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997 targa roof issues? (noise)

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Old 07-09-2009, 03:53 PM
  #16  
KeninBlaine
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Originally Posted by Edgy01
Wait 12 months, there will be more squeaks, and it will be a $55K car!
Actually, mine is getting better with age. Fewer squeaks now than a year ago. In fact, I seldom hear any squeaks or rattles anymore.
Old 07-09-2009, 05:33 PM
  #17  
abe
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Originally Posted by keninirvine
Actually, mine is getting better with age. Fewer squeaks now than a year ago. In fact, I seldom hear any squeaks or rattles anymore.
Keep in mind that as you age you loose your hearing. In another 10 years the car will have no rattles nor squeaks at all.
abe
Old 07-09-2009, 05:39 PM
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KeninBlaine
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Originally Posted by abe
Keep in mind that as you age you loose your hearing. In another 10 years the car will have no rattles nor squeaks at all.
abe
Hey, be nice!
Old 07-09-2009, 07:26 PM
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mstams
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Originally Posted by Minok
If you want less squeaks and creeks, get a coupe. Then you only need to worry about internal noise from dashboard/console/speaker squeaks.
That's funny.
Old 01-21-2012, 01:45 PM
  #20  
DoninDen
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Try cleaning your targa tracks with some Q-Tips. First put a sheet over your seats. Get all the gunk out until the Q-Tips start looking clean, then put a drop of McLube One Drop on a clean Q-Tip and and lube the tracks. Repeat. Should take care of the issue! Takes about 20 minutes.

Thanks to a post on sixspeedonline for this info, it worked for me!
Old 01-22-2012, 04:37 PM
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RennlistTomE
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I posted the 'fix' on this forum as well.
Here is the complete version:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ise-fixes.html

Again, this is just routine maintenance IMHO.
Simple.
Old 01-23-2012, 11:28 PM
  #22  
MFank
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I have an '07 targa. No squeaks or rattles at all during the summer. Once the temps dropped into the 40s and lower, I have some rattles above the windshield area. The rattles seem to go away in warmer temps.

I need to try the fix above to see if that helps for cold weather.
Old 01-24-2012, 02:58 PM
  #23  
RennlistTomE
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MFrank - The issue for you is VERY likely the diffuser / seal interface at the front of the opening.
Clean out & lube the track (per the above). In SLC you've likely got a fair amount of dust in there. But pay special attention to the diffuser.
It's pretty easy to get to the part.
Clean it well. Remove any residual soap / cleaner. Use several passes with microfiber and water. Get to the hinges & springs as best you can with some Q-tips and alcohol.
After it all dries, hit it with the McLube spray. Definitely hit the place where the hard plastic of the diffuser rests against the seal when the roof is shut.
Then give the soft rubber seal a good couple of doses of 303.
90+% chance that fixes it. Good luck.
Old 01-25-2012, 01:29 AM
  #24  
MFank
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Thanks for the tips! I'll give it a shot this weekend.
Old 01-25-2012, 10:23 AM
  #25  
NJtarga4
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I used Tom's targa top noise reduction and it has worked well, however I have found that the airfoil that pops up when the roof is open rubs against the roof when it is closed. I have used rubber gasket material from Home Depot to wrap around the airfoil and it has worked. Has anyone found a similar problem and how have you fixed it?
Old 01-25-2012, 06:17 PM
  #26  
pkf 07 Targa
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SailKote continues to work great for me. Winter and Summer... usually lasts about 6 to 8 months before I need to re-apply.
I do not need to clean my mechanism with quite the detail as described. I just use a clean lint-free cloth
Old 01-27-2012, 02:48 AM
  #27  
RennlistTomE
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Pkf - glad the McLube spray worked for you.
You make a great point, especially about subsequent 'cleanings' being simple.
Dirt won't stick to that stuff.
My mechanism was REALLY gummed up - on an '09 at one year old!
I know for a fact that the techs loaded it up with the Porsche spec lube.
Bad stuff, especially if you live in a dusty area. It's thick & gummy. Dirt sticks to it like mad. So, it took a little work to get all of that muck out.
I used the McLube bearing oil on the track & hinges. Sailkote on the rest. Haven't needed to re-apply for more than 18 months.
Old 10-03-2015, 09:40 AM
  #28  
ronnyb
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Originally Posted by RennlistTomE
Pkf - glad the McLube spray worked for you.
You make a great point, especially about subsequent 'cleanings' being simple.
Dirt won't stick to that stuff.
My mechanism was REALLY gummed up - on an '09 at one year old!
I know for a fact that the techs loaded it up with the Porsche spec lube.
Bad stuff, especially if you live in a dusty area. It's thick & gummy. Dirt sticks to it like mad. So, it took a little work to get all of that muck out.
I used the McLube bearing oil on the track & hinges. Sailkote on the rest. Haven't needed to re-apply for more than 18 months.
Hey tom, i ordered the onedrop and received it, can i also use wd40 spray to lube? and which parts should i avoid with either product? to cover your seats did you use bedsheets or towels? which seats need more protection?
thanks
Old 10-10-2015, 09:18 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ronnyb
Hey tom, i ordered the onedrop and received it, can i also use wd40 spray to lube? and which parts should i avoid with either product? to cover your seats did you use bedsheets or towels? which seats need more protection?
thanks
I wouldn't use WD40.

I used Remington Dry Lube and seems to do the trick as well. Might be easier to find locally than the McLube stuff.

You can use a towel to cover the area that you are working in, then move it as necessary.
Old 10-14-2015, 02:44 PM
  #30  
RennlistTomE
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Default More on roof squeaks

Ronnyb - I sent you a PM.
308gt4 - Agree 100%. WD40 is not what you want to use.

It's amazing to me that that there's still so much lousy information out there on what is a pretty simple fix. So:
- There are two different problems.
- 'Squeaks' usually come from the roof track. They may also come from the hatch, where any part(s) rest one on top of the other, or from the (aft) latch.
- Sticky dirt is the primary source of problems here. So...
- (Generally) Clean everything really well. Start with a good vac. Then move to QTips. Get all the old lube out. Isopropyl alcohol helps. Anything that moves, slides or fits together, especially the channel for the top's track. Look for any pivots, rollers, slides, springs or anything else that moves. Then look for where parts fit on top of each other - such as the rubber-tipped posts the hatch sits on and the latch as well. Clean them all. Well.
- After cleaning, avoid goopy silicone lube like the plague. And for god's sake don't let the Porsche techs use their glop either. WD40 might work for a week or less. Not good and not recommended.
- Lubricate every hard plastic part with McLube spray. Flex / move the part as you spray it, if possible. There are other products available now, but McLube is the no-fail option.
- Lubricate the channel of the top's track with the McLube bearing oil on a Q-tip. Run it back/forth a few times and do it again. You can use the dry lube here as well. But the bearing oil works a little better for a little longer.
- Do not use the dry spray lube on soft or rubber-y parts, like posts for the hatch. Use 303 or GummiPflege regularly on those. ...Regularly.
- 'Rattle' noises usually come from the hard plastic diffuser (blade at the front of the roof opening) not seating well when the roof is closed. Many times a spray of the McLube on the top of that diffuser will fix the issue. However, some people have used a 1/2" wide piece of sticky-back velcro there. (Only use the fabric-like side of the velcro.) Here's a link to a write-up that MFrank did about this: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...tle-fixed.html
Seriously, all the people who say that 'You just gotta live with the noises' are so far off the mark it's absurd. Almost like saying "Well you've got a half-deflated tire. You just gotta live with it."

This is a more step-by-step write up posted a while ago: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...oof-noise.html


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