DAMN! Constantly Stalling Out Of 1st Gear!!
09-12-2007, 09:03 PM
#32
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I checked the owners manual and the posting board on engine stall and this thread was the closest fit. So here it goes...I have had my first P -car 06 C2S since May and today for the first time I stalled the car in heavy traffic. Was a little surprised (have drive a stick for 20 years), turned the key to restart and nothing. I kind of panicked as the horns started and swear I turned the key to off and tried again...nothing. Finally turned the key to off and pulled it out, re-inserted the key and turned it over and she fired up.
Question, what is the proper procedure to re-start after a stall?
Question, what is the proper procedure to re-start after a stall?
09-12-2007, 09:12 PM
#34
The Penguin King
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You should be able to restart by turning the key to the full off position, and then turning it back on. You should not have to remove the key. I know this because...
Like many here, I've been driving an manual transmission for a long time (Since 1974), and I've stalled my 997S several times in a year of ownership. Much more than I've ever stalled any other car. For me, it is usually when I'm wanting to pull away from a light slowly.
Like many here, I've been driving an manual transmission for a long time (Since 1974), and I've stalled my 997S several times in a year of ownership. Much more than I've ever stalled any other car. For me, it is usually when I'm wanting to pull away from a light slowly.
09-12-2007, 09:28 PM
#35
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Have the clutch checked. With a very light touch on the throttle & smooth clutch engagement, my 997S will come off the line at 800 rpm. I am, however, also guilty of occasionally stalling.
09-12-2007, 11:01 PM
#36
Banned
And the reason why you can't restart by just turning the ignition switch to the START position after being in the ON, like you can with lesser cars, is because.... ???
If you answered: 'so you don't damage the starter pinion gear/flywheel gear teeth in case the engine is indeed on' score yourself the full 10 pts.
09-13-2007, 12:04 AM
#37
Rennlist Member
Mine, too, stalls more than any car I've ever driven.
Then I stumbled onto this technique..
sport mode = ON
accelerator = FLOORED
clutch pedal = RELEASE
That seems to have cured the problem.
Then I stumbled onto this technique..
sport mode = ON
accelerator = FLOORED
clutch pedal = RELEASE
That seems to have cured the problem.
09-13-2007, 01:02 AM
#38
Just so we're clear...the clutch is hydraulic...it can not be adjusted. You can however replace the fluid and bleed the lines. This sometimes will change the engagement point. This from the manual:
There is a clutch slave cylinder also.
Check that the pedal is in end position by pulling at the pedal (without the use of force) towards the
driver's seat.
Note
· The pedal must not give way during the process.
· If it gives way, the fault is in the boost spring or in the pedals.
The clutch push rod and the boost spring are not adjustable. The boost spring has 2 functions, namely to
provide pedal force assistance and to return the pedal. The following are some of the points which are
requirements for perfect clutch operation:
· Correct bleeding of the clutch hydraulics.
· No leaks in the hydraulic system.
· Pedal return to the starting position.
· Installation position of the pedals in accordance with the series condition.
driver's seat.
Note
· The pedal must not give way during the process.
· If it gives way, the fault is in the boost spring or in the pedals.
The clutch push rod and the boost spring are not adjustable. The boost spring has 2 functions, namely to
provide pedal force assistance and to return the pedal. The following are some of the points which are
requirements for perfect clutch operation:
· Correct bleeding of the clutch hydraulics.
· No leaks in the hydraulic system.
· Pedal return to the starting position.
· Installation position of the pedals in accordance with the series condition.
Checking clutch free play
The clutch master cylinder has an inner stop. The push rod and the clutch pedal are always pressed against this
stop by the boost spring. Due to the automatic hydraulic adjustment of the clutch, it is not possible to
determine the clutch play by checking at the clutch pedal.
The clutch master cylinder has an inner stop. The push rod and the clutch pedal are always pressed against this
stop by the boost spring. Due to the automatic hydraulic adjustment of the clutch, it is not possible to
determine the clutch play by checking at the clutch pedal.
09-13-2007, 02:03 AM
#39
Nordschleife Master
It's interesting to read this thread and notice so many people with decades of experience reporting they stall their 997s. I say time is quickly coming to get rid of the clutch and shift clutch-less with either the current tip or a future PDK. And this comes from a stick/clutch driver and I rarely stall it (while always launching it below 1kRPM). 
09-13-2007, 06:37 AM
#40
Race Car
+1 ... i tried to do an impressive launch without doing a hard launch when at a light next to my friend. Well i stalled it and started it back up and passed him.....he had no idea i had stalled it! Thank god for turbos. Sport mode deff changes how you start the car off in first gear.
09-13-2007, 11:54 AM
#42
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I stall mine
very occassionally.. but only when I have been driving in sport mode, and then (try) reverse into my garage.. And like many here, I was born driving a stick shift car
09-13-2007, 11:57 AM
#43
Unique Title
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I stalled my 997S a half-dozen times the first day I got it; never had any problems with my Boxster or any other manual transmissions either. It only took me a day to get used to the lighter flywheel and now it's not a problem. I haven't stalled in months since I retrained my feet.
09-13-2007, 01:32 PM
#44
The clutch pedal on these cars arent adjustable, you may have air in the system. The e-throttle cars 99C4, 2000+ everything you shouldnt have to use ANY throttle to make the car come from a stop, about 1200RPM should be all you need, anything more and you are abusing the clutch. 997's do release low.
Mark
Mark
