Edgy01

The real issue is GETTING TO THEM. A lot has to come off to remove simply the individual coils. There is insufficient clearance to do that with the way brackets and accessories are mounted on the engine, so much disassembly is required.

sharmat

Dropping engine is not required.
Was quoted $260 with service coupon by the dealer. Doesnt seem too bad.

Edgy01

One of our Rennlist brothers did this on his 997Turbo. Better him than me! Certainly worse on a turbo, but still a challenge for the NA cars.

Link: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-turb...-yourself.html

sharmat

Thanks for that link Dan. It's always nice to see how something is done even if I'm not going to do it myself. Yes. Our cars are probably similar in labor intensity to the turbo as location would be about the same. Maybe less accessories/lines would be in the way on the NA cars.

HenryPcar

I did mine last week on a 997.2 with 46K miles on the odometer. After pulling out the old plugs it still looked very good. The electrodes still have its sharp physical contour shape. The plug just have a grayish color deposit and it looks very fresh. I'm sure it is still good for another 30K miles. I replaced the coils as well and the entire job took about 1/2 day.

verboten

The concern with spark plugs is not their condition, but will they unscrew? The heat-cycles and the fact they are made from a different metal from the head (bimetallic corrosion) means that at some point in time they will be half-welded in place and very difficult to remove.

HenryPcar

Unless the plugs were put in by a gorilla mechanic with a monkey wrench, there is no reason the plugs will be frozen on the engine block if they were put on based on the correct torque. In fact, both Borsch and NGK now does not recommend putting anti-seizure paste on the plugs. They are now all plated to prevent corrosion. Mine old plugs that were from the factory came off easily,

HenryPcar

$260 is a deal if they do it right. Might as well have them replace the coils while at it to save headaches down the road. In fact, order the coils yourself and give it to them when they do the plugs. Ask them to keep both the old plugs and coils for you to eyeball it afterwards.

HenryPcar

I didn't have to take the rear bumper off. However, after removing the wheels while the car was on jack-stands, I managed to remove the mufflers on both sides to gain access to the coils/plugs. Yes, it took me 1/2 day to replace both the coils and plugs.

997.2_c2s

Pelican's simplistic work instruction seems to point at just removing a heat shield after removing the wheels on the 997.2 and voila...guessing that is only part of the needful.
But they also show 2 different plugs....which one to choose?
Bosch FGR-5-NQE-04 @ $6.75
Bosch FGR-4-NQE-04 @ $9.25

HenryPcar

I don't know how anyone can change the coil/spark plugs on the 997.2 without removing the mufflers. Perhaps someone here on the forum that managed to do this job without removing the mufflers would explain more in detail than Pelican's.

HenryPcar

Mine 997.2 originally came with FGR5NQE04 and that's what I replaced with.

997.2_c2s

Thanks Henry. Guess I'll sniff out the R/R muffler steps, while getting a quote from the local Hendrick stealership.

docdrs

I can confirm I needed to remove my mufflers to change the spark plugs on my 997.2

HenryPcar

Its easier than you think. The mufflers are fastened by hinged brackets and the trick is to spray enough penetrating lubricants at the hinges as well as the exhaust clamps. Be patient and let the lubricants do its job. Once the fasteners are removed, slide the clamps to detach it from the joint, then the mufflers can be moved as it sways on the hinge. Be careful as you glide the mufflers out of the 1/4 panel. They are quite heavy at about 30 lbs each. The harder part is moving the cover plate to gain access to the coil/plugs. You might have to remove the O2 sensor to get to the cover fasteners.
The task isn't difficult and you get an immense sense of accomplishment afterwards knowing that you did it right.

BTW, you need this elbow ratchet wrench to crack loose the top fastener on the pipe :
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-13mm-...1&blockType=G1