Convertible Top Not in Limit Position
#18
#19
Kayclub,
I'm in a similar situation. I replaced both leaking cylinders and confirmed they operate normally. However, I went to disconnect the pump so I could add more hydraulic fluid, and I failed to reconnected when I attempted to open/close the top. The top closed, but my clamshell is still raised. After realizing my disconnected pump, it was re-connected, but my top will not open. It will not release the latch so remains closed with the clamshell well raised.
Do you know how I can restore operations or do I need to get it dealer calibrated? Youch, that sounds painful. Any advice??
I'm in a similar situation. I replaced both leaking cylinders and confirmed they operate normally. However, I went to disconnect the pump so I could add more hydraulic fluid, and I failed to reconnected when I attempted to open/close the top. The top closed, but my clamshell is still raised. After realizing my disconnected pump, it was re-connected, but my top will not open. It will not release the latch so remains closed with the clamshell well raised.
Do you know how I can restore operations or do I need to get it dealer calibrated? Youch, that sounds painful. Any advice??
#20
Phunboy,
I have an enthusiast version of Durametric which has the calibrate function. I've found out that the convertible top mechanism has a perfect sync and sequence everything must work, once one of them is out of whack then everything freezes up, Durametric will bypass all sequence and force it to open and close.
FYI, I would suggest going all the way to Durametric Pro, my top gives errors when it's closed but none when it's open, I've changed the top latch microswitch and error persists. I had to set the potentiometer with a multimeter which makes it work, but something is still slightly out of sync that's why the error persists I believe. My version of Durametric couldn't read the convertible top ecu and give me the potentiometer values.
I would buy the kit rather than take it in to a dealer, you would spend the $ either way.
I have an enthusiast version of Durametric which has the calibrate function. I've found out that the convertible top mechanism has a perfect sync and sequence everything must work, once one of them is out of whack then everything freezes up, Durametric will bypass all sequence and force it to open and close.
FYI, I would suggest going all the way to Durametric Pro, my top gives errors when it's closed but none when it's open, I've changed the top latch microswitch and error persists. I had to set the potentiometer with a multimeter which makes it work, but something is still slightly out of sync that's why the error persists I believe. My version of Durametric couldn't read the convertible top ecu and give me the potentiometer values.
I would buy the kit rather than take it in to a dealer, you would spend the $ either way.
#22
My top works now, but another potentiometer is still not in sync, but I need either PIWIS or maybe Durametric Pro or any other tester that will display the potentiometer values while I adjust and set them up to the right values.
#23
Kaychub,
You are definitely peaking my interest in picking up a Durametric to do self diagnostic, in lieu of stealership. If it can restore my super-extended clamshell, that would be bonus. What is the repair kit you reference in your posts?
You are definitely peaking my interest in picking up a Durametric to do self diagnostic, in lieu of stealership. If it can restore my super-extended clamshell, that would be bonus. What is the repair kit you reference in your posts?
#24
It's a $30 part that needs a lot of know how to install and get working. I'm sure that's not the problem with yours, except you push on the rear deck and it goes down, if that happens that means the gears have disengaged from the electric motor.
That was the cause of my rear deck woes
#25
Gotcha,
Yep, I have not manually lowered the top and have not forced my clamshell to any extreme pressures with my initial diagnostic. I will steer clear of that. Thanks for the quick response.
Yep, I have not manually lowered the top and have not forced my clamshell to any extreme pressures with my initial diagnostic. I will steer clear of that. Thanks for the quick response.