997.2 C4S track alignment
#1
Wordsmith
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Thread Starter
997.2 C4S track alignment
I'm curious to know what alignment specs people are using for the 997.2 C4S on the track -- especially in the context of most aggressive settings, ability to lower ride height and running Sport Cups or Hooters on 18's or 19's.
#3
Rennlist Member
I have a C2S with motorsport control arms & shims, Bilstein Damptronics, Tarret rear toe links w/ H&R sways (rear on 2nd from soft). I track roughly 10 times per year and use Toyo R888s with Pagid yellow RS29s. when I do so. After a bunch of fine tuning, here are my specs:
Front Camber: -2.4
Front Toe: .01
Rear Camber: -2.2
Rear Toe: .18
Great turn in and very neutral handling. I can throttle stear but the car does not snap oversteer. Barely any pushing in tight corners. I hope this helps.
Front Camber: -2.4
Front Toe: .01
Rear Camber: -2.2
Rear Toe: .18
Great turn in and very neutral handling. I can throttle stear but the car does not snap oversteer. Barely any pushing in tight corners. I hope this helps.
#4
Wordsmith
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Thread Starter
I have a C2S with motorsport control arms & shims, Bilstein Damptronics, Tarret rear toe links w/ H&R sways (rear on 2nd from soft). I track roughly 10 times per year and use Toyo R888s with Pagid yellow RS29s. when I do so. After a bunch of fine tuning, here are my specs:
Front Camber: -2.4
Front Toe: .01
Rear Camber: -2.2
Rear Toe: .18
Great turn in and very neutral handling. I can throttle stear but the car does not snap oversteer. Barely any pushing in tight corners. I hope this helps.
Front Camber: -2.4
Front Toe: .01
Rear Camber: -2.2
Rear Toe: .18
Great turn in and very neutral handling. I can throttle stear but the car does not snap oversteer. Barely any pushing in tight corners. I hope this helps.
Are the 997.1 and 997.2 brakes the same?
Do the yellows work on the street or are they too noisy or run too cold?
In the C4S, I don't expect to get much throttle "steer" as such, it just goes to neutral in the electronics, so I've been experimenting with PSM off and deeper trailing with lift-off transition to power ... too little and it plows, too much and PSM comes back in and parks the car at the apex.
An interesting thing about PDK is the force of the 2nd-3rd shift (in "Sport Plus") is like a clutch-slip to start a drift. Now that I have the engine past the 2000 mile mark, I'm keen to go play with that too.
The C4S is such a wallowy, flubbery setup, I don't think I can embark upon tightening it up. But it a little toning and tuning will make it a lot more fun (and hopefully the tires will last a little longer.)
#5
Race Director
With stock ride height and control arms the best negitive camber you will get from the front is around -1. With stock parts in my 06, 07 and 09 I ran
-1 camber 06 and 07 Carrera S
-1.4 camber 09 Carrera S with Sport PASM
-2 camber 09 Carrera S with Sport PASM and GT3 Cup lower control arms
.02 toe
REAR
-1.5 camber
-1.8 camber after front lower control arms were installed
.14 toe
-1 camber 06 and 07 Carrera S
-1.4 camber 09 Carrera S with Sport PASM
-2 camber 09 Carrera S with Sport PASM and GT3 Cup lower control arms
.02 toe
REAR
-1.5 camber
-1.8 camber after front lower control arms were installed
.14 toe
#6
Moderator
Rennlist Member
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Read up on the many posts on this subject and you'll get all of the answers in detail. In general, you are going to need to do some suspension modification for any sort of "track" alignment. There's no way to lower the stock car without using aftermarket springs (which I wouldn't use). I also had an unsatisfying experience with Damptronics. So me, I'd stick with control arms, rear toe links, and the stock shocks, springs, and sways.
Tires are up to you and what you like / will tolerate. There's no 18" cup any longer that is sized right, so it's really 18 or 19" Toyo or Hoosiers. Me, I'm not making money racing, so no reason to use Hoosiers. I ran some 19" 245/305 R888 that were great after 4 events of break-in, and am now running 18" RA1s in 245/305 that are fantastic as well (ran them on my 2007 C2S as well).
Tires are up to you and what you like / will tolerate. There's no 18" cup any longer that is sized right, so it's really 18 or 19" Toyo or Hoosiers. Me, I'm not making money racing, so no reason to use Hoosiers. I ran some 19" 245/305 R888 that were great after 4 events of break-in, and am now running 18" RA1s in 245/305 that are fantastic as well (ran them on my 2007 C2S as well).
#7
Rennlist Member
As mdrums said, you really can't get much negative camber upfront without the control arms.
The Pagid Yellow's sound like a freight train stopping on the street......I switch them out for track work. Changing-out brake pads and wheels for all four corners takes less than an hour with a regular floor jack. It really is very easy with the open-back S calipers. The calipers on the 997.2 non-S brakes are of the closed-back design and are smaller then the S.
