Caring for your 911 (Products)
#1
Instructor
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Interested in hearing what 997 owners use to care for their car. Any products you've used or heard about that have had notably good or bad results? Have a particular ritual? Any tips / tricks for various messes?
Typically, a thorough rinse is enough to remove most contaminants, but once a week / every other week I do a wash with some 1Z Pearl soap. Dry by sheeting and evaporation (have soft water). Wheels are cleaned with P21s gel. I use the 1Z Spray Wax for the exterior paint. Interior is 1Z cockpit premium, and leather I typically use Lexol.
I'd love a recommendation for a new leather cleaner or wheel wax (dust buildup is getting to be ridiculous) if anyone has one.
Typically, a thorough rinse is enough to remove most contaminants, but once a week / every other week I do a wash with some 1Z Pearl soap. Dry by sheeting and evaporation (have soft water). Wheels are cleaned with P21s gel. I use the 1Z Spray Wax for the exterior paint. Interior is 1Z cockpit premium, and leather I typically use Lexol.
I'd love a recommendation for a new leather cleaner or wheel wax (dust buildup is getting to be ridiculous) if anyone has one.
#2
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Carcareonline.com has (had?) some really good essays explaining all the ins and outs.
I use Griot's wax (below), I tried most of the other "boutique" waxes. Because it's a liquid carnauba the G stuff goes on and comes off really easily. A few other Griotsgarage.com products like Speed Shine I also use.
ReJex on wheels is supposedly one of the best for keeping brake dust from sticking, or at least makes it really easy to get off. check it out: http://www.corrosionx.com/rejexmain.html
I use Griot's wax (below), I tried most of the other "boutique" waxes. Because it's a liquid carnauba the G stuff goes on and comes off really easily. A few other Griotsgarage.com products like Speed Shine I also use.
ReJex on wheels is supposedly one of the best for keeping brake dust from sticking, or at least makes it really easy to get off. check it out: http://www.corrosionx.com/rejexmain.html
#3
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My C2S is black and I like a uniform, streak-free, deep, wet look (who doesn't? black exposes product weaknesses). Clear bra from the mirrors forward. Full leather+ black interior.
Washing: any quality wash concentrate / blow dry with electric leaf blower / microfiber towel dry
Glass: Invisible Glass / paper towel first / microfiber finish
Wheels: wash water
Tires: wash water scrub / IPA wipe (I don't care for tire dressings and tires don't last long enough to worry about deterioration and cracking)
Polishes & sealant: Menzerna and Black Fire Whenever needed
Wax: Black Fire Wax Once / 1-2 months
Detailer: Meguirar's after every wash
Leather cleaner/conditioner: Meguirar's Once / month
Washing: any quality wash concentrate / blow dry with electric leaf blower / microfiber towel dry
Glass: Invisible Glass / paper towel first / microfiber finish
Wheels: wash water
Tires: wash water scrub / IPA wipe (I don't care for tire dressings and tires don't last long enough to worry about deterioration and cracking)
Polishes & sealant: Menzerna and Black Fire Whenever needed
Wax: Black Fire Wax Once / 1-2 months
Detailer: Meguirar's after every wash
Leather cleaner/conditioner: Meguirar's Once / month
#4
Three Wheelin'
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I always carry a bottle of Mequiar's Quick Detailer (the red bottle cheap one will do), a roll of paper towel (or baby wipes if budget allows), and a few latex gloves (Costco sells them cheap in boxes) in my car.
It works magic to clean 'dirts' like bird-drop, tree-sap, or dead-bug on the paint surface, on the road.
As soon as we found those 'dirts' on the paint surface...
- Wear the latex gloves (always nice to keep our hands clean.)
- Spray them with Quick Detailer.
- Let it soap for a good few seconds.
- Then 'carefully & gently' wipe them off with the paper towel (only use clean surface of paper towel for each wipe, no repeat use on the same piece of paper towel, and keep the paper towel wet with Quick Detailer so no micro scratches on the paint.)
- Repeat above step if necessary.
The key is to use chemical reaction of the Quick Detailer to dissolve the 'dirts', not to use our force of the wiping (that creates micro scratches) to remove them.
