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V1 hard wire w/o splicing with pics

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Old 09-16-2014, 08:00 PM
  #16  
Psymon
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Or the simplest is to buy their Savvy. Plug-n-Play and no Splice-n-Dice!

Scroll the middle of this page:
https://store.valentine1.com/store/
Old 09-16-2014, 08:25 PM
  #17  
ltcjmramos
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Thx. A bit more $, but a lot less work (or questions).

Or use the hard wire power adapter that came with the V1. Seems to be the same as outlined above, no?
Old 09-16-2014, 10:06 PM
  #18  
Ezkill
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Originally Posted by ltcjmramos

The first pic in post #4 seems to have a purple fuse attached to the fuse tap, which also seems to be the case in the third pic. Am I seeing this right? I have found fuse taps, but none that will accept a piggyback fuse. I would think the inline fuse holder would suffice.

I have the "telephone" cord, which is what I assume I will use to run to the V1. Do I just snip off one of the connectors, and crimp that onto the fuse tap? From where does the ground wire come (pic #4)?

Also, looking at another DIY posting at Teamspeed, he indicates C1 is for rwd, C5 for awd. This is contrary to the above.

Thanks for any assist
You're going to have an empty fuse socket in that row and that's the one you want. My car is a C2S and I tapped power from C1 as that was the empty socket and I can confirm it is only powered with the ignition on. I used it for something else though so I can't give you instructions on splicing the power cord. Ground wire would come from the cord you splice for sure, so would the positive wire.

The only other optimization I would recommend for an even easier install is spending the 40 dollars on the savvy for the V1 and using the ODB port to power the V1. The advantage(other then not having to splice) is that you can have the detector very quiet under a certain MPH that you can set on the savvy. My true annoyance with radar detectors has always been when they go off full tilt and you are doing 20mph as it is. The savvy solves that and gives you ignition on power with no splicing.

I also routed my power cord THROUGH the A-Pillar first and then into the same seal that he used. It's a completely clean install with no wire going around that vent. I believe the gap there is actually an expansion joint between the two materials and I didn't want to stuff a wire into it and create squeaks. Hopefully that helps.

Last edited by Ezkill; 09-16-2014 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Edit: Some double info here, had the thread open for a while and didn't see the above response.
Old 09-16-2014, 10:08 PM
  #19  
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Double post ...deleted, just that kind of day.
Old 09-16-2014, 11:35 PM
  #20  
ATLDiver
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I used the 'add a fuse' option on my Passport install. Turned out very clean, (whoever posted the rolled up pieces of Velcro for the headliner, thanks.) I'm debating buying a mirror mount as I don't like the suction cup bracket but as a positive, it's up near the rear-view and being in a cab flipping the visor down hides it.
Old 09-17-2014, 12:01 AM
  #21  
ltcjmramos
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Savvy is $70, but might be worth it. Thx
Old 09-17-2014, 12:05 AM
  #22  
StormRune
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ltcjmramos, I posted a couple of times on this with respect to my Escort install. The essentials are pretty much the same for a V1.

Looking here I mention the answer to your ground question: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ctor-2.html#16

More info is another post here: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...etector.html#9

Finally, I would recommend just getting one of the direct wire adapters that Valentine sells on their website. If you have a cigarette lighter adapter you'd rather use, you can buy a hard-wireable cigarette lighter adapter from Radio Shack (possible Autozone or Pepboys?). You then just hook the fused wire to that, plug it in to the detector plug, and stow them (wrapped in rubber or cloth electrical tape to prevent rattling or separation) between the carpeted fuse panel. I went with the direct wire for my Passport Max as it seems cleaner (and yours appears to be only $13 or a little more if you need the longer cable). I either case, I recommend against cutting the telephone cord itself.

Edit: I responded to your last post before seeing the other recent entries that all look very good too. The Savvy sounds very interesting and may be the way to go.
Old 09-17-2014, 12:08 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ATLDiver
I used the 'add a fuse' option on my Passport install. Turned out very clean, (whoever posted the rolled up pieces of Velcro for the headliner, thanks.) I'm debating buying a mirror mount as I don't like the suction cup bracket but as a positive, it's up near the rear-view and being in a cab flipping the visor down hides it.
If you don't already have it (you may but I can't tell for sure), the newer sticky cup mount that Escort started selling about a year ago works a whole lot better than the earlier rubber cup solution. Much more rigid and stay put a very long time if you are careful about making sure you don't accidentally get anything (dust, hair, etc.) stuck on the sticky part before you attach it.
Old 09-17-2014, 12:21 AM
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ltcjmramos
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Thx. I already have the direct wire adapter, and will use that.
Old 09-17-2014, 12:22 AM
  #25  
Psymon
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Like other mentioned, the additional and primary advantage for Savvy is being able to silence / dip the alert when below a certain speed. Even though the hard-wiring for V1 had already been done by the previous owner when i bought the car, I still added the Savvy for this feature and also switch the power to be taken from the Savvy. This also free up the previous hard-wiring to be used by the dash cam ;-)

Originally Posted by ltcjmramos
Thx. A bit more $, but a lot less work (or questions).

Or use the hard wire power adapter that came with the V1. Seems to be the same as outlined above, no?
Old 09-17-2014, 08:23 PM
  #26  
ltcjmramos
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Originally Posted by StormRune
If you don't already have it (you may but I can't tell for sure), the newer sticky cup mount that Escort started selling about a year ago works a whole lot better than the earlier rubber cup solution. Much more rigid and stay put a very long time if you are careful about making sure you don't accidentally get anything (dust, hair, etc.) stuck on the sticky part before you attach it.
These https://www.escortradar.com/store/suction-cups.html?
Old 09-17-2014, 08:42 PM
  #27  
Dennis C
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Lots of people tap into the sunroof power wiring over on the 996 board. I assume that would work for a 997, but I don't know for a fact. It's really easy with "pinch" style wire taps like Scotchlock connectors. I used sunroof power for my aftermarket Homelink auto-dimming mirror in my old C4S.
Old 09-17-2014, 09:05 PM
  #28  
ltcjmramos
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Originally Posted by ltcjmramos
Thx. I already have the direct wire adapter, and will use that.
Done using the wire adapter. Easy enough once I understood all I asked about.

Thanks all
Old 09-17-2014, 09:58 PM
  #29  
Marine Blue
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I have a V1 which I had hard wired into my C32. With all the radar and false alarms I would agree with others that Savy is the way to go.
Old 09-17-2014, 10:51 PM
  #30  
StormRune
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Originally Posted by ltcjmramos
Don't let me mislead you on your particular question, I think you have a V1 if I read correctly. I was making a reference for another poster who owned an Escort... unless you have one of those too.

In any case, for the Escorts, I was referring to this one, not the one you listed: https://www.escortradar.com/stickycup/. Almost gooey-sticky to the touch and holds like crazy.


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