, which apparently is normal. I started the car and let it run for about 15 seconds (Despite having prefilled the oil filter housing, I did get a low pressure warning that lasted only a second). Then started the check oil procedure again. This time it takes about 30 minutes. It tested one segment short. One segment corresponds to 0.4 litres, so I put in 400ml more, checked again with ignition only, and the oil level was perfect. So, the total oil used was 8.4 litres.
13. Then start the motor again and let run for a few minutes. Check for leaks.
14. Take it for a spin, and check for leaks.
09-26-2011, 05:39 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
If you like to inspect the oil filter, the original canister makes that very easy. Charles at LN suggests staying OEM until you restrofit his IMS bearing so you can easily inspect the filter every oil change.
09-26-2011, 05:40 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
09-26-2011, 11:00 PM
#26
Burning Brakes
Here are the pics (sorry for the blurry one of the console, but you'll get the idea) that accompany the procedure I used on my 06 C2S. BTW, after I was done (not shown in pic) I took some brake cleaner and cleaned off the bottom of the oil pan.
09-27-2011, 02:01 PM
#27
I found the 997 to be one of the easiest cars ive ever changed oil upon. A lot of german cars have these underbody trays which can be a pain to remove and reinstall under the engine which this car is void of..Also i was able to get by without even jacking or raising the car up which makes it much safer.