I have been doing it for over a decade on all my cars (including black color cars), and it worked great.
With best regards,
It works magic to clean 'dirts' like bird-drop, tree-sap, or dead-bug on the paint surface, on the road.
As soon as we found those 'dirts' on the paint surface...
- Wear the latex gloves (always nice to keep our hands clean.)
- Spray them with Quick Detailer.
- Let it soap for a good few seconds.
- Then 'carefully & gently' wipe them off with the paper towel (only use clean surface of paper towel for each wipe, no repeat use on the same piece of paper towel, and keep the paper towel wet with Quick Detailer so no micro scratches on the paint.)
- Repeat above step if necessary.
The key is to use chemical reaction of the Quick Detailer to dissolve the 'dirts', not to use our force of the wiping (that creates micro scratches) to remove them.
I have been doing it for over a decade on all my cars (including black color cars), and it worked great.
With best regards,
#5
Nordschleife Master
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I always carry a bottle of Mequiar's Quick Detailer (the red bottle cheap one will do), a roll of paper towel (or baby wipes if budget allows), and a few latex gloves (Costco sells them cheap in boxes) in my car.
It works magic to clean 'dirts' like bird-drop, tree-sap, or dead-bug on the paint surface, on the road.
As soon as we found those 'dirts' on the paint surface...
- Wear the latex gloves (always nice to keep our hands clean.)
- Spray them with Quick Detailer.
- Let it soap for a good few seconds.
- Then 'carefully & gently' wipe them off with the paper towel (only use clean surface of paper towel for each wipe, no repeat use on the same piece of paper towel, and keep the paper towel wet with Quick Detailer so no micro scratches on the paint.)
- Repeat above step if necessary.
The key is to use chemical reaction of the Quick Detailer to dissolve the 'dirts', not to use our force of the wiping (that creates micro scratches) to remove them.
I have been doing it for over a decade on all my cars (including black color cars), and it worked great.
With best regards,
It works magic to clean 'dirts' like bird-drop, tree-sap, or dead-bug on the paint surface, on the road.
As soon as we found those 'dirts' on the paint surface...
- Wear the latex gloves (always nice to keep our hands clean.)
- Spray them with Quick Detailer.
- Let it soap for a good few seconds.
- Then 'carefully & gently' wipe them off with the paper towel (only use clean surface of paper towel for each wipe, no repeat use on the same piece of paper towel, and keep the paper towel wet with Quick Detailer so no micro scratches on the paint.)
- Repeat above step if necessary.
The key is to use chemical reaction of the Quick Detailer to dissolve the 'dirts', not to use our force of the wiping (that creates micro scratches) to remove them.
I have been doing it for over a decade on all my cars (including black color cars), and it worked great.
With best regards,
Agree with all of the above except paper towels. That stuff is abrasive. I've yet to find a disposable wipe that is not abrasive.
I like Optimum No Rinse as a wash system. And BTW, the stuff is also great to mix a good (cheap) quick detailer.
#6
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All the Menzerna polishes are great..high quality! Check out Detailersdomain.com, I believe he sells some Swissvax wheel wax..I haven't used it, however I was thinking about ordering some for myself..
Not affilated with detailersdomain.com, that's just where I buy my detailing products..
Not affilated with detailersdomain.com, that's just where I buy my detailing products..
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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Zaino leather treatment. It doesn't create a shine. It soaks right in. It has a UV protectant built in. And best of all, it smells like Porsche leather from the factory so it keeps your interior perpetually smelling like new Porsche leather.
#9
Nordschleife Master
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Zaino does add shine. Sonus does not.
#10
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Washing: quick wash=ONR. Washing normally=many sheepskin mits and Zaino soap.
Polishing finish= Menzerna mostly the Ceramiclear polishes even though Porsche paint is soft as snot!
Protection of finish= Zaino sealants (Z5-Pro and Z2-Pro) or quick wipe on, walk away, Zaino Clear Seal. Maintain with Z6 spray and for added pop, Z8 Grande Finale
Interior Leather Zaino Z-10 and Z-11 (Leather in a bottle) and Sonus Leather treatment.
Interior plastics= 1Z Cockpit Premium, works well on plastic engine areas.
