LlBr

I have a seven page TSB on Porsche recommended oils. Problem is it's from 2006. Anyway, this is an old list but Lubro Moly is not on the list (see below). Maybe go back and tell your local expert to STFU and stop recommending stuff that's not on the list.

I'd just go to your dealer and ask to look at the newest oil TSB. If the oil's not on the list don't use it.

nick49

Generally speaking, thicker heavier oils cause a motor to run hotter. The oil shearing away from itself causes friction and heat, more so in thicker (higher vis #s) oils. Thicker oils move and flow slower with more resistance and do a poorer job of conducting heat away from critical areas. For this reason, heavier oils will make a motor more resistant to rev quickly and effortlessly. Thicker oils were originally made for racing applications years ago, when machined finishes of critical components were much coarser, friction greater and internally generated heat.

Idealy, you want to use the thinnest oil that still delivers enough film strength to offer complete protection to your motor. I have found the major benefit of thick oils to be that of surpressing mechanical motor noises, and little beyond that.

Try what works and makes you happy, owners are harder to please than motors ;-)

LlBr

Sir, with all due respect. Things are complicated, Porsche did the work and knows the engine therefore Porsche's preferences should be obeyed by us amateurs.

There was that "Oil Bible" a few years back. Amazing how many considerations go into oil.

not sure if this is it but it's something:

http://hyperformancecycles.net/oil_bible.pdf

alexb76

Lubro Moly High Tech 5W40 is Porsche A40 approved. Not the 10W60 though.

You actually got it listed, it's the "Liqui Moly", same thing!

LlBr

kosmo

i dont understand and the fascination w/ the "cold" weight and why anyone would use anything other than "0" weight. Every mechanic i know has told me that most of the engine wear occurs at start up. Anyhow, if one is driving under "normal" operating conditions, ie street 100c/212f, 0w-40 is fine. If one is operating above the temp range, then a racing oil is needed. And if one is REALLY hardcore, heat the oil beforehand.

LlBr

That's why the 5w would make more sense than the 0w, right? Assuming you're in not in a cold climate, the thicker oil would provide more cushioning for the large clearances of the cold metal parts during start up. I "learned" Porsche recommends 0w only to meet emission standards not for our engine's longevity. I could have "learned" wrong though.

johnwb

AlexB,
On your question about how much brake fluid you need for a flush.
Two liters. The tech will need a little more than one liter to do the job. You'll have some left over.

alexb76

I am getting three bottles, 1.5 litres. Is that enough? I searched around and most people said 2 bottles was enough.

kosmo

actually not really. both 5w and 0w are still too thick at cold startup , say 75F,
But the 0w will have a lower Centistokes value than the 5w.

cbzzoom

1L is actually enough to fill, it's a question of how much they need to flush out the old stuff. Some people will use 1L of cheaper stuff to flush then 1L of the good stuff to fill, but you have to make sure they are compatible (not all are) so it's safer just to use all the same stuff.

alexb76

Ok, I also have a set of older Motul 5.1 (same stuff but less boiling point), that will use for flushing the old stuff. 1.5 should be fine then.

fatfat

I just change my oil to LM 10W60 only because I have score bore and don't want to repair it for now. 2006 C2 3.6 with 99kilom in Ontario. I was burning about 1 liter per 1000 kilometers of castrol 5W50. It sounds louder when Iam revving because it is quieter at idle.
It idles at 2 1/2 bars now. These are fun cars but what a ****ty crappy design to make mr P extra billions!