Car wash tips
05-11-2007, 10:09 AM
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Car wash tips
What's the best stuff to use for washing the car? More interested in type of wash mitt (i.e., what material or brand is best). My car is black so I really want to be careful about not getting any swirl marks on it.
Thanks.
Thanks.
05-11-2007, 11:02 AM
#2
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05-11-2007, 11:13 AM
#3
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you want something which
a) hangs onto the crud
b) is soft so it doesn't leave scratches/swirls
Best option is a real wool wash mitt.
Technique - with car cool and in the shade
Rinse car thoroughly with hose to wash off as much dust as possible
Then, starting top-down - Use a soap gun attached to your hose to suds up an area at a time - the suds lift dirt and suspend it away from the paint - so lots of suds is good!
http://www.autogeek.net/auqufofogun.html
Have a large bucket of clean water with your mitt soaking in it - you may want to include a grit screen in the bottom to keep any grit away from your mitt.
Use the mitt to wash the panel you just sudded up - use your hand/mitt flat on the paint - move in straight lines and not swirls to avoid adding swirls to the paint - rinse the mitt after each panel to release the dirt from the mitt
Rinse the area you just cleaned with the hose, and move to the next area.
Repeat suds and wash process until you're done.
To remove the many water droplets from the car, take the nozzle/gun off the hose, and let the water sheet smoothly over the car panels.
You'll be amazed to see the sheeting water 'remove' all the water droplets, leaving almost no water on the paint!
Use an edgeless microfiber towel to mop-up the remaining drops, with minimal pressure, again moving it in straight lines only.
Use a 2nd dedicated mitt for the wheels - never use this for the paint!
Use a good cleaner, like simple green, to lift the brake dust, and use the mitt to get into the wheel and clean inside and out.
Rinse mitt often in it's own bucket (never the main bucket), and rinse the wheel when you've finished.
That's basically it - you're washed!
You can then move to clay, polish, wax, detail etc if you like
a) hangs onto the crud
b) is soft so it doesn't leave scratches/swirls
Best option is a real wool wash mitt.
Technique - with car cool and in the shade
Rinse car thoroughly with hose to wash off as much dust as possible
Then, starting top-down - Use a soap gun attached to your hose to suds up an area at a time - the suds lift dirt and suspend it away from the paint - so lots of suds is good!
http://www.autogeek.net/auqufofogun.html
Have a large bucket of clean water with your mitt soaking in it - you may want to include a grit screen in the bottom to keep any grit away from your mitt.
Use the mitt to wash the panel you just sudded up - use your hand/mitt flat on the paint - move in straight lines and not swirls to avoid adding swirls to the paint - rinse the mitt after each panel to release the dirt from the mitt
Rinse the area you just cleaned with the hose, and move to the next area.
Repeat suds and wash process until you're done.
To remove the many water droplets from the car, take the nozzle/gun off the hose, and let the water sheet smoothly over the car panels.
You'll be amazed to see the sheeting water 'remove' all the water droplets, leaving almost no water on the paint!
Use an edgeless microfiber towel to mop-up the remaining drops, with minimal pressure, again moving it in straight lines only.
Use a 2nd dedicated mitt for the wheels - never use this for the paint!
Use a good cleaner, like simple green, to lift the brake dust, and use the mitt to get into the wheel and clean inside and out.
Rinse mitt often in it's own bucket (never the main bucket), and rinse the wheel when you've finished.
That's basically it - you're washed!
You can then move to clay, polish, wax, detail etc if you like
Last edited by cdodkin; 05-11-2007 at 03:08 PM.
05-11-2007, 11:17 AM
#4
Race Car
The key to no scratches is constant high volume of water as you wipe to help eliminate any grit staying in the mit or rag that will definantely scratch the finish. Bucket washing is a no no if the car has ANY dirt on it.
05-11-2007, 11:28 AM
#5
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Your wash tools should provide a lot of soapy water. The more soapy water you can get on your car the better. This is important for lubrication. The lubrication created by soapy water is what prevents dirt from scratching the paint.
That's what a soap gun does for you, combined with a real wool mitt which traps dirt in it's soft fibers allowing you to remove it, scratch free, from the paint.