Wheels, P21S to clean, and Zaino Clear Seal
Tires= Zaino Z16 also anything rubber (CV Boots, engine rubber parts)
Glass= Invisible glass if in good shape
Plated metal= Flitz
Carpets= Extraction system with carpet cleaner, followed by Scotchguard
All towels are micro-fiber in different naps, different colors for respective areas and chemicals.
Many natural brushes including many from Sefora and other shops.
Washing mostly use foam gun or foam cannon which coats the car in heavy foam. Light washing with ONR is safe if done right with a grout sponge.
There are many polishes and last step products (wax or sealants) which everyone has a favorite or what looks good to your eye. Wax will give a deep look and some can impart a wet look if used with a glaze. Only problem with waxes are they last not long, can make tree pollen stick like glue when the wax surface is hot and the wax oils start to migrate out. See this more with very high-end waxes.
Sealants have a sterile look to some depending on brand or application, can be very reflective. Done right with the right product, it can be so close to wax, most people cannot tell. Sealants also last longer, easier to maintain and some require little work and some a whole lot of work.
I've done many side-by-side wax tests with moderate priced wax and high-end wax and most cannot tell.
Leather is another area people rush out and grab a bottle of Lexol. DON'T! Use products strickly for automotive leathers. Lexol spun off the tack room products years ago to market it as a automotive product although reformulates, it still not the choice for auto leather. I clean leather with Woolite and distilled water. Works better than most leather cleaners and cheap. Most leather cleaners are nothing more than a soap and coloring.
Polishing equipment. If you're new, use only a random orbital such as a Porter-Cable 7424. Use only foam pads with correct backing plate. Most used are polishing pads and finishing pads. Towels use micro-fiber type.
Polishes: ALWAYS start mild and work up. I've used every type of polish and find that Menzerna works very well for more experienced user. The newer Optimum polishes work well. Zaino came out with two, an AIO type (all in one) and a dual action type as well. Both work well if used correctly.
For most people starting to learn or research it, look at Autopia.org for a start. Some of the debate can be a bit heated as there are some that have a strong feeling on a specific product or line.
Just take your time, always schedule time long enough to accomplish what you want to do. Too many get so far into it, then rush to end it so they can go and drive only putting more harm in the finish or interior.
When in doubt, let the professional detailer do the car. There are many that are exceptional and there are many that are hacks. Look at other owners, ask at PCNA or club events who they trust.
Regards,
Deanski
Polishing finish= Menzerna mostly the Ceramiclear polishes even though Porsche paint is soft as snot!
Protection of finish= Zaino sealants (Z5-Pro and Z2-Pro) or quick wipe on, walk away, Zaino Clear Seal. Maintain with Z6 spray and for added pop, Z8 Grande Finale
Interior Leather Zaino Z-10 and Z-11 (Leather in a bottle) and Sonus Leather treatment.
Interior plastics= 1Z Cockpit Premium, works well on plastic engine areas.
Wheels, P21S to clean, and Zaino Clear Seal
Tires= Zaino Z16 also anything rubber (CV Boots, engine rubber parts)
Glass= Invisible glass if in good shape
Plated metal= Flitz
Carpets= Extraction system with carpet cleaner, followed by Scotchguard
All towels are micro-fiber in different naps, different colors for respective areas and chemicals.
Many natural brushes including many from Sefora and other shops.
Washing mostly use foam gun or foam cannon which coats the car in heavy foam. Light washing with ONR is safe if done right with a grout sponge.
There are many polishes and last step products (wax or sealants) which everyone has a favorite or what looks good to your eye. Wax will give a deep look and some can impart a wet look if used with a glaze. Only problem with waxes are they last not long, can make tree pollen stick like glue when the wax surface is hot and the wax oils start to migrate out. See this more with very high-end waxes.
Sealants have a sterile look to some depending on brand or application, can be very reflective. Done right with the right product, it can be so close to wax, most people cannot tell. Sealants also last longer, easier to maintain and some require little work and some a whole lot of work.
I've done many side-by-side wax tests with moderate priced wax and high-end wax and most cannot tell.