I hear what you're saying about the four wheel drive system....can't change that. I would start with control arms so you get the camber up front and don't cup your front tires at the track. The other option would be to lower the car wichich will change the suspension geomotry and let you get close to -1.5 degrees of camber upfront. There are many different opinions on springs but I believe a 3/4 inch drop (Techart, Eibach) is just fine. Otherwise, you need to go w/ coilovers.
I know RonCT had a bad experience with Damptronics and I've seen him make negative comments on quite a few threads, however everyone else I know who has them (myself included) like them. I think what he had experienced was either swaybar/droplink issues or a defect in the setup. My 3 track buddies and I that have the Damptronics have never experienced any of the symptoms (bouncy rear, unsettled, etc) he experienced and my laptimes at Sebring, Homestead, PBIR (Moroso) all improved after install. I would not say this if I didn't record lap times to back it up.....we're only talking 1-3 seconds depending on the track but in our world, that's an eternity. Granted, they are not Motons or JRZs......they're a compromise setup but a significant improvement over stock. Bilstein makes the stock setup for PASM Carrera's.......the Dampronic coliovers are engineered by the same company to be an improvement while keeping the PASM feature and adding threaded shock body's for height adjustments. Ron, if you were outdriving the Damptronics (as you mentioned in another thread), going back to the stock suspension will not feel better or yield faster lap times unless something was wrong with your setup. I would chalk it up to an unlucky experience. That said, I'm sure you're a quick driver and it all becomes a moot point for you as the sport suspension on the 997.2's is quite good.
The Pagid Yellow's sound like a freight train stopping on the street......I switch them out for track work. Changing-out brake pads and wheels for all four corners takes less than an hour with a regular floor jack. It really is very easy with the open-back S calipers. The calipers on the 997.2 non-S brakes are of the closed-back design and are smaller then the S.
I hear what you're saying about the four wheel drive system....can't change that. I would start with control arms so you get the camber up front and don't cup your front tires at the track. The other option would be to lower the car wichich will change the suspension geomotry and let you get close to -1.5 degrees of camber upfront. There are many different opinions on springs but I believe a 3/4 inch drop (Techart, Eibach) is just fine. Otherwise, you need to go w/ coilovers.
I know RonCT had a bad experience with Damptronics and I've seen him make negative comments on quite a few threads, however everyone else I know who has them (myself included) like them. I think what he had experienced was either swaybar/droplink issues or a defect in the setup. My 3 track buddies and I that have the Damptronics have never experienced any of the symptoms (bouncy rear, unsettled, etc) he experienced and my laptimes at Sebring, Homestead, PBIR (Moroso) all improved after install. I would not say this if I didn't record lap times to back it up.....we're only talking 1-3 seconds depending on the track but in our world, that's an eternity. Granted, they are not Motons or JRZs......they're a compromise setup but a significant improvement over stock. Bilstein makes the stock setup for PASM Carrera's.......the Dampronic coliovers are engineered by the same company to be an improvement while keeping the PASM feature and adding threaded shock body's for height adjustments. Ron, if you were outdriving the Damptronics (as you mentioned in another thread), going back to the stock suspension will not feel better or yield faster lap times unless something was wrong with your setup. I would chalk it up to an unlucky experience. That said, I'm sure you're a quick driver and it all becomes a moot point for you as the sport suspension on the 997.2's is quite good.
Last edited by adfsouth; 09-17-2009 at 01:53 PM.
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#8
With stock ride height and control arms the best negitive camber you will get from the front is around -1. With stock parts in my 06, 07 and 09 I ran
-1 camber 06 and 07 Carrera S
-1.4 camber 09 Carrera S with Sport PASM
-2 camber 09 Carrera S with Sport PASM and GT3 Cup lower control arms
.02 toe
REAR
-1.5 camber
-1.8 camber after front lower control arms were installed
.14 toe
-1 camber 06 and 07 Carrera S
-1.4 camber 09 Carrera S with Sport PASM
-2 camber 09 Carrera S with Sport PASM and GT3 Cup lower control arms
.02 toe
REAR
-1.5 camber
-1.8 camber after front lower control arms were installed
.14 toe
The square camber approach is recommended, correct?
max in the front which is about 1.4-1.5 and same in the back?
#9
Rennlist Member
#10
Rennlist Member
The max camber that my tech could get in front was about 0.75 deg on my 09 C2S. I was hoping for more based on RL comments but it was not possible. If you can get anywhere near 1.4 on the front, please post. TIA.
#11
#12
No matter what the car needs the camber in the front. I am rolling to much on the tires and because I lower the pressure enough to get grip I kill the outsides very fast. Usually I blister them
#13
Rennlist Member
Ok, so if you're on stock suspension, you cannot go beyond -1, so follow the recommendation... and know that your street tire wear will increase.
#14
I think the DFI cars with sport PASM can go up to 1.4-1.5 degrees. I guess I will find out tomorrow. I am not concerned about tire wear if the tire wears correctly and performs to its max. I have budgeted about a set of tires every year. Thats the cost of having fun!
#15
I'm running a modified 2007 C4S on the track with r-compound tires. I suggest a square set-up as you've mentioned. I'm actually running 0.25 more negative camber in the rear as this is what I required to achieve even tire wear.