Valentine 1 hard wire 997.2
#1
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Has anyone hard wired a V1 in a 997.2 coupe ?
In past cars (including 996) I have tapped a switched lead in the dome light with no problems. I have been told that the 997.2 uses the MOST bus which makes tapping any wires problematic. Truth or Fiction ?
TIA for your experience on this item.
In past cars (including 996) I have tapped a switched lead in the dome light with no problems. I have been told that the 997.2 uses the MOST bus which makes tapping any wires problematic. Truth or Fiction ?
TIA for your experience on this item.
#2
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The 997.2 in that respect is no different than the 997.1, although I'm no fan on jury-rigging stuff as you describe. I developed my own system which is here: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...tallation.html
It uses fused power and a proper ground, and doesn't interfere with other functions. It may be beyond most owner's needs.
It uses fused power and a proper ground, and doesn't interfere with other functions. It may be beyond most owner's needs.
#3
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I love your setup Dan, but I don't see how tapping a power line in the dome light is any more "jury-rigged" than tapping a power line behind the fuse box. I was really happy with my 4" long power cable tapped from the dome light in my C2S. My GT3 doesn't have the auto-dimmed mirrors and I think that means I'll have to fish my power down to the fuse box this time around.
#4
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Since I was going for the remote display(s) it was better to source the power down below. To get the remote display and remote audio controls down to the shifter area you have to use telephone line which would have to be routed down from the control head anyway. As a result, power sourcing was more reasonable from the fuse box.
#5
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Dan,
Very good install, especially for the full stealth setup.
I am OK with the unit on the windshield by the mirror, and really just want to get the power cord there from a switched source.
Thanks
Very good install, especially for the full stealth setup.
I am OK with the unit on the windshield by the mirror, and really just want to get the power cord there from a switched source.
Thanks
#7
Three Wheelin'
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You can also just use the fuse panel directly - thats what I did. Positions C1 and C5 do not have fuses in them. They can be used as switched power supplies for accessories – C1 for RWD and C5 for AWD.
My install is completely "clean" - could be removed with no trace, no mods to the car and no mods to the detector parts.
Details here - http://www.teamspeed.com/forums/997-...smartcord.html
My install is completely "clean" - could be removed with no trace, no mods to the car and no mods to the detector parts.
Details here - http://www.teamspeed.com/forums/997-...smartcord.html
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#9
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I used this link
http://www.planetporsche.net/reviews...roduct=6&cat=5
as my guide for my Beltronic STi hardwire installation. Before I did anything, I went to Advanced Auto Parts and bought a Add-On Circuit and a pack of fuses ranging from 0.5 mA to 15 mA.
I first removed the fuse cover and panel as seen in the pics, and ran the radar detector cord that came with unit, starting from the visor/mirror, and tucked the wire into the headliner and A-pillar, between the dash and A-pillar, then under the weather stripping, and down to the fuse box using a credit card. Preferably the one you're not using.
The whole process takes 5 min.
Inside the fuse panel is a booklet indicating the different fuses and its slots. I don't remember which one I used, but pick a fuse used for something in your car that would turn on and off with the ignition, like the radio. Ground your wire onto one of the nuts indicated in the picture. If the tip of your grounding wire is round, instead of U-shaped, you can easily push the ground into the thread without having to remove the bolt, which was a pain and something that I wasn't successful in doing.
Connect the Add-On Circuit with the positive end of the radar detector wire, you may have to cut the end off and expose the wire to connect to the Add-on Circuit. Use a crimping tool to connect the exposed wire to the circuit wire (red). Piggyback the fuse that you removed from the slot onto the Add-on circuit and place that fuse into the bottom slot of the circuit and place a 2-5mA fuse into the top slot of the Add-on circuit, then put the circuit back into the slot where you remove the existing fuse.
Connect the radar detector and test your job by powering the car on before you close the fuse panel. Voila!
You may also find this helpful:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2D4Ei...om=PL&index=16
The whole process shouldn't take more than 30 min., and all you need is a credit card, a screwdriver, and a crimping tool.
http://www.planetporsche.net/reviews...roduct=6&cat=5
as my guide for my Beltronic STi hardwire installation. Before I did anything, I went to Advanced Auto Parts and bought a Add-On Circuit and a pack of fuses ranging from 0.5 mA to 15 mA.
I first removed the fuse cover and panel as seen in the pics, and ran the radar detector cord that came with unit, starting from the visor/mirror, and tucked the wire into the headliner and A-pillar, between the dash and A-pillar, then under the weather stripping, and down to the fuse box using a credit card. Preferably the one you're not using.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Inside the fuse panel is a booklet indicating the different fuses and its slots. I don't remember which one I used, but pick a fuse used for something in your car that would turn on and off with the ignition, like the radio. Ground your wire onto one of the nuts indicated in the picture. If the tip of your grounding wire is round, instead of U-shaped, you can easily push the ground into the thread without having to remove the bolt, which was a pain and something that I wasn't successful in doing.
Connect the Add-On Circuit with the positive end of the radar detector wire, you may have to cut the end off and expose the wire to connect to the Add-on Circuit. Use a crimping tool to connect the exposed wire to the circuit wire (red). Piggyback the fuse that you removed from the slot onto the Add-on circuit and place that fuse into the bottom slot of the circuit and place a 2-5mA fuse into the top slot of the Add-on circuit, then put the circuit back into the slot where you remove the existing fuse.
Connect the radar detector and test your job by powering the car on before you close the fuse panel. Voila!
You may also find this helpful:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2D4Ei...om=PL&index=16
The whole process shouldn't take more than 30 min., and all you need is a credit card, a screwdriver, and a crimping tool.
#10
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https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...the-997-a.html
But I used radio Shack wire taps instead of soldering to get the ground and power AND my V1 power cord was Red/positive and Green/negative.
But I used radio Shack wire taps instead of soldering to get the ground and power AND my V1 power cord was Red/positive and Green/negative.
#12
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#13
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https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...the-997-a.html
But I used radio Shack wire taps instead of soldering to get the ground and power AND my V1 power cord was Red/positive and Green/negative.
But I used radio Shack wire taps instead of soldering to get the ground and power AND my V1 power cord was Red/positive and Green/negative.
#14
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I just installed my Passport into my 997.2 a couple of weeks ago. I took my time, followed 1080iAddict's directions carefully and it was a piece of cake. Can't tell you how happy i am with this install.
#15
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Inspired by this thread I wired up my GT3 today for the Valentine One and my Traqmate using the unused c-row fuse socket for switched power (ground to the bolt holding the fuse box in to the chassis). I'd been putting it off for a few weeks. I'm especially jazzed that I've got the Traqmate GPS and power and display cable permanently wired now. I've skipped hooking it up on track days just because it was sort of a pain in the old car having to plug everything in.
Is it just me, or is it sort of crazy that all the power ports in the car are always on? I'd much rather have them switched with the ignition.
Is it just me, or is it sort of crazy that all the power ports in the car are always on? I'd much rather have them switched with the ignition.