CHV

Have experience w/ OEM, Castrol, ATE Blue/Gold, & Motul. I like Motul the best. Use only a brand new bottle, flush the whole thing through & do it before driving schools. No idea if it attracts water at a more rapid rate or not than others. Think the key thing is new bottle, and doing it before going out on track.

If you are just driving on the street, I'd do OEM and flush annually.

Chuck

cbzzoom

Yeah, that's another disadvantage of going to the dealer, they cranked on the housing way too tight

CHV

It's a Rotary. They make a home enthusiast line called Revolution. US made in Indiana I believe.

Chuck

tcouture

Sorry for resuscitating an old thread but this one just seemed very appropriate.

I am about to perform a brake fluid change on my 997.2 to change from OE to Motul fluid. Since is it not advised to have OE and Motul in the system (organic vs synthetic), I was wondering what you did for the ABS system and the clutch...

How did you flush those? Or you just did not worry about it? I guess after a couple of changes, they will have flushed themselves but still.I am just trying to cover all the bases before I take the fluid out so I don't run into _too_much_ trouble...

According to what I have found, the ABS system also needs to be flushed using a test tool (like Durametric or PIWIS) to actuate the ABS system while flushing the fluid. Since the clutch uses the same fluid system, I think it would also be advisable to flush it but, since the 997.2 clutch has a return line connected to the bleeder valve, it looks like I will need a special tool to do the job.

I am just wondering about experiences either way out there - flushing or not flushing, particularly when going from one fluid to another.

Thanks,

T.

sullivas

From my readings and discussions the ABS is normally not actuated every time the system is flushed so you could skip that part. As far as I know (at least on 997.1's) the clutch and brakes share the same fluid, DOT 4 brake fluid. I flush clutch and brakes with ATE Gold DOT 4. It's the same specs as ATE Racing Blue fluid without the dye. IIRC Motul has a higher boiling point hence good for racing. I wasn't aware Motul was synthetic - is this true? If so I'd think it would have a different DOT number.

tcouture

I think that the DOT standards really specify the boiling points:

DOT 3 Dry= 401°F / Wet = 284°F
DOT 4 Dry= 446°F / Wet = 311°F
DOT 5 Dry = 500°F / Wet = 356°F

Most DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids are organic (mineral) glycol ether and borate ester based, but Motul RBF 600 is synthetic (according to their litterature). In theory, they would be somewhat compatible in the same system but is not advisable because their performance will be affected.

AFAIK DOT5 brake fluids are silicon based and are a totally different ballgame. DOT4 and DOT5 cannot be mixed.

T.

alexb76

Don't use DOT 5... not compatible.

ALL other oils you mentioned are DOT4 with different boiling points. Motul being synthetic, not sure about others.

I did a basic brake fluid change to Motul 600, and didn't bother with the rest of the stuff you're trying to do and I've been perfectly fine. I think it does mix *ok* with some leftover oil, but if you're ****, then to be 100% might as well do it.

tcouture

How did you guess?

In my case, P-Car = Therapy.

.

T.

alexb76

LOL... I think ALL of us on 997 forum have the same condition and are in therapy whenever we step into our cars!

Vjgtrybno1

For 997.1, try NOT unscrewing the filler cap when draining the oil to reduce its flow rate.

mjsporsche

Early start to Spring.

Enjoyed the bonding moment.

Wannabeproracer

I use Motul RBF660 in my race car and my daily driver, but both have stainless steel brakelines. higher boiling point, DOT 4 and full synthetic.