When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Any high end locksmith can provide the blank and cut it for you - certainly less expensive than the dealer...or you could try to remove blade from old fob and install in new fob but that takes the skill and patience of a watchmaker. Don't know the cost of programming but you need to do this to get ignition to recognize the transponder chip in the new fob.
I'm not sure if blanks are available to locksmiths, but I can say for certain that installing the key into the key head is fairly simple. The head pries in two, the metal key part is held in by a spring-loaded tab. Pull back the tab, change out the key. That's all there is to it. (Programming the head to operate the locks etc is another thing altogether.)
BTW and FYI the dealer changed my gen-1 for a gen-2 because the old one was cracked, and the gen-2 lasted about half a year before the little tab holding the red unlock button in, broke, and the tab popped up. Dealer offered to sell me a new one at retail. To me that was just throwing good money after bad. So I cut a piece of the shank from a stainless-steel scalpel blade and epoxied it in place of the broken tab. Same philosophy of re-engineering to a higher standard as LN's IMS bearing.
I'm not sure if blanks are available to locksmiths, but I can say for certain that installing the key into the key head is fairly simple. The head pries in two, the metal key part is held in by a spring-loaded tab. Pull back the tab, change out the key. That's all there is to it. (Programming the head to operate the locks etc is another thing altogether.)
BTW and FYI the dealer changed my gen-1 for a gen-2 because the old one was cracked, and the gen-2 lasted about half a year before the little tab holding the red unlock button in, broke, and the tab popped up. Dealer offered to sell me a new one at retail. To me that was just throwing good money after bad. So I cut a piece of the shank from a stainless-steel scalpel blade and epoxied it in place of the broken tab. Same philosophy of re-engineering to a higher standard as LN's IMS bearing.
Locksmiths have the blanks - in fact after two bad cuts from Porsche (based on VIN) my dealer finally gave up with PCNA and had the local locksmith (Cothrans) cut a blank using the extra key as a template. Be careful with the spring-loaded tab - very easy for the spring and tab to fly out (from my own experience) and they are difficult to find on the floor.
Stolen from another thread.
I'm trying this tonight.
I had the same issue and also tried every iteration possible to get my keys to re-sync. The manual is not very helpful, but I finally stumbled on this approach, which worked great for me:
Lock the doors from the outside by using the key in the door lock.
Unlock the drivers side door using the key in the door lock.
Within about 10 seconds or so, open the door and insert the key into the ignition. DON'T START THE CAR!!
With the key still in the ignition, push the unlock button on the key.
It worked. All I did was The one step of opening the door and putting the key in the ignition and held the unlock/lock button for 10 seconds and it worked fine.
would you have the OEM P/N? and price? I bought one from Amazon and it was of very poor quality, I tried to just R&R the internals and it will not click together
It worked. All I did was The one step of opening the door and putting the key in the ignition and held the unlock/lock button for 10 seconds and it worked fine.
thanks this worked for me today! When I picked up my new to me 911 w one black and one original grey only the black one worked… not any more two working keys now woohooo
I took my silver and black cracked key that didn’t work and was ugly and swapped out the guts into an eBay key that cost me 40$ for a new piece. Mine is the two button but they sell 3 button as well for cars that had that. Took me 2-4 minutes the blade just pops right in and the parts swap out very easy.
there is basically a little circuit board inside and a rubber cover that just falls out,
then the battery terminals pop out.
then the only hard part was taking out the little rfid pill looks like a little magnet. I had to use needle nose and a little screwdriver to put out the plastic around it as it was kinda glued in.
$20 bucks. Pop your guts into this new plastic housing and you should be good to go. I bought one of these to repair a cracked .2 key, but i would think the .1 internals would fit just fine.
06-06-2011, 06:13 PM
