Jerry Fisher

I am considering trying a Menzerna polish (P0106FF) that was designed for the newer clear coat finishes. I have been advised that this product would only benefit the newer ceramic crystal type of clear coat finshes vs. using their older FPII polish if the car had the older clear finsh. Do the post 2005 Porsches use the new type of super hard, ceramic clear coat ala/ M-B or the older style clear coats?

OCBen

P-cars do not use the nano-particle clear that MB does. Deanski here has used and recommends the Menzerna polishes. He'll chime in eventually.

In the meantime, here's more info on this special clearcoat:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...2&postcount=46

Jerry Fisher

thanks for the info. I am very fond of the Menzerna line ( Terry at properautocare) uses a picture of my MINI on his customer testimonials for the FMJ sealant) and have both the IP and FPII "in stock".
However, if the new stuff is better for the 997S or any of the other cars, I would give it a try.

I will look for Deanski's response.

erv

I wish porsche would use the ceramic clear coat. The porsche clear coat and paint is the softest and least durable I've ever seen.

Deanski

Good evening...

First, evaluate the finish. Does it have many swirls and marring? Reason I'm asking is Porsche paint is soft. Although you'll not have issues with 106FF and a polish pad on a PC, I'd always go with a finer polish first. The FPII is a finishing polish and can do a really nice job as long as the swirls and marring are not all over the finish and too deep.

Always wash it well, clay the finish as you do not want anything kicking up when using a polisher.

If you do have quite a bit of swirls, you could use the 106FF, but you will have to use a cutting pad to get the particles to cut down a bit to remove the defects and then they break-down to a fine polish afterwards. Also, keep a bottle of distilled water in a spray bottle to mist the pad and work area when working with 106FF as it can dry a bit fast and you need to work it longer.

If you have very minor marring the FPII would be the best bet. Start the PC on a high speed as you work it until it breaks down, then slow it down.

Then, there is Sonus products that are designed around the pads. Also developed by another "P" car owner, which helps. Nice product line.

I too wish they went to the PPG CeramiClear system. I think the real reason is soft paint gives a bit on rock hits. Hard paint (less Ceramiclear) can chip like mad as they are very brittle.

Menzerna is one fine product, but it does have it's specific use. Even though 106FF was designed for the PPG finishes, we found how to work it to our advantage on regular clearcoats. As long as you let it fully break down till it starts to dust, and it WILL dust. That's why you have to keep it wet. The Blackfire version has more lube in it to make it work longer. Same polish as 106FF, just able to be worked longer.

I assume you will be using the PC as opposed to a rotary correct?

Regards,
Deanski

Jerry Fisher

Thanks, Deanski. The Carrera is only 3 months old and so far the paint is in great shape. I drive it 2-3 times per week and so far it has not seen any bad weather. I do have clear bra so the front end is protected. It sounds like you are advising I stick w/ IP and FPII that I already have. I use the FPII for the most part on the cars and only dig out the IP when needed. I also use the finishing glaze. I am using a PC and use FMJ as my wax/sealer in lieu of PS21 I used to top off the cars with. I think its shine is better and it lasts alot longer ( 2 products websites show a picture of my MINI on their ads for FMJ-one w/ permission and one "borrowed"

My Mini and my wifes A-6 are the daily drivers and the A-6 takes the biggest beating parked outside.

I will hit the A-6 w/ IP in the spring and perhaps IP or FPII for the Mini. I will take a hard look at the Audi. It may need a high speed buffing at this point by a professional detailer to look really good.

I appreciate your advice, you just saved me $50.

Deanski

If it's that new, then by all means, skip 106FF. IP and FPII will work perfect. In fact IP is very close to 106FF with 106FF having finer particles that are very sharp (to cut PPG Ceramiclear) and break down to almost a clay-type abrasive for fine finishing. They are very close in cut/gloss.

A PC with some of the Menzerna polishes will take longer for them to correct as Menzerna was developed for rotary use, but it just takes a bit longer and a bit more downward contact pressure from the PC to the finish for it to work well with the PC. Sometimes using a more aggressive pad also helps for light defect removal, then switching to a polishing pad to burnish the finish when the polish breaks down to dust.

There are some new pads made by Lake Country called CCS pads which work well, along with the new green pads designed for German finishes from ProperAutoCare.Com as some finishes can be hard (BMW) and soft (Porsche).

Glad you use a paint film. It saved my hood when a hard rubber mud-flap from some small car was kicked-up from the highway and struck my hood. The film protected it thank God!

If you have any issues or further questions, please let me kno,

Deanski

usmarine2003

I need some help.

I have a new 06 911 with the clear bra. Does someone have a link to an abridged version of paint care? All the product names/codes/and general acronyms are a bit overwhelming.

I am looking for general instructions... wash, rub some clay bar, rinse, and wax/protect. Pages and pages of instructions are too much!

I am looking for use this type of car wash, this type of clay and this type of wax... maybe a couple of the top brands for each category.

Deanski

Here's a great start: Guide to Detailing This will give you a very good start on How-To along with the ebook on this as well.

Mostly, for longer term protection, you have to look at sealants. And there's a bunch of them, all have good merits and longevity and look. For simple sealants, Klasse makes an AIO (All In One) which cleans/polishes and protects. They also augment it with their SG (Sealant Glaze).

My personal sealant I use on black is Zaino show car polish. As of now, Zaino is in pre-production of a very slick new product that is a wipe-on/walk-away polish/sealant. Prior to this, they have the two main sealants: Z5-Pro and Z2-Pro. Z5 will add a little filling for very minor marring. Z2 is very very clear. Then the QD (Quick Detailing) sprays, Z6 and Z8. Washing is done with Z7.

Washing: Two buckets (one with soap, one to rinse) and sheepskin mitts. Use lots of suds to capture dirt off the finish. RInse often in rinse bucket. Dry with hand-held leaf blower as long as area is still wet, follow with waffel weave MF towel.

Clay: Take your clay, cut it up into thirds, put the remaining ones in a plastic container. After wash/dry, put on a pair of latex gloves, kneed the clay flat to a silver dollar size. Use a clay lube and wet the finish and rub it back and forth until it moves freely. Continue with the rest of the car.

Polish: Best accomplished with a "PC" or Porter Cable 7424 polisher and assortment of pads.

LSP (Last Step Product): Sealant or wax. Wax looks great, deep/wet, but only lasts 30 days or a bit more. Sealants can last 6 months or longer.

Interior: Leather, I find Sonus Leather conditioner, works to release the new tanning oils from Porsche leather. Most leather conditioners will add a leather fragrence, not what I want in a Porsche. Cleaning: 6 parts distilled water, 1 part Woolite. Most leather cleaners are mostly the same thing with coloring and fragrence anyway.

Read through the Autopia guide. Become a member and you will have endless resources to pull from, reviews, short cuts and pictures to see how some of these products perform.

Hope this helps,

Regards,
Deanski