Edgy01

I'm starting to order/assemble parts for doing some front brake pads. I don't need them yet (only 37,000 miles) but just assembling the stuff for now.

This is what I'm seeing as minimum parts to do the job:

1 litre of brake fluid (flushing at the same time)

1 set of front pads

2 sets of sensors (they tell me that the originals tend to fry and don't survive the manipulation when taking out the old pads)

12 silensor pads (one needed per cylinder--and I have the PCCBs).

Anything I may be overlooking?

I also ordered a spare engine serpentine belt to keep in the trunk for on the road emergencies, as the loss of one of those promptly shuts you down).

brendo

this might help

I thought you might be interested in reading this web page:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=62162

Edgy01

Many thanks. I burned a copy and will keep it handy as I do the fronts. I will document it herein for others,--and with photos.

mdrums

37,000 miles...geesh....ever threshold brake that thing?

You should get a new clips too. I think you will need more than 1 liter to fully flush the system of the old fluid.

p-cardriver

Just a couple of thoughts on the posted instructions (my brakes are std, not PCCB).

1. I don't put the whole car on jack stands - I do one side at a time. I also only take off one wheel at a time just in case the jack fails (and I do jack from the rear point and put a stand under the front point). I suppose if you're doing a fluid change then it makes sense to have access to all calipers at the same time, however.

2. Wear sensors really aren't needed - I zip tied mine back out of the way - if you regularly inspect your brakes. Tape them off so they don't accidentally touch a ground and turn on the dash brake wear indicator.

3. I drive the pin out using a punch and a small ball-peen hammer. On non-PCCB brakes the pin is held in by a hairpin cotter pin (and its nice to have a few spares which can be had at most hardware stores or for 10x at your dealer). When the pin is about 1/2 way out the punch or a narrow screwdriver can be used to put leverage on the spring, making it easier to get the pin the rest of the way out. Just insert the punch through the hole where the pin seats...

4. At this point I open the fluid reservoir but leave the cap on - I'm just allowing for pressure relief so it will be easier to spread the pads.

5. Spread the pads using a pad spreader if you have it, channel lock pliers otherwise. I've seen some squeeze one pad against the caliper with something protective in between the pliers and the caliper (cardboard usually), but I prefer to put the channel locks between the pads and open the pliers to spread the pads. Once spread they come right out.

6. It is helpful to have laid out the new pads etc before step 5, because you want to move quickly before the caliper pistons start to ease back in. Personally I leave out the vibration dampers and backing and just put the pads in. I don't get any squealing and my mechanic says this is fine, but I can't recommend it since there must be some good reason Porsche puts all that stuff in there.

7. Once you're ready to reassemble the pin, first take some medium sandpaper and get the rust off of the pin. Its amazing how easily it will go back in if you do this simple step - and then keep that sandpaper in your kit - lasts through many brake changes.

8. Put the punch back through the pin-hole to compress the spring as you slide the pin back in. Note the orientation of the hole in the pin for the cotter - its a lot easier to align as you start putting the pin in than it is to twist the pin once in.

9. Inspect your work, then button it all up. Move on to the next wheel.

10. Be sure to close the fluid cap tightly again.

We can do our cars in under an hour start to finish.
Key tools are a ball-peen hammer, narrow and longish punch, pliers to remove the cotter, channel lock pliers or pad spreader in addition to the jack, stand and lug tools.

Don't forget to torque your lugs when finished. Also the peddle will be very soft at first so expect that before you back out of the garage and into something! Pump it up and all will be fine.

Jetpilot

Edge-

changing brakes on a pcar is brainless. It should take no longer than 30 -40min if you have the right tools. Needle nose (to take out the hair pin), a punch (to remove the pin from the spring) and channel locks, or vice grips (to remove the pads)

It is criminal how much people charge to do a brake job on these cars.

p-cardriver

Agree, but a big part of the cost is the pads, backing plates, sensors, and vibration dampers. I found factory pads at a nice discount at jplv.com, and Suncoast also might be ok pricewise, but my local dealers were at full list and didn't even have them in stock (std pads, not pccb).

Holli82

Dan,

I did my pads on all 4 wheels about a month ago. I had 39K on my car (2 DE events). I still had about 40% of pad remaining. Changed them anyway since I had the car up on jack stands. The biggest PITA was getting the damping plates separated from the old pads so they (pads) would come out of the caliper. I'm not sure if PCCB's will have a similar set-up. You'll need to wedge a small screwdriver or spatula between the pad and the damping plate if you do. Everything else is pretty straight forward. 3 out of 4 sensors were cracked or broken during the change so I changed them as well.

I flushed my brake fluid. I bought 2 liters but only need one.

Good luck. Feel free to PM/call if you have any problems/questions.

Edgy01

I've done pads and even drums (rear for the parking brake) on my past 911s over the decades, but haven't dealt with ones with sensors and anti-vibe things before. I have tons of tools so I'm not expecting any issues there, While I don't have a piston retracting tool I have been quite successful in the past with a prying tool and some hardwood. The PCCB pads were VERY reasonable at Sunset,--about $228, vice nearly $400 PCNA retail.

I'm going to add some lesser brake fluid to the reservoir as a preliminary flush fluid and then begin to add the Porsche stuff (1 litre is coming) to finish it off.

I started by doing the brakes on my 914 back in 1974, and discovered that even the shops said how incredibly easy it was, and that you should do it yourself.

ADias

I'm surprised that w/ PCCBs you are contemplating pad changes at 40k miles. I would expect PCCB pads to last much longer - 100k miles?

Edgy01

Actually, not changing them for some time. I'm just doing a fluid flush. I have about 10mm of pad still on the fronts. I'm sitting at about 37,00 miles, and the pads are hardly showing any wear. No 'professional' roadcourse work, track work, and never been over 180 mph,--much.

brendo

edgy - you're, um, thoroughly prepared. you don't really need brakes do you? you're preparing for 73,000 miles from now? you realize that's, like, 3 times around the world, don't you ?

LOL

Edgy01

I just like to be ready!

RonCT

I'm guessing you have at least another 37k miles to go with 10mm remaining on the front pads. Re-use the sensors, they slip right out of the old pad and into the new one. Same with the anti-vibration devices - Once you separate them from the old pad (putty knife), they will bond with the new ones once the pads get hot. Clips / pins, etc. should all be just fine - no need to replace.

So, to me it sounds like in 3 years you'll only need a set of front pads. For now, flush and enjoy

P.S. I didn't check the links, but I do my pads all the time switching from street to track. Jack one side up, take wheel off, remove cotter pin, press clip with 1 hand / thumb, push pin out with small screw driver with other, squeeze pad to caliper w/ channel lock (protected by piece of cardboard), swap pads, re-assemble, put wheel back on, drop car. Total is about 10 minutes per wheel.

Edgy01

Parts came in for doing a complete brake job, when the time comes. It gave me an opportunity to determine what the thickness of the PCCB pads are out of the box. I mic'ed the pads (with their 5mm backing plates) and came up with about 15.85mm. Subtracting the 5mm plates, it gives an actual pad thickness of 10.85mm. When I mic'ed my pads in the car at about 37,000 miles recently I came up with about 10mm remaining. So, after that many miles, I have used up about 8 tenths of a millimeter! I can't get over how little wear there is with these things! (I hope these things don't dry rot on me!)

If you're going to actually KEEP your car for several years, the PCCBs sure keep the brake maintenance costs to a minimum!

I can't understand how a GT2 owner trashed his pads (tracked) in such short order. Even on a track, I can't for the life of me figure out how this can be done.