ok, I just bought a 997.2 S that I am going to track in two weeks. I have decided to buy some track wheels and tires. I have no idea what to buy, but, would like a tire that can be driven a hundred miles or so to an event, but, be really good for the track. Wheels, looking for a light good looking wheel.

Have enjoyed your site and have been looking at the site for some time and actually used info to make my car selection. Thanks

09 White w/ black interior S
PDK
Sport Chrono
PASM
Heated seats
thats all

 

http://www.ccwheel.com/files/home.phphttps://rennlist.com/forums/for-sale...-hoosiers.html

look at Ronct's post a little further down

 

CCW, Forgeline, BBS, OZ, Champion, HRE


Lots of choices.

 

CCW wheels 18x9 front with 18x12 rear and Toyo R888's in either of these packages:
255/35/18 front
315/30/18 rear
or
245/40/18 front
305/35/18 rear

or do the stock sizes and 19"

RonCt has his 18" Fiske wheels and Hoosier slicks up for sale. You would need to change out the tires and sell off the Hoosiers...Hoosiers would absolutly NOT be good for you as a beginner.

Speaking to you as a beginner you should really just take you car with the stock tires on it to the track. You will not do much if any wear the 1st 2 times depending on skill to the tires. Plus street tires talk you you much more and are much better to learn on.

 

If Ron's haven't yet sold I've also got a customer with a 997GT3 who's selling his 18 inch Fikses and tires for a pretty good price too.

 

For your first visits to the track go with the street tires. If you have not tracked your car before it will take you a few track days to get near the limit on your street tires and even then you will still be working hard on brake points and turn in points, apex... Seriously the stock car is very capable.

The other issue is that R compounds will not make as much noise as you approach the limit and will not let you know you are at the limit until they are close to letting go and then they will let go much faster.

For your initial trips to the track just add a couple of pounds to each tire and have fun. The only thing I would do is bleed the brakes. I have had 2 new Pcars and both had small amounts of air in the brake lines.

 

I agree with the above. Unless you are track experienced and this is just your 1st time with this car, I'd stick with stock and make sure to get your pressures right so you don't roll the tires too much and mess up your shoulders / side walls. That's one argument for getting new wheels / tires for the track - on my 2007 C2S my tires were never the same after the first event in it. I'm not a novice (been in Black for years and was Black for my 1st event with my 2007), but it's often tough to get the pressures just right when you don't know the car at all. But, if you are just starting in DE, then you probably won't hurt the stock rims / tires at the speeds, braking, and cornering Gs you'll be experiencing. The only risk might be debris that can ding a wheel.

Depending on where you are on the continuum, you might be interested in my Fikses and Hoosiers. As others mentioned, I'd change the Hoosiers out and save them for later and put some PS2s or Bridgestone RE050A in 235 and 295 x 18" or shaved RA1s in 245 and 305 x 18" on (great all-around street / track tire). Either setup is easy to accomplish in 2 weeks.

Warning though, Fikses aren't cheap, but you get what you pay for. They are extraordinary wheels, well built, strong, modular (replace what is damaged vs. throwing a wheel out), light (18 lbs front, 20 rear), etc.

Other options are a new set of Volks from Tire Rack - a great value and instantly available (order today and in your hands in a couple of days). You mention you are on track in 2 weeks, so that doesn't give you much time. You either need to buy something off the shelf (ie: Tire Rack) or find slightly used wheel set. Personally, I have a couple of sets, Volk TE37s from Tire Rack and the Fikses.

 

thanks for your input, I do have alot of track experience and have driven my other cars with r compound tires.(the OEM tires will be ruined if I use them, for everyday driving anyway) I am looking for a tire I can drive to the track on so maybe the 888's are the way to go? I am interested in the Fikse, but, how does the 18" workout when my car is equiped with 19's and can I still use the sensors? I really appreciate your input, it is so easy to make a mistake and buy the wrong wheel/tire combo and either be unhappy or waste alot of money.

 

The R888 is perfect for driving to and from DEs. They don't really need to be shaved, heat up faster then Pilot Sport Cups and have nice progressive breakaway. I have them on 18" CCW C14s in the 255/315 sizes Mike mentioned earlier and have been very happy with them. They are a good compromise between stock and hoo hoos.

 

18s or 19s are both used on the 997. The Base 997 comes with 18" wheels and most track guys use 18s. You can pretty much mount TPMS sensors on any 18 or 19, just a matter of whether you want the information or not. I've been 50/50. On half of my track wheels / tires I have TPMS, the other half, no. The only time they are accurate is on the way to the track. Once you get there and let 10 psi out, they aren't much use. Whether you have sensors installed or not, you are going to get the error message while on the track.

I do like the RA1 as a good all-purpose street / track tire, but they must be shaved. They are still available by special order. Many like the R888 and a nice thing is they don't need to be shaved. Nitto NT01 is another hot 18" pick. Hoosiers are street legal and I've seen some guys arrive at Lime Rock on them - I guess they are OK for limited distances and only if it's dry. You probably won't be losing much compound on the street getting there and back.

 

Not an expert on the track with my car but ive done a few days and found the exact opposite was necessay. i needed to take air out. If you are pushing the car the air pressure goes up which causes bad handling. Without taking air out i was up to nearly 50 psi which is not good.

thx

cheers

 

I think my cold pressures are set at about -10 PSI from normal because I build between 10 and 12 PSI on the track. So if normal is 36 PSI, I start out with 26, and ultimately bleed out a few more while micro-adjusting.

 

With the R888, I run hot pressures of 35-36 front and 37-38 rear. I usually start at about 29/30 cold and let air out as needed between runs.

 

Thats what i found as well, not sure why one would add air at the track unless you took to much out...

cheers

 

Jongbloed Racing Wheels.