Leather is another area people rush out and grab a bottle of Lexol. DON'T! Use products strickly for automotive leathers. Lexol spun off the tack room products years ago to market it as a automotive product although reformulates, it still not the choice for auto leather. I clean leather with Woolite and distilled water. Works better than most leather cleaners and cheap. Most leather cleaners are nothing more than a soap and coloring.
Polishing equipment. If you're new, use only a random orbital such as a Porter-Cable 7424. Use only foam pads with correct backing plate. Most used are polishing pads and finishing pads. Towels use micro-fiber type.
Polishes: ALWAYS start mild and work up. I've used every type of polish and find that Menzerna works very well for more experienced user. The newer Optimum polishes work well. Zaino came out with two, an AIO type (all in one) and a dual action type as well. Both work well if used correctly.
For most people starting to learn or research it, look at Autopia.org for a start. Some of the debate can be a bit heated as there are some that have a strong feeling on a specific product or line.
Just take your time, always schedule time long enough to accomplish what you want to do. Too many get so far into it, then rush to end it so they can go and drive only putting more harm in the finish or interior.
When in doubt, let the professional detailer do the car. There are many that are exceptional and there are many that are hacks. Look at other owners, ask at PCNA or club events who they trust.
Regards,
Deanski
#11
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I love Klasse AIO and I don't do as much carnuba waxing here because it doesn't last in the heat. Klasse AIO is good stuff.
I, too, use Meguire's Quick Detailer for the little stuff or maybe for touch up after a wash when I don't feel like doing a wax.
Lexol has kept my leather in good shape but I don't care for the scent. I'll try alternative when it runs out.
I, too, use Meguire's Quick Detailer for the little stuff or maybe for touch up after a wash when I don't feel like doing a wax.
Lexol has kept my leather in good shape but I don't care for the scent. I'll try alternative when it runs out.
#14
Burning Brakes
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Does it matter if I only drive a 987S?
Wash the body with sheepskin mitt and wheels are done with various brushes (wheels washed first)
Wheels = Griots wheel spray or Sonax spray
Tires = 1Z Vinyl/Rubber (not greasy and just a nice flat clean look afterwards)
Paint = Polishes are Menzerna using a Porter Cable and Lake Country pads; sealant is Klasse; wax is P21S applied after every couple washes using the PC; Griots Speed Shine for dusting/detailing inbetween
Cab Top = RaggTop cleaner scrubbed with Swisswax brush and protectant applied as directed
Interior = Vinyl/Rubber pieces get Griots Vinyl/Rubber care; the leather pieces get the Porsche leather cleaner/conditioner given to me from the dealer; plastics and general cleaning get 1Z Cockpit spray
Glass = Stoners Invisible
Towels used on the paint are of various types/nap most of which i purchased from Autopia-Car Care.
I will say that Detailer's Domain, Autopia Car Care and AutoGeek have all been superb in providing the products I use.
Does anyone have a spray/remover that will remove the tar/debris that has built up on my rear bumper from my rear wheels kicking up whatever? I've tried 3M Adhesive remover, claybar...no progress with either
Wash the body with sheepskin mitt and wheels are done with various brushes (wheels washed first)
Wheels = Griots wheel spray or Sonax spray
Tires = 1Z Vinyl/Rubber (not greasy and just a nice flat clean look afterwards)
Paint = Polishes are Menzerna using a Porter Cable and Lake Country pads; sealant is Klasse; wax is P21S applied after every couple washes using the PC; Griots Speed Shine for dusting/detailing inbetween
Cab Top = RaggTop cleaner scrubbed with Swisswax brush and protectant applied as directed
Interior = Vinyl/Rubber pieces get Griots Vinyl/Rubber care; the leather pieces get the Porsche leather cleaner/conditioner given to me from the dealer; plastics and general cleaning get 1Z Cockpit spray
Glass = Stoners Invisible
Towels used on the paint are of various types/nap most of which i purchased from Autopia-Car Care.
I will say that Detailer's Domain, Autopia Car Care and AutoGeek have all been superb in providing the products I use.
Does anyone have a spray/remover that will remove the tar/debris that has built up on my rear bumper from my rear wheels kicking up whatever? I've tried 3M Adhesive remover, claybar...no progress with either