The PSE for your 2009 will cost $2,550 from the dealer.

The time to retrofit the Porsche Sport Exhaust including electronics, per the most recent Porsche TSB is 600 time units. 600 TU equates to 10 hours of $100/hour labor.

This is one reason most PSE installs are done without the full electronic install. As a reminder, Porsche was nice to us, as the default position for the muffler flapper is in the loud mode.

Cheers,
Gundo

 

My dealer wanted $850 for the install on my car. Several good, local independents quoted less than half that.

I did the PSE with X51 headers on my car recently and absolutely love the way it sounds. I did the Carnewal over ride switch and am grateful because my wife appreciates the opportunity to turn down the loud pedal at will.

I seriously considered doing the Gundo hack but wasn't able to sample that mod in person. I found that videos, etc. are terrible ways of transmitting sound quality and was leery about hacking cans for an un tried sound. But lots of folks here and on other boards have done this and are very happy.

 

Not sure what the Carnewal override switch is. There was mention made earlier that the PSE for 997.2 was different from 997.1,...does this relate to weight? What was the cost for the X51/PSE package out the door? PM is OK. Thanks.

 

Hey Gundo, since you're around, I just gotta ask (I'm kind of new, sorry):
Did you pick your name because of the hack, or did it become the "Gundo Hack" in your honour?

 

Info here: http://www.carnewal.com/

A few possibilities with the factory PSE:

- Full install: When activated by the button on the center panel, the valve is controlled by the ECU. The problem here is that, even when selected, the valve closes (exhaust goes quiet) between ~ 35 - 75 kph. To me, this is the only problem with the PSE

- You can disconnect the "orange" connector and have the system on full loud all the time. Sounds great but you lose the option of on/off. Cheap and easy

- Install a separate switch in the car that goes directly to the valve (to the orange connector). This a true on/off, i.e. no cutting in and out at 35 - 75 kph. The circuit is "normally open", meaning that, if you remove power, the valve opens so what you are doing with the switch is interrupting the circuit.

- Get the Carnewal remote: This is the same as the separate on/off switch but no need for wiring. You get a key fob remote and the other piece is connected to the valve. Elegant solution but adds another remote to your collection.

Got these pics on RL but can't remember where.

 

Gundo, which mufflers are your running currently?
Do you have PSE (as it shows in your avatar) or do you have "Gundo" hacked cans?

 

Yes, I had a support bracket fail so they were both replaced under warranty. I use my PSE in the ON position probably about 95% of the time, if not higher.

Some time back people were wondering WHY Porsche chose to default it to the OFF position and forced the operator to select it to turn it on. My guess is that the action of running the solenoid to open and close the baffles is good for it--to essentially regularly exercise it. If you leave it open all the time, it might seize in that position and then never close when you want it closed. Just my two cents.

 

Question for your install. With the Carnewal remote, did you still have to wire to ECU? Like can you also use the sports button to engage? if not, then how does the remote work without wiring?

Thanks

 

He invented it, thus named it

 

Thanks! Great thread. Think I'd like to control as well as not have cut out automatically at higher speeds.

 

Cool!

 

Hi - my handle has been Gundo on a variety of Porsche boards for a very long time (and quite a while prior to hacking up 997 cans). Had my Boxsters for much longer than I've owned the Carrera.

I guess the name just stuck - not sure who the first poster was to use the reference. I've found it sort of amusing. All I did was weld some pipe, and the hack has taken on a life of its own.

My avatar is a bit old - the PSE in the picture was a test. Right now I'm running AWE cans as a test, and I don't really like them. Will be moving back to hacked cans as soon as I can find some to mess with.

I would love for someone to point me in the direction of a 2" flapper valve that would be manually activated - it could be an even better solution.

cheers
Gundo

 

Thanks man. I've been around for less than a year, and each time there's a GTG or other event, and the conversation turns to exhaust "options", someone invariably brings up the Gundo Hack.
It's quite an honour to talk to The man

 

You can wire it however you want. You have to get power; however, no matter what.

I did not want to tie it into the DME for a variety of reasons. Most important was that i did not want to tie the loud/not loud function into the sport button. I find the sport throttle setting too touchy for street driving.

 

For all of the years that I owned private airplanes (at an unjustifiable cost) I was looking at about $12,000 a year for general expenses including mandatory annual inspections/repairs. I liken it to owning a Porsche in that these are expensive machines to buy and to own. If you don't want to spend the money (for parts, repairs, maintenance, labor) then you should really rethink the purchase entirely. Sure Porsche OEM parts are expensive and so is the labor but like the airplane, what is the cost of inferior parts and labor?

FWIW - I look at all of the RMS/IMS fear posts about the cost of an engine and it brings to mind the call I got from my airplane mechanic while on a business trip (in about 2001) - "you have 3 cylinders with low or questionable compression, you might want to look at a full replacement of cylinders given the hours on the engine (a flat six I might add, albeit 540 cubic inches). Cost is $12,000 for the cylinders and about $3,000 labor --- when do you want me to start?" BTW cost of a full rebuilt engine was about $22,000 in 2001. I guess I look at catastrophic IMS failure the same way - got to spend the money if you want to keep enjoying the toys.