Proper rinsing of the mitt between panels leaves that dirt in the rinse bucket, and away from the paint.
As you can see - I have a black car - and using the bucket method with suds gun and a real wool mitt does not cause scratching of the paint.
Suggest you read the how-to sections on Autopia, as these provide excellent details from a pro, on techniques to use during detailing.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-wash.html
That's what a soap gun does for you, combined with a real wool mitt which traps dirt in it's soft fibers allowing you to remove it, scratch free, from the paint.
Proper rinsing of the mitt between panels leaves that dirt in the rinse bucket, and away from the paint.
As you can see - I have a black car - and using the bucket method with suds gun and a real wool mitt does not cause scratching of the paint.
Suggest you read the how-to sections on Autopia, as these provide excellent details from a pro, on techniques to use during detailing.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-wash.html
Last edited by cdodkin; 05-11-2007 at 11:45 AM.
05-11-2007, 12:11 PM
#6
Pro
OCBen had a couple of really nice write ups on detailing; One was lengthy but very complete. You might be able to find it if you use the search. Ben, maybe you can post the link to that and your awsome DYI oil change link again?
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05-11-2007, 03:22 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by sharmat
OCBen had a couple of really nice write ups on detailing; One was lengthy but very complete. You might be able to find it if you use the search. Ben, maybe you can post the link to that and your awsome DYI oil change link again?
It's quite thorough for those who want to learn the why's and not just the how's.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/232170-preventing-fine-micro-scratches-and-keeping-your-new-car-looking-new.html
05-12-2007, 04:09 PM
#10
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Thought of a couple of P-Car specific tips to ease the process.
1 use the hose to rinse out each seam around the car as you rinse - this flushes out the suds and stops them leaking down your clean paint work later and leaving spots
2 When you've finished the water sheeting exercise, pop the engine cover and leave in the upright position to drain, while you dry the front and top of the car - this gets rid of water trapped in the vent slats and makes it easier to dry when you close it at the end.
3 Dry under the mirrors - otherwise they drip on your doors
4 When drying the doors & sills, open them and dry underneath from the outside and inside in order to get to all the water trapped under the double sealed doors - otherwise they will drip on your sills when you close them up!
5 Dry screen and wiper blades before drying hood - otherwise the wipers drip on the clean hood when you put them in the upright position
6 when you're done - drive the car round the block and use the brakes - this helps stop the rusty rotor syndrome
7 Use a good UV plastic protector like Aerospace 303 on the trim around the front scuttle etc, to keep it looking black.
1 use the hose to rinse out each seam around the car as you rinse - this flushes out the suds and stops them leaking down your clean paint work later and leaving spots
2 When you've finished the water sheeting exercise, pop the engine cover and leave in the upright position to drain, while you dry the front and top of the car - this gets rid of water trapped in the vent slats and makes it easier to dry when you close it at the end.
3 Dry under the mirrors - otherwise they drip on your doors
4 When drying the doors & sills, open them and dry underneath from the outside and inside in order to get to all the water trapped under the double sealed doors - otherwise they will drip on your sills when you close them up!
5 Dry screen and wiper blades before drying hood - otherwise the wipers drip on the clean hood when you put them in the upright position
6 when you're done - drive the car round the block and use the brakes - this helps stop the rusty rotor syndrome
7 Use a good UV plastic protector like Aerospace 303 on the trim around the front scuttle etc, to keep it looking black.
05-13-2007, 04:03 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
Can clay get out treesap, etc without scratching my paint (even more)? 
Wash area first, then dry.
Use clay with plenty of spray clay lube to keep things smooth and scratch free.
light pressure and long smooth strokes with a piece of clay the size of 2 qtrs
work a small area at a time.
wipe up excess lube with a MF towel.
Mould clay regularly in your hands to mix contaminants that you've collected - and keep fresh clay against the paint.
If you drop the clay on the ground, discard, and start a new piece.
When the area is clean and smooth - wax to re-seal.
05-14-2007, 10:06 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by cdodkin
6 when you're done - drive the car round the block and use the brakes - this helps stop the rusty rotor syndrome
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...2&postcount=64