mglobe

Similar problem with my midnight blue 997. Two things helped:

1) Zaino
2) After owning it for a couple of months I became SLIGHTLY less neurotic about keeping it clean

Note: only slightly less neurotic. I'm lucky if I can make it a full week without washing it.

Deanski

Permaplate is a sealant. You can remove it, but it will take mild polishing, say with P21S Paintwork Cleanser or other fine polish. ANother way was to use an alcohol wipe-down, but since this product may have a catalyst, it may still need to be polished off. Possibility it can be clayed off as well, but unless you have debris on the finish, no need to clay, just wash and polish.

Zaino is also a sealant and is one of the better sealants out for showcars and daily drivers due to the longevity. It will not harm paint. It too can be used with a catalyst, but it is use is mostly for drying time and the ability to "layer" up to 3 coats in one session. Zaino goes on very very thin. One ounce will do your car several times!

Once you get the old sealant off, you can still go back to P21S if that works for you! If it's a darker color finish, you can try a paste wax from Poorboys world called Nattys Blue, which I did a side-by-side test with other detailers and no one could tell between it and Souveran, which costs $70 a can. Nattys costs a whole lot less. Poorboys also has some very good polishes that can be used in the sun as well, not that I'd do one in the sun.

Since you had such a bad experience with sealants, you may want to keep to a caranuba. It seems you've been happy using caranuba, so why change? If you do decide to go to a sealant later, strip any wax and oils by a dish detergent wash due to its alkalinity, it strips waxes and oils. Or the alcohol wipe-down will work even better.

If you haven't viewed the Permaplate site, here it is: PermaPlate Paintguard

Let me know how your're doing!

Deanski

Deanski

Black is always tuff to work on and Porsche paint is also soft as well.

As long as the finish is smooth as glass, skip the claying and start polishing.

Yes, remove the swirls first. Depending on how bad, and if you have access to a Porter-Cable DA polisher and pads, start with a fine polish first. If that doesn't work well, step up the polish before going to a full cutting pad which always will haze a finish (but the swirls will be gone) then you have to bring back up the finish with a polish pad and a good polish to remove haze.

Chances are, it's not that bad, so go with a polish like Menzerna Intensive polish and Final Polish II. The name sounds like a heavy polish, but Intensive is mild. Final Polish II will bring out a deep shine! Last pass, I switch to a finish pad to let the polish burnish the finish to a very deep wet gloss.

You then can go straight to wax or sealant depending on how you maintain the finish.

Get some good Mirco-Fiber towels from say Pakshak or other sites. Use sheepskin mitts and now there is even foam guns to attach to a hose and mix up your favorite wash soap. Autogeek sells these foam guns. Helps lift off dirt before you move it with a mitt.

If you don't want to spend this much effort, find a good local detail shop, see the work they do and if they have worked with Porsche paint. Let them take out the swirls so all you need to do is maintain it going forward.

Hope this helps! And if you need more info, please feel free to PM me.

Deanski

Deanski

Pollen will not just hose-off. You need to float it off. A good foam gun will help, but since pollen contains sap in a very small amount, stick to a finish. If the finish was maintained with a QD often, less likely it will stick, but if out in the sun, all bets are off!

I have black as you can see in my avitar. It's a battle of washing, drying and getting it into the garage in time. I QD often after every wash to keep it slick. For drying, I use a Toro handheld leaf blower. As long as the area is wet from washing, it works w/o dust pickup. Never use in a dry area unless you want to sandblast a finish.

A foam gun, say like the ones from Autogeek and others works well. This will help loosen the pollen and you may get it to hose off after. If not, sheepskin mitt with two buckets and move it back/forth, up/down depending on the panels.

No matter what sealant says it repels static, pollen etc, it will not, but it will be easier to remove most pollen and other debris w/o too much effort as opposed to waxes.

Regards,
Deanski

Snoopy

Seems like that would work really well for dust/pollen.

Deanski

OK, to be quite honest, it'd not the best to wipe off pollen with.

California Duster contains paraffin wax that really is not a great product to use on a finish.

If you switched to a MF duster sold in some Wal-Marts/Target and other stores, your better off. For one thing, no wax additive. Second, you can mist it with a QD for pick-up. Third, it can be washed.

Dusters have to be used with care or you'll end up with marring. If it's a good amount of pollen, it's best to wash it off.

After washing, treat with Z8 and the finish will be as glossy and slick as hell. Keep this up, and less pollen will stick. Pollen if left on a finish in the sun can be more difficult to remove due to the sap and other elements in it. If after a wash doesn't get all of it, a ultra-fine clay will remove it.

Take your time, wash as much as possible until later in summer when there is less pollen. Then, if it's light you may be able to remove it w/o washing.

If you use wax, a good glaze will fill any marring from light scratches. If using a sealant, it's best to lightly polish out any defects.

Have a good day!

Regards,
Deanski

Pete Lech

Can anyone compare Wheel Wax to Rejex for use on wheels?

Deanski

Wheel Wax is mostly used for cleaning than protection. If it contains any caranuba, it will not protect due to the heat of the wheels when brakes are applied.

Rejex would be a better choice for protecting wheels.

Deanski

OCBen

A buddy of mine ordered two bottles of Rejex and gave me one so I could do a comparo against Klasse HGSG on the wheels to test for ease of brake dust removal.

First impressions:

Packaging: The plastic bottle appears to be a generic bottle with a flip top spout that you typically find on lotion dispensing products. The label appears cheaply produced, like something you'd find on an Amway product. It certainly doesn't have a slick looking label like the high volume retail products you see on the shelves of your favorite store. The most disappointing thing about the packaging was that there was no peel-away seal to keep the product from leaking out the spout like you typically find on similar products. In fact, the flip up spout was taped down with masking tape to keep the product from leaking out during shipment. This suggests to me that this product is not packaged in your typical manufacturing facility. It could very well be put together in someone's garage where they fill each bottle individually by hand. ... Not that there's anything wrong with that, so long as the product delivers on its promise, right? But I do think they shouldn't be so cheap and spring for some kind of seal besides masking tape around the spout.

Application: I applied it on 3 of the new S-Lite wheels I got for my Mini Cooper. The right front wheel (the fronts get more brake dust) I treated with Klasse AIO followed by HGSG. The application was real easy, like applying a thick white cream lotion. The smell was pleasant too. After a half hour of drying I wiped off the remaining residue with no difficulty at all. In fact, the product had already set a slick coating making removal of the residue effortless.

Results: The product definitely leaves behind a slippery coating, that's for sure. Reminds me of those teflon type coatings. It's also apparent from sunlight reflections off the surface that the surface indeed has a coating. I can easily tell that the optical characteristics are different from your typical waxes. Though the painted finish is left very, very shiny, the reflected light is nontheless scattered a bit. It might have something to do with the layer of the coating on a microscopic level not being precisely uniform throughout an application, with some areas having a thicker coating than others. This would explain the scattering of light I observed. It also has the unmistakable appearance that it definitely has a coating, difficult as that may be to describe.

The Rejex coated wheels are definitely slicker than the Klasse wheel. I was able to wipe off a light accumulation of brake dust with an old MF towel effortlessly. In fact, I believe I could probably blow off the dust with compressed air - I'll have to try that next time. But for now, I'll give it a week or so to fully evaluate the comparison of the two products for ease of brake dust removal. But so far I'm pleased with the results on my wheels.

Personally, I wouldn't use this product on my car's paint finish because of the optical distortions from this protective coating. I prefer to give my cars a showcar look and for that I use pure carnauba products such as my current favorite, Pinnacle Souveran.

It's for that reason that I probably wouldn't use Zaino products either because of their claim of coat buildup, which leads me to believe it also takes on a similar look as Rejex. Bottom line, if the coating is not precisely uniform for a product with a fixed index of refraction, reflected light will be scattered and depth of gloss will be compromised. That's my opinion and I'll sticking to it. (Flame suit on )

Deanski

I haven't used or tried Rejex, but as for Zaino, it's much more optically clear than other sealants. That's one reason a finish as to be near perfect for best results as it can magnify the bad issues. Z2-Pro is very clear for a sealant and not harsh looking. Some say that several sealants make the finish look like plastic-wrap. The old Zaino was like that until it was changed. Thank God for that!

Souveran.. Now THAT'S a damn fine wax for dark colors! I have several cans of the stuff for use on darker finishes that people want a deep, wet look wax. The only thing close to it was Natty Blue from Poorboys, very close and a whole lot cheaper. Souveran goes on nice and comes off easy. If anyone uses a glaze and has dark colored finish on their Porsch, this is the wax to use! Used as a top coat over a sealant and stand back as the finish will look as it's dripping wet. It does play well with most sealants, but some, Souveran will make it look muted. Anyway, a top coat of Souveran over sealants acts as a sacrificial layer. Also, most QD's work well with Souveran.

If you want to laugh at some waxes, read the description on Zymol Glasur wax for Porsche. What rock-hard finish? Maybe it's something new from Tequipment?

I really have to post a pic of the car now after trying the new Zaino Z5-Pro that has been released. Better hiding and deeper gloss.

Klasse AIO is great for wheels! Top it with the Klasse sealant and brake dust becomes a very quick clean-up. Lucky for me I don't have to worry about brake dust with the PCCB's, but still treat the wheels and calipers anyway.

Regards,
Deanski

OCBen

Yeah, Jim, that's kinda the look that Rejex leaves behind, a "plastic wrap" look.

It'll probably end up being my preferred treatment for wheels as it's definitely slicker than Klasse, that much I can tell right now. I hate brake dust clean up and this product does seem to deliver on making that chore easy. I'll have to give it a fair evaluation to determine lasting power, but for now I can definitely give it a thumbs up for use on wheels if anyone else is interested in that application!

Deanski

Yep, I'd just use it for wheels at this point. Nothing worse than seeing a finish looking as if it's wrapped in Saran Wrap! Ugh! I'll bet my Armorglove looks better than that!

Ah, maybe one time I'll break down and glaze then hit it with Souveran. I love that wax for black finishes! I have a few nice QD's for it including the Pinnacle one as well as others.

The things we do to make our cars look shiny huh?

Deanski

THPorsche

Do you need to apply the Rejex after each wash (for wheels)? I have one on order with Eric.

ohsixx

When using Rejex, I have found that soap is not actually necessay when washing.

Cogito

Ah Ben. IF your Rejex came from Eric (Bumperplugs) and I assume it did, I believe Eric is the one who tapes the tops of the bottles shut so they don't open and spill in shipping. Eric, chime in please in case I'm wrong. Sometimes we assume too much too quickly Ben and arrive at somewhat silly conclusions but as always, I value your reviews of the different products you test and share your views with us.
Here are your own words ....... "The most disappointing thing about the packaging was that there was no peel-away seal to keep the product from leaking out the spout like you typically find on similar products. In fact, the flip up spout was taped down with masking tape to keep the product from leaking out during shipment. This suggests to me that this product is not packaged in your typical manufacturing facility. It could very well be put together in someone's garage where they fill each bottle individually by hand. ... Not that there's anything wrong with that, so long as the product delivers on its promise, right? But I do think they shouldn't be so cheap and spring for some kind of seal besides masking tape around the spout. "