Edgy01

The odometer finally clicked over that magic number so it was time to perform a few things.

(1) The cabin fresh air filter (on the right side of the front trunk under the cowl. It's a bit easier to access if you remove the black plastic 'handle' shaped thing that is attached with 2 torx screws. Tools used: T27X100 torx driver.

(2) While up front I opened up the 12V battery (6 cells) and inspected them for electrolite levels. Added a little distilled water to 2 cells and then buttoned it back up. Tools used: Large bladed screwdriver.

(3) The engine air filter was removed a little bit differently than others have described. I loosen up the 3 hose clamps that hold on the rubber boot between the air filter box assembly and the intake manifold. I removed the entire boot and set it aside. I pulled up on the air cleaner assembly and rotated it so that the bottom of it was visible from the rear of the car. With a torx driver I removed the 8 captive screws that hold the bottom of the air box assembly to the top part, effectively sandwiching the filter itself. Tools used: 7mm nut driver for the hose clamps, T20X100 torx driver.

(4) Visually inspected the serpentine belt on the engine.

(5) Checked for fluid drips around the engine (e.g., oil and coolant).

(6) Jacked up the rear of the car with two floor jacks and removed the aluminum oil plug on the bottom of the engine. Also removed the oil filter cartridge. Drained the oil while hot. Tools used: 2 aluminum floor jacks with 2 hockey pucks, an 8mm Allen head for the drain hole, and the special Mann filter Porsche oil filter cartridge wrench that needs a 27mm wrench to remove/install it. Finally, I have a custom made oil catch-pan that I made for past 911s (so it holds a BUNCH of oil). It is made from the bottom of a 5-gallon paint container and I have scribed the inside of it every 2 quarts so that I have an idea of how much oil I drained out.

After a suitable draining time I reinstalled the oil filter cartridge (with a new o-ring) by pushing the new filter cartridge up onto the center post and then by hand spun on the bakelite/plastic cartridge case. It is marked for a torque of 2.5 NM which translates to a mere 1.84 ft lbs. Do not exceed!

I then reinstalled the oil drain plug. I made a special one this time (it's nice to have 2 so that you can let the one you're taking off fall into the container instead of trying to catch it) by JB Welding a super magnet onto the interior side of the aluminum plug. I will report in another 10,000 miles on whether it gets anything ferrous or not. (I subjected the 'welded' plug to ESS testing to ensure against magnet separation and failure).

After a suitable draining time I reinstalled that plug (with fresh aluminum washer) with the 8mm Allen wrench on the end of a torque wrench. I used about 18 ft lbs. to secure it.

I discovered that I have about 7.5 quarts of oil in my drain container. Am slowly adding one quart at a time, propping up the quart container inside the engine so that it can drain entirely. (see photo).

(7) I pulled off all four wheels to inspect the tires for cuts, nails, or blemishes. Tools used: Floor jacks, jack stands, 2 hanging bolts, 19mm softsocket and breaker bar and 1/2 in torque wrench (torqued back to 94 ft lbs).

I figured that this is essentially what the dealership would do with the car. I'll take it down some time next week to have them reset the 'service now' computer display. My service manager, David, jokingly said that they reset those for $900!

I feel better doing it myself because I learn more about my own car each time and I don't have to have the car out of my hands at all. I just do it in my garage at home. Nothing to it! My last step is to document it in my logbook.


Some better torque values:

Dan - Are you sure that it is not 25 NM of torque (which is 18-19 ft lbs)? I do not think 2.5 NM is correct. The excellent oil change DIY posted by "OCben" quotes 19 ft. lbs for the cannister and 37 ft lbs for the drain plug.

I did the first oil change on my 2008 C2S two weeks ago and used those torque settings. I believe the cannister is marked 25 or 26 NM. 2.5 NM would not be tight enough.

Please double-check.

MyEmily

One brave soul. As much as I wanted to DIY. Am afraid to missed something and pay the dealer dearly to fix it..

kauai_diver

Good info, thanks for posting.

drmarkp

Dan,
I know we have discussed this before. But is your car a long term keeper? Because I would not buy a used 997 without a FPSH. I know you take great car of your car but when it's your word against a stamped book, I know which buyers will go for. Does that not concern you?
Mark

nkhalidi

What's ESS testing? Do you think the JB Weld could come undone and contaminate your engine oil? Wouldn't it be easier to send your oil to a lab for testing to detect any metallic particles?

Coochas

Good info Dan - thanks for posting. I'll be at the 2-year mark in 2 weeks.

wetstuff

Drmark gives one an idea: rubber stamps are cheap - No?!

drmarkp

Excellent idea westuff - best of both worlds!

500

Since Porsche is monoriting your oil consumption wouldn't it have been better for the dealer do the oil change/service?

AP997S

Dan:

Well done and nice write up.

I tend to do all the 'easy' and/or straightforward maintenance and modification work myself. I consider myself to be a pretty good wrench. Been working on my cars for longer then I care to remember.

If you have the tools, space, knowledge and time there's no reason to take your car to the dealer for minor work. Warranty repairs excluded! My feeling is that when I do it . . . . it's done right, done for less, I usually learn something and finally it's self satisfying.

Remember car wash and routine oil change personnel at your typical dealership are bottom rung employees. They can be dangerous to you and your car. Quality control in the service bays just isn't there because of overhead and time constrainsts. Whenever I'm forced to bring my car to a dealer for service I tend to be a real PITA. I go over everything they claim to have done and carefully inspect my car for 'service shop artifacts' (ie. scratches, dings, etc).

KeninBlaine

Thanks for the writeup. Now I feel really good about the $832 I spent having my dealer do the same service on my car last Tuesday.

PAULSPEED

Hi,
If you lift the front wheels you will get more oil
out. I change my oil on a sloped driveway. I have pulled
more then 8 quarts out of the pan. I put seven in and started
it up just to get an engine error light. I disconnected the battery and
reconnected it, and then added another quart. After checking the oil it
was still low. I then added another half quart.
Paul

AP997S

If you really think a 'Stamped Porsche Maintenance Book' ensures that the car has been serviced and cared for properly I'd like to offer you some great marsh land in Florida.

I would tend to buy a Porsche from a true 'motor head' before I buy one that has been cared for by a dealer's technician. Assuming all other factors are constant. I will admit that you must bring your car in (to a dealer) for warranty repairs and matters like that. Once the warranty period is over you're best served by a independent Porsche mechanic.

BTW: What does FPSH stand for?

tkids

Thanks for the write up Dan! 20k. Wow. Someday I will be doing the same! From what I have experienced the wheels will influence the sale more than any Porsche rubber stamp will!

Edgy01

In the past I have bought a couple of used Porsches. I definitely looked at the paperwork with the car to get an idea of maintenance. I keep meticulous records. Several years ago I was in a warranty battle with VW over a Vanagon (which I still have) and its defective head gaskets. I had about 90,000 miles on that vehicle when the head gaskets finally failed. Most Vanagons in those days failed by 60,000 and were fully covered by VW. I went into arbitration with VW and a third party (AAA). They fully accepted my documentation of when I added and how much. At the end they awarded me 75% of the cost of replacing the heads. VW had to pay. Keeping good records is important,--whether your dealer does this or you. There is considerable merit to having a good relationship with your dealer as you want them to know your car well,--but keep in mind that they service hundreds of vehicles. You, perhaps, maintain a half dozen tops. It's a lot easier to remember quirks with 6 cars or less than hundreds, even with a computer to remember all that stuff at the dealerships. Only you will care about your car as much as you do.

Fortunately for us all these latest Porsches are that much easier to maintain. You don't have to adjust the clutch or the valves at all (a big improvement) and just need to stay on top of a few fluids and measurements.

I forgot to mention that I will need to service my brakes. I will do a full flush of the fluid which is easier with a buddy unless you have a few slick tools. I have a friend that will want his done at the same time so we will learn on one and then do the other!

Yes, I will be holding onto this car a long time,--unless they come out with something even MORE exotic that I can't resist!!

ESS--environmental stress screening,--from 250ºF to -20F