DIY Brake Flush and DE's
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
DIY Brake Flush and DE's
I intend to flush the brakes for a upcoming DE. Will the event inspector accept my good word?
Also are there any ABS issues on the 997 while doing the flush? Any ABS tools needed? tks
Also are there any ABS issues on the 997 while doing the flush? Any ABS tools needed? tks
#2
Race Director
Yes the event inspector will be cool with that.
Any ABS issues...well there could be or maybe not...depends on if you get air into the system when flushing. If you do and bleed the air out and you still have a soft pedal. Go drive the car and brake hard to get the ABS pumps to work...then go back and bleed again. If you are using a Motive bleeder you might need to do the final bleed the old fashing way and get some help from a friend or the wife to pump the pedal while you bleed.
I also recomend Motul RBF660 brake fluid. I am going to use the ProSpeed683 for a few DE's and see how it is. Some of my racers friend love it. I never liked Castrol SRF...to mushy of pedal feel for me.
Any ABS issues...well there could be or maybe not...depends on if you get air into the system when flushing. If you do and bleed the air out and you still have a soft pedal. Go drive the car and brake hard to get the ABS pumps to work...then go back and bleed again. If you are using a Motive bleeder you might need to do the final bleed the old fashing way and get some help from a friend or the wife to pump the pedal while you bleed.
I also recomend Motul RBF660 brake fluid. I am going to use the ProSpeed683 for a few DE's and see how it is. Some of my racers friend love it. I never liked Castrol SRF...to mushy of pedal feel for me.
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
Mdrums, do you use a motive bleeder? I heard good things and air doesnt seem to be a problem and ABS is not an issue.
Also, I use ATE Amber color as I hate the fact that darker colors stain the reservoir. So when I push out the old w/ the new, how can i tell when to stop, assuming the color is the same? Seems like a lot of new fluid will be wasted.
Also, I use ATE Amber color as I hate the fact that darker colors stain the reservoir. So when I push out the old w/ the new, how can i tell when to stop, assuming the color is the same? Seems like a lot of new fluid will be wasted.
#4
Rennlist Member
at least once a year go to a mechanic whi has PIWIS to do complete flush with opening up ABS module and also flushing clutch line. you can possibly do clutch line yourself but it is quite difficult to reach. to flush ABS lines you need PIWIS to open up valves.
what you can do yourself with a bleeder is to bleed each caliper after each other DE event - like 20-40ml from each bleeder valve, about of 200ml total from all 8 (a glass).
what you can do yourself with a bleeder is to bleed each caliper after each other DE event - like 20-40ml from each bleeder valve, about of 200ml total from all 8 (a glass).
#5
Race Director
Mdrums, do you use a motive bleeder? I heard good things and air doesnt seem to be a problem and ABS is not an issue.
Also, I use ATE Amber color as I hate the fact that darker colors stain the reservoir. So when I push out the old w/ the new, how can i tell when to stop, assuming the color is the same? Seems like a lot of new fluid will be wasted.
Also, I use ATE Amber color as I hate the fact that darker colors stain the reservoir. So when I push out the old w/ the new, how can i tell when to stop, assuming the color is the same? Seems like a lot of new fluid will be wasted.
I bleed after 2 de days so I always have fresh fluid in the system...no real need to really ever flush. Motul660 is a darker amber, ProSpeed683 is a light colored amber like the stock fluid.
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
at least once a year go to a mechanic whi has PIWIS to do complete flush with opening up ABS module and also flushing clutch line. you can possibly do clutch line yourself but it is quite difficult to reach. to flush ABS lines you need PIWIS to open up valves.
what you can do yourself with a bleeder is to bleed each caliper after each other DE event - like 20-40ml from each bleeder valve, about of 200ml total from all 8 (a glass).
what you can do yourself with a bleeder is to bleed each caliper after each other DE event - like 20-40ml from each bleeder valve, about of 200ml total from all 8 (a glass).
Im beginning to think the $99 (I supply the fluid) the dealer charges isnt so bad after all.
#7
Rennlist Member
when you`ll get r-comps and will start driving making your rotors go decently hot (you`ll know when) - you will have to bleed as you will feel how pedal firmness changes. in the beginning it does not matter much as you most likely do not heat up brakes too much anyway so one basic flush at dealer will do.
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#10
If $99 includes a full bleed, with cycling the ABS pump to bleed it too, that's a great price.
#11
Drifting
Simply contact your registrar and ask him. Regional club rules differ, as they also also have their own respective inspection forms. Wouldn't it suck to be turned away @ the gate?
#12
Moderator
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Or... You can change to Castrol SRF (or Motul) fluid and not have to bleed the brakes all year long. I learned early on that spending $70 for a quart of SRF was well worth it because I never had to fiddle with fluid again. I typically run 10-12 days a year at quick pace (Instructor) and have yet to have any diminution in braking capacity. I pay either my dealer or Indy in mid March to flush with new SRF and enjoy April to